My truck is a "Texas truck" - had a welded in gooseneck hitch on it when I bought it.

I would like to use it eventually and want to know if it's "safe". I don't know anything about weld in hitches - my last one was a B&W bolt on.

Basically it a 1/4" C channel (it's a bit thicker than 1/4" but at the welds it is only 1/4") welded to the top of the frame rail on the driver and passenger side.

Inside of the large C-channel there is a smaller one also 1/4" thick welded to it upside down. The ball goes through both C channels.

Here's a picture of it.
http://www.jctransport.com/gallery/01dodge/DSCN0420

Note the inner c-channel is only welded on the outsides, not all the way across.

 

I would imagine it has pulled some good loads before, but to me, I would want to beef it up a little. Look at the weld on the right, the main "C". Penetration looks to be a little slim to me.

Now, mine is welded in also. It has a plate welded to C channel and then the "C" is welded to the frame. Difference is, my "C" runs on top of the frame parallel.

If I was you, I'd have a good welder if you do not know how, add some gussets on the ouside of the "C". That's just the "farmers eye", but bet you get a good answer from an expert pretty soon.

Ed

 

I'm know expert but I was told only to weld parallel with the frame never across, because it will crack. I didnt install mine but it is 2 channels acroos the frame about 1 foot apart with a 1/4'' peice of flat welded in the ends of the c channel, then welded paralel with the frame, and a 3/4'' plate on top of that. I would trust it to pull anything the truck can move. Wish I had a picture. yours would make me nervous being that the top of the ball is probably taller then the c channel is wide ,thinking it would twist alot. Hope I could help.

Jed

 

thats pretty normal for a lot of trucks down here had similar set up on my other 98. it would haul a lot more weight on it then you'll put on that 3/4 ton.

 

Bein a welders son...

Looks like it will work ok, HOWEVER it wasnt done the way it should be done, cover that empty area with a welded plate and weld on the chassis... going with it, not across it, due to it being prone to breaking... and you have four weaker less holding welds on there... i dont trust anyone elses gooseneck hitches but my fathers.. They wouldnt be bringing cummins diesels with 5 miles on the odometer if he didnt know what he was doin, weld on or bolt on... it dont matter.. unfortunately mine came with it already on it, and its the same scenario as yours... ive pulled 12 cows with it and a backhoe.. but mind u I prayed it wouldnt break.... I dont want it to be worked on no more, due to overheating the chassis and possible breakage from more heat.. so i grin and bear it... not proudly though....

NOTICE.. all the bumpers and accessories on my truck (pease see pics)MY DAD DIDNT DO THEM... they work, but arent his quality work.....

Tx

 

I should not really comment on this one because I am so negative. I have seen a bunch set up that way as was said it is done regularly. But I would cut it off and get a safe hitch on it. It ever breaks you will be holding the court bag. DOT would never pass it. As another mentioned, plate it on the ends with good welds to both the frame and the channel I guess would hold it, but I would never pull with it. I don't under any circumstances weld to a frame, especially the flanges. I did have a frame break clean off from others work before I purhased that truck.

 

Maybe I will cut it off and get a B&W - That way I can put in a 5th or GN and switch between the two as necessary.

If you don't weld to the frame then what exactly do you do?

Which part is the "flange" of the frame? (the top?)

Thanks for the replies. I want to be safe which is why I'm asking.

 

If you take a close look at the sides of the frame over the axle you will find a depression about 10 inches long that will fit a piece of 2 inch angle iron to the frame. Three holes drilled there with angle iron on each side of the frame with the angle iron flange towards the outside of the truck, and a plate bolted across the top of the frame and bolted to the angle iron is a standard method of bolting a goose neck hitch to the frame. If you purchase a commercially made hitch it will have instructions to drill and bolt it on.

You are not supposed to drill or weld on the frame flanges, that is the part at the top of the frame and the bottom. Good practice says that holes can be drilled in the sides of the frame generally staying an inch or two from the flanges. I have close to 300,000 on mine pulling my gross loads with the plate type of gooseneck hitch. The plate was $40 and the angle iron scrap.

 

If you chose to remove it..

Just dont torch it... u might heat or warp the chassis, or take it to a professional to do... Just wish u were in Tx, id hook u up with the man to do this.... Yes im proud to say he is my father!!

Tx

 

So basically the plate would be 2" longer on each side than the distance across the frame rails so that the angle iron could bolt to it?

What did you use -- 1/2" plate?

What about angle iron thickness?

I am thinking about getting one of these:


Rated to 32,000 / 8,000 pin weight. Don't want to play around with my hitch.

 

i made my own,and used 3/8 x 3'' angle and 3/4 plate with 5/8 grade 8 bolts.3 bolts on the frame on each side and 3 bolts on the angle to plate on each side.also used a ball rated for 40,000 lb's.also put a 2ft. x 6inch 3/8 piece of plate on top of the 3/4 plate and centered it then stich welded it,ball goes threw both plates.

 

Alright.

Got my hitch:
http://xj.cdevco.net/auto/nobed/DSCN0640.JPG

It is a 32,000 lbs Holland head that supports 8000 lbs of pin weight

Ordered up a 3/4" plate 8 long and 43" wide.

I will have to figure out a way to raise this up about 6" to get a 42" pin height. My frame rails are about 31".

Thinking about structural tubing Grade 8 bolted to the base of the hitch as well as the 3/4" plate.