We have a small TT (Nash 19B) that we purchased last spring. At the time, I was pulling it with my old 1996 Chevy. We purchased our Cummins basically to pull this relatively small and lightweight trailer at decent speeds and decent mileage.

When using our old Chevy, the trailer was level for pulling when it was hitched to the ball on the truck. Now, with our taller Dodge, the trailer isn't even close to being level. I won't even pull it out of the driveway because it's so uneven. While towing behind the Chevy, I came close to draggin the rear of the trailer a couple of times and I've been wanting to swap the leaf springs on the axle from underneath (where they are currently located) to over. I estimate this would give me about 4" of lift thereby killing two birds with one stone: extra ground clearance for the trailer and having a level trailer while towing.

I know this is a fairly common procedure and I'm wondering if someone here on this forum has gone thru this procedure themselves and, if so, if they wouldn't mind sharing some advice, wisdom and perferably some very detailed instructions.

Thanks for any help.

 

Idaho Guy,

I'm was basically in the same situation, we sold our chevy and trailer and bought a cummins and newer trailer. I was concidering flipping the axles, but my TT sits at a good height and flipping them woul make it harder for my daughter to get in and out. So I bought the adjustable Equal-i-zer hitch.

Sorry about the story.

Down here in Twin Falls there is a dealer that will do it for $150.00. I'm ok with turning wrenches but for that price it would have been a no brainer.

I would have done it if I hadn't have bought the hitch, it shouldn't be too big a job to do by your self if you have enough jack stands to make things safe. That is where I would have come up short (saftey).

If you want the name and number let me know.

You might want to check with some of the RV places and see if they can do it for a reasonalbe price.

Good luck

 

Thanks for the info, dctoner.

I have called around the Boise area and one of the local shops can do it for about $200 (some of ther others wanted as high as $500!). They admitted that it's quite an easy job to do - just a little labor intensive. I figured I would be able to do it myself as I have the necessary tools and jack stands. But I'm leaning toward letting the shop do it for $200 as it would only take them an afternoon and it would probably take me a day or two since I've never done it. But if it was a really easy thing to do and I had detailed instructions - well, $200 saved would be nice!

 

Is the trailer a 5th wheel or bumper pull? Doesn't make sense to flip axles on a bumper pull. Using a drop hitch would solve that problem. If its a 5th wheel hitch, can you take out the extra blocks in the rear suspension to lower your truck?

-CM

 

My trailer is a bumper pull. I realize a drop hitch would solve the problem but, like I said, I've come close to dragging the rear of the trailer a couple of times (where the sewage lines are located) when driving on some of the moutain roads around here. 4 more inches of clearance would prevent this from happening again.

 

Heres what you need: new U bolts, axle saddles, and a welder. Cut the old U bolts and remove the brake backing plate on one side as well as the wiring on both sides. Slide the axle out throught the springs and install the new saddles 180 degrees from the original ones, the old ones can stay on. Slide the axle under the springs and attach with the new U bolts. Replace the backing plate and rewire. Just make sure the axles remain in the same orientation as original as they are arched to give you toe in and they are sprung for weight. Depending on their length, you may need to remove the center bolts on the springs to accomedate the new saddles on the bottom of the springs. Reinstall your wheels and Bobs your uncle, your in buisness.

 

Idaho Guy,

I found this thread on flipping Axles, check it out it has some good info.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ght=flip+axles

 

I just did this last month to my bumper pull trailer. I wanted to use a WD hitch and the amount of drop was going to be INSANE to make the trailer level. I was looking at two options to solve my problem:
1) Cut the tongue off the trailer about 12" or so in front of the deck and "stack" a new tongue and coupler onto it to raise the coupler.

2) Swap the trailer axles from SUA to SOA.

Option #2 was the easiest and is also easily reversible in case I want to sell the trailer to someone who needs the lower configuration.

I cut the wires to the brakes (frame to axle connection on one side), cut the old u-bolts, removed the spring hanger bolt at the fixed end of the springs and rolled the axles out from under the trailer. I bought new spring perches ($3 ea.) and new u-bolts ($7/pair) from the local trailer shop, welded the new perches on 180° from the old ones, reattached the free end of the springs, rolled the axles under the trailer and bolted them on. Then reattached the brake wires. It took me a couple hours a night for two nights after work. Total $$$ invested = $40. I could have easily done it in a morning or an afternoon on the weekend, but I did it after work during the week instead. Net gain in height is 4 5/8".

 

I don't have a welder so it looks like I'm stuck taking it to the local shop - they quoted me $200 so that sounds like a fair price since that seems to be what some of the other fellas here are reporting. I did get a quote for as much as $475 to do that job - yikes!

 

If you have Dexter axles, they actually sell a kit to do an sua to soa swap.

 

Where on the axle is the manufacturer stamped?

 

Usually there is a stamped metal band that is attached around the axle. Common manufacturers in this part of the world are Dexter, Hayes and Al-Ko. Hayes and Al-Ko have recently merged. Although I would have some measure of comfort in a factory kit, the reality is that it includes the very items that freddy2pipes described. If the outside diamater of the axle tube matches the outside diamater of a similarly rated Dexter axle, I would bet that the Dexter kit would work. Most trailer axles are either 3,500 pound or 5,200 pound designs. Dexter uses a 2-3/8" diameter tube on 3,500 pound axles (these axles also have 10" diameter brakes) and they use a 3" diameter tube on 5,200 pound axles (these axles have 12" diameter brakes). It is likely that your trailer is on 3,500 pound axles. If your VIN tag indicates GAWR it will give you a good indication, some tire combinations would cause your GAWR to be less than 3,500 pounds but never more. The Dexter over to under kit for 3,500 pound axles is part # K71-384-00.

Go to page 26 in the PDF file that this link should take you to: http://i.b5z.net/i/u/1080235/f/Kit_Catalog_8_01.pdf

The Dexter distributor for Idaho is Redneck Trailer Supplies in Caldwell. (208) 459-8375

Good luck.