csramsey640

I am looking for a budget GN hitch. Will just the flat plate, roughly 46" wide, etc with a ball work? or will I need an additional reinforcement kit? I dont plan to haul over say 15k

Thanks

Patrick Campbell

Yes this will work. I am not sure about 91 truck but 2nd gens have an indent on the side of the frame for this.

Here's some info on mine:
http://xj.cdevco.net/auto/hitch

Only thing I would say is go bigger on the bolts and thicker on the plate) than I did because the extra few bucks and few pounds are worth your peace of mind).

RAMRODD

go to a good welding shop get a 1 in 16 wide plate of steel long enough to go from the outside of the frame rails about 2 in over on each side. weld a piece of 1/4 in flat iron to the 1 in plate drill through the side plate and frame and bolt make sure the plate is tight under the floor bed. get the 30,000 Ball after all you are running a cummins! (smaller ***** ok for duramax and powerstroke)

I put the ball at least 4 in infront of axiel center

Have the welding shop drill the hole for the ball
Drill 1 hole on each side of the ball so you can screw in some hooks for saftey chains
I welded 2 angle iron under the plate for added strength
If you have a welding shop do the whole thing where I live it runs about $375

ncmech

RAMRODD, I paid $350 total for my B&W turnover ball hitch and the installation was no big deal. Now I can have a smooth flush bed inside the truck whenever I don't need the ball hitch....and for $25 less than you suggest. I would recommend csramsey640 go this route and he'll be happier. My wife's chev has a steel plate and bolt heads sticking up inside the bed (the ball does pivot down to be recessed) but that stuff sticking above the bed deck is a PITA.

Patrick Campbell

1/4" flat iron? can you describe? I used 3/8" angle iron bolted underneath plate, and bolted to the side of the frame rail to secure the plate to the frame.

This isn't pretty and yes everything should be bigger than it is (next time)

Tiny

If you shop around the B&W turnover ball can be had for about $325, and it is rated to 30K lbs. A good hitch is an investment, not a liability. You do not want to lose a GN trailer, it could be devastating. FWIW.

bulabula

If you look closely at one of Patrick's pictures, there is a "USS New Jersey" inscription on his truck...

He nees larger tires to haul around all that armor back there...

Herrin811

I've been kicking around an idea for my GN...A friend has a C channel plate in his Superduty...His however is welded to the top of the frame...I dont want to weld my frame, so :

I was thinking about acquiring some C channel, about 8" wide, and 2" tall.....This would sit on top of the frame rails...Then on each end would be 3/8" plate welded to the C channel...I would drill and bolt the end plates to the frame....Underneath the C channel would be some gussets welded up to prevent flex, and the nut for the ball, so the ball could be removable....I've also thought of welding 2 pieces of C chnnel together to make a box beam...Cody hitches are exactly that....I have free access to the steel I need, and some fantastic welders to make it happen....

My only question remaining is, do I use gusseted C channel, or the box beam??

RAMRODD

The flat iron I mentioned in my earlier post. goes vertical on the frame up against the 1 in iron plat and is welded all the way across (Not welded to frame) I drill 4 holes in the flat iron threw the frame and bolt. The $375 was an dealer installed price. They want $500 for a turnover installed.

I don't go with a turnover because I am always pulling something and I really never use my box for anything, so the fact it sticks up to me doesn't matter.
I feel the system I use is superior in strength and ball is easily replaceable.
***** do wear out. I replace mine at 40,000 pulling miles. I have seen the trailer hitch ( the socket where the ball locks into wearout and the trailer fall into truck bed. Trailer did have over 200,000.

willd

I hear alot of people reluctant(sp) to weld their hitches to their truck, is there something I'm missin or would it not be heavier duty to weld it? Thanks guys!

P Kennedy

The frame rails of a truck are not standard mild steel if the welder does not use proper welding techniques and stress relieving procedures the frame will crystalize on either side of the weld and crack. A truck frame flexes all the time and a bolted hitch installed properly allow the whole unit to flex without stressing any specific part of the frame. Patrick Cambells is mounted properly with the frame depressions provided, 1/4" angle is too light 3/8" is better even though some of the hitch kits only use the lighter L brackets. I prefer a different system where the brackets (1/2") go straight up to the bottom of the box (if you have one) with a 3" X 1/2" piece of strapping as the hitch pad. I weld a nut to the 4 mounting points so when the hitch is out (ball plate or 5th wheel) all that is in the box is 4-3/4" bolt heads sticking up. The strapping is welded to the uprights and becomes permanent unless the box is taken off and adds support for any weight put in the tinfoil box floor. The Binkly 32K hitch in Patricks pictures is one of the most economical, reliable and user friendly hitches available. Patrick weld a flat tab under the 5th wheel engagement bar pocket on your mounting plate and weld a bolt head/nut onto it then weld a bolt head/nut to the hitch actuator structure on the bottom side, place a spring of appropriate size between the 2 and it will always be tilted the right way to hook up. Make sure the spring has loose enough raps to collapse down in the forward tilt position. PK

Herrin811

My GN is almost finished

No pix But here goes:

TOP PLATE: 6" structural channel 2" tall, 43.25" long
UNDERSIDE: 1/2" plate welded to channel in center under ball, with angle iron welded on plate to secure nut, then 4" structural channel spanning between angle iron and end plates
END PLATES: 1/2" plate machined and welded to inside of channel, drilled for 5/8" bolts to secure to frame...

The guy who did the welding (Dad )is certified for pressure vessels

Fits over the frame like a saddle, bolted to the frame, not welded


This thing must weigh 90lbs or more...Its tough Ill try to get some pix

DmaxEter

Great informative thread here guys.
My only problem with it all is, What about us guys with third gens with tubular frames? We are destined to have to buy a hitch or weld on the frame.
What can you guys suggest for me. I love to fabricate and am pretty good at it if do say so myself

BearKiller

Whether the welder knows what he is doing, or not, the main reason I prefer not to weld a plate is that a weld can crack, un-detected, and give way with no prior warning.

Bolts can be seen, and are more likely to be inspected on occasion.

If a nut vibrates off, the rest will hold until the problem is seen and addressed.

Sometimes, a fatigued weld is hard to detect.

98Ram25004x4

I agree the turnover would be my vote. I installed myself, was no big deal. I was impressed with the fit & finish & detailed instructions that were right on.
I agree that a custom set up can be made. However once you get up to close to the same price why go through the hassle & still not have full use of your bed when not pulling?