Hello all. I've been lurking for awhile and thought I may as well start typing. Seems like a pretty nice place.

I don't own a diesel yet but have been researching hauling for a living and an acquaintance turned me towards DTR. I know hauling isn't the first choice for a lot of people but I like driving and figure if I can make a few bucks at it (or at least break even) I should. I don't plan on getting rich doing this.

I've been checking around for 3500 CTD's and found quite a few that seem reasonably worn. How many miles is too many (even for a diesel) to start with? With a good 25'-30' trailer and a good weight rating I should do OK, right? Please say yes.

I don't know what to charge per mile or if difficulty (weight, shape, size of the cargo) should play into that. I know I have to make enough for the maintanance and fuel of the truck and enough for me to sleep reasonably comfortable. Plus food, gotta have food.

Is there a normal rate? Is there a simple way to find the operating costs before I hit the road? I'm just spitballing this for now and don't have any definate plans so any help will be appreciated.

And I'm not just here to spam myself into history, just have nothing else to post until I get a diesel.

 

Alright, how do I get the color text working?

 

Just pick your color.....like this

Or this

Even this color

 

You need to "close" the command by adding /color inside the [ ] at the end of the perfered text.



Welcome
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DieselTruckResource.com

 

Any Dodge 3500 built after 1994-5 or later should be plenty. I'd recommend a 12V dodge 97-98 with the manual trans. If you're hauling for a living, you need a manual trans.

The 97-98 12V Dodges are pretty cheap and can cheaply be turned up enough to tow whatever you seek. A 3K GSK, 10 plate, and a larger turbo/housing will give you a nice bump in HP.

You'll also want the 4.10 axle, which most 3500s have anyway.

Don't be concerned with mileage at all, as long as the truck had decent maintenance. Oil changes at regular intervals, quality (mopar or fleetguard) filters.

I'd be more worried about the rest of the truck than I would about the engine. You WILL want to fix the Killer Dowel Pin on any and all 12V CTDs and the early 24Vs.

A used, high-mileage CTD is one of the best deals in all of light trucking

Justin

 

First, thanks for the welcome guys.

I definately want a manual trans. I just prefer it anyway but I know that it's pretty much a necessity in hauling. See, I know some things.

What is the big diff between 12 and 24 valve models? Are the 12V superior in some way? Hope that doesn't start a fight.

"A 3K GSK, 10 plate"... Do what now? I've learned a few things lurking here but some terms still stump me. I there a glossary?

"Killer Dowel Pin"... Is that like the Killer Clowns from Outerspace? Where is this dowel you speak of? Engine? Body? Seat?

 

By the way, anyone know about the business side of hauling? That's where I'm gonna need more guidance. How much to charge, etc.

I really do appreciate the help guys.


edit: I forgot to ask, is there a big diff between single and dual rear wheels as far as towing rating? Just depends on towing package, etc? What about 4WD, I've heard that with 3500s it doesn't really affect anything like in a 1500.

 

The KDP is a locating pin for the front cover. Early models had enough room for the pin to work loose, fall out, and jam between the cover and the gears, breaking something. Some fell cleanly and harmlessly into the oil pan, but who wants to gamble? I have read that by drilling & tapping a hole in the correct place in the front cover, then inserting a machine screw through to hold the pin in place. I think the 3k gsk is a 300 rpm governor spring kit, not sure what it actually is for (I have an electronic controlled 24 valve), and the #10 plate is the fuel curve plate for the injection pump. This determines how much fuel and when for the engine.

The 12 valves are simple, easily modded designs, very strong, and easily maintained engines. The 24 valve engines were rated higher power stock, have electronics and computer controlled injection pumps, and more sensors, gizmos to go bad. Some argue that it has a better potential for power, others say it is just more likely to fail. The VP-44 injector pumps are picky about fuel and condition, and are coupled to a fairly unreliable electric lift pump for fuel supply. Twelve valve engines had an oil lubricated injection pump, while the VP-44 gets lubed only by the fuel going through it.

Welcome aboard. I have learned an incredible amount here in the short time I have been a member, and you will too!

 

Do a search for Hot shot

That should bring up quite a bit of info on towing for hire.

These should get you started

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...light=hot+shot

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...light=hot+shot

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...light=hot+shot

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...light=hot+shot

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...light=hot+shot

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...light=hot+shot