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1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
Latest was adding the Amazon choice dynamite. I closed off the air vents using cascade vb-2.
3 stiffeners added. Both hinges rebuilt and added grease ftgs.
Nut plates on the glass stop. Soon new speaker and vb2 for the inner moisture barrier.
I'll work on it. The hinge modifications were really based on mysteryman s suggestions.
Pics. The lower stiffeners is attached for convenience w rivets. I'm not a good welder when the metal is 0.040 and 0.125. Lower hinge. Welded in thick wall steel. I think it was an id of 0.44 or 0.48 in. Welded, then bushings made from 630 bronze. I made them long 0.75 in. Flange is 0.062ish. It is magnetic. Hole was cleaned up with a drill a few thousands under 0.500. 0.500 in reamer. Pin is from a hinge kit. Zerk is std. Installed bushings with locktite. Plin needed some clearance for the zerk. You can see the zerk. The bushings in the kit were a little loose. Loctite 620 for bushings was used. To get access the drivers air duct has to come out. A short screw driver works. When the duct was out. I ground the rivets off the bracket and added #10 floating nut plates. This way i could install the bracket and put the an525 screws inside the duct. Easier.. but not a must. Upper hinge r&r wasn't horrible.
Michael You can see the upper stiffer is welded in. The lower is attached w cr3523-4-2 rivets. There is a shorter one vertical close to the speaker hole. These were both surface fay sealed. The ends were plugged with sealant and its 1/2 square tubing. Here's the inner dblr. I cut a wooden template and used a plasma cutter. Some local gave me a beat up door.. I cut a piece of the outer skin off to make the paper and wooden template.. test fit the metal one too.. Slots were plung cut on a mill. Lots of small plunges. Edges got some heavy flapper disc sanding to be radiused. I added this to the out skin. A piece to the lower fender and wheel well. Plan on vb-2 vspor barrier. Vb-2 covering vents. I did replace the regulator and motor. Im using wurth clear lubricant. Gear is greased w shell aero #3.
On the top of the door I use some self adhesive weatherstripping from Amazon. Same crossection attached to the a-pillar.
only thing left to decide is to oil the seam,, seam seal it or leave it as is.. new speakers.
On the list of many things I've been wanting to do for a long time, among them is to stiffen the inner door skins. In my experience working with the window regulators, motors, speakers, etc., I'm thinking I'll use some 1/2" flat bar to leave as much room as possible for future work. Figuring .125" thickness should do the trick.
I do like the idea of adding a stiffener along the bottom as well.
Can you explain or show more about the nut plates on the glass stop and the weatherstrip on the top of the door? I'm not following what you're getting at.
So I think you want to add stiffness. The lower stiffener is 1/2 rectangular tubing and I was still able to replace the regulator and install a infinity speaker. You get more bang for the lb or $ this way. You could plug weld instead.
These 2 lower stiffeners were more for stereo speaker, but they make it feel more solid too.
I'll add a picture of the weatherstripping.
I cannot understate how great it closes.. new nos latch and it has that nice popout when you pushing the door handle button.. the door closes with little pressure, but a thud.
so it installs on w #3 rivets. 0.098 which is a #40 drill. Ms21059 for example. You can do welded on or loose nuts.
there are 1 sided and corner ones also. Advantages are you don't have to be perfectly normal or the parts parallel to get them started. Huge help on the duct.
03-26-2021, 12:00 PM
