Broke Head Bolt HELP!!!
Broke Head Bolt HELP!!!
Broke a head bolt off in the fall when i was retorqing the head. Well it was fine untill now. It the very back left side head bolt and i just noticed smoke coming out of it now. So does this mean i need a new head gasket and HOw CAN I GET THE BROKEN BOLT OUT!!?!!!???! It broke probably flush with the block. PLEASE HELP!!!
Sounds good to me. I dont have much need for upgrades, the block is fireringed and the head is ported so looks like ill be out about $200 for a new gasket and firerings. and what a great time when im broke so bad .. ooh yeah ill need some new head bolts, i aint riskin it with the old bolts anymore. Is this the best way to get the bolt out? anybody else have any ideas? Thanks alot!!!
What worked for me when I broke a stud off was to hammer a deep well socket over the necked down part of the stud. It was broken off about 1" under the top surface of the head. I took the other end of the stud and found a socket that was just big enough to fit around the smallest diameter of the stud. Then I took a short extension and hammered it onto the piece of stud that was screwed into the block . . . then I very gently threaded it out.
Now, seeing how you left it for a while it may now thread out so easily. Good luck . . .
Now, seeing how you left it for a while it may now thread out so easily. Good luck . . .
This was a NEW bolt. Shop that did my head work broke it the day before me. Convinced me to go to studs.
If you use bolts or studs it very criticial to chase tap the block holes. A lot of carbon gets forced into the threads.
If you use bolts or studs it very criticial to chase tap the block holes. A lot of carbon gets forced into the threads.
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This is worth a try if you think the HG didnt let go and you have a stick welder.
Get a piece of pipe (1/4" IIRC) and slide it down the hole so its sitting on the broken bolt. Next with the welder off, slide a welding rod down the center of the pipe and have someone turn the welder on for a few seconds to arc the pipe to the remaning bolt. A pair of vice grips should be able to turn it out.
Get a piece of pipe (1/4" IIRC) and slide it down the hole so its sitting on the broken bolt. Next with the welder off, slide a welding rod down the center of the pipe and have someone turn the welder on for a few seconds to arc the pipe to the remaning bolt. A pair of vice grips should be able to turn it out.
The straight spline easy out is that the square type easy out? he ones that you drill a hole hammer the easy out in and then back it out? And i am asuming the HG is junk now since there was smoke coming out of the hole. The welding idea sounds pretty good too but i dunno im prolly gonna be removing the head. And if the question about boost was towards me i was only boosting around 52 pounds. Im not goin to put the money on studs b/c i know several people pushing 100 pounds of boost on stock head bolts with the block fire ringed. and also been told by the best that it works. Keating Shelley has done the fire ring work for e and says stock head bolts will hold. I just need to get good head bolts to start though. THANKS EVERYONE FOR THE INPUT!!!
The spline type , around except for the splines , the kit comes with drill bits , you match the size of bolt with close to the largest spline that will fit in bolt [ and not drill into threads ] , hammer spline in , then the 3rd part of kit , is nuts that fit over the spline , and give you a way to put either a socket or wrench around the nut .
I found these to be one of the best , because unlike many others , that are tapered , when you drive them into the hole of the bolt , the taper forces the bolt to be tighter .
I do not remember the brand , most all of the tool trucks have them , I got mine off the Snap On truck , about 25 yrs ago , I still see them on the tool trucks .
But 1st remove the head , it will make it easier to remove the broken bolt .
Now you ruined the hole thing , talking about excessive boost & not using studs , with the lame excuse of [ I know several people ] .
Its best to go with what the most recomend , not a few .
I have heard from some shops that do a lot of studs / O rings , that there is a popular brand of studs that are not as good as they should be .
Since I do not remember which brand was which , I do not want to mention , unless I knew for sure .
I found these to be one of the best , because unlike many others , that are tapered , when you drive them into the hole of the bolt , the taper forces the bolt to be tighter .
I do not remember the brand , most all of the tool trucks have them , I got mine off the Snap On truck , about 25 yrs ago , I still see them on the tool trucks .
But 1st remove the head , it will make it easier to remove the broken bolt .
Now you ruined the hole thing , talking about excessive boost & not using studs , with the lame excuse of [ I know several people ] .
Its best to go with what the most recomend , not a few .
I have heard from some shops that do a lot of studs / O rings , that there is a popular brand of studs that are not as good as they should be .
Since I do not remember which brand was which , I do not want to mention , unless I knew for sure .
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