Clutch master cylinder removal
#1
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Clutch master cylinder removal
I've done a search and found no answer to this. What is the secret to removing the clutch master cylinder? My manual says "remove master cylinder positioning clip (refer to illustration #32)". There is no clip shown other than one holding the hydraulic line to the firewall. A positioning pin is shown, and there is one on my truck. I have tried to push it in - no luck. It's beveled, so there's no way to grasp it and pull is out. Later the direrctions are to turn the master cylinder 45 degrees counter-clock wise and remove it from the firewall. Either I'm in serious need of muscle building or there really is a positioning clip somewhere, because it won't move either counter-clockwise or clockwise. What have I missed?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Ron
Thanks in advance for your help.
Ron
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To remove master cylinder, There is a clip that holds the push rod on to the pedal. Its tough to figure out how it operates at first, but just try, itll come off. once it is disconnected, I think I got mine out from the engine side. I think I pushed in on it and turned it at the same time. that unlocked it. then pulled it right out on engine side.
Hope this helps. also unplug the clutch/safety start plug think
Hope this helps. also unplug the clutch/safety start plug think
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Thanks for the response. I did manage to get the push rod clip off, and you're right, it took a while to figure it out. Getting the clutch/saftey start plug out wasn't too bad. But getting the MC to turn 45 degrees just isn't happening.
#4
remove the master cylinder and bracket all together. i think on my 99 it was bolted to the firewall with three bolts. my new master cylinder had a bracket allready installed. the bleeding part is the fun part!
#5
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You may need to loosen the bracket holding the master cylinder to the firewall. I know the instructions say you don't need to remove it, but both times I've changed my hydraulics, I've pulled the bracket and master cylinder as a unit. It was too hard for me to get down there to make sure it was clocked right to get it installed without pulling the bracket.
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Im not sure what bracket people are talking about, there wasnt one on my 97, you just push in and turn and it unlocks and comes out. There may have been a design change from 97 to 98.5 and later.
#7
97s may be different im not sure. i now that my brothers late 98 12v is the same as mine. i used his master and slave assembly on my truck when i was having problems with my dual disk releasing. you remove the nuts from inside the cab and pull the mastercylinder and bracket together from the firewall inside the engine compartment. i got my new slave and mastercylinder from advance auto parts and the mastercyl. came with the new bracket already installed.
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Thanks for the suggestions and help. I finally decided to try getting a blade behind the locating pin to see if it pulled out instead of pushed in - it did. Once everything was out I found the hose was broken right behind the bottom ferrule, so decided to try cutting an inch off the line and replacing it. Couldn't. Just as well, the actuator rod was bent anyway, so I'm buying a replacement assembly. Should be here Thursday or Friday.
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