body lift kit and gooseneck/FW
body lift kit and gooseneck/FW
I recentallty bought a 1997 F250 and noticed it has a body lift of 3 inches. It also has a what I was told reese bars bolted to the bed for a goose neck or FW. Those bars do not appear to be attached to the frame. Is that right? I don't plan on using them anytime soon so its not a huge issue just wanted to learn more about them and how they are supposed to be mounted.
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From: misplaced Idahoan stuck in Albuquerque, Roughneckin on RIG 270
it would become a huge issue if you hooked up to it with nothing tying the top bars to the frame. a train wreck waiting to happen (IMHO).
Are you talking about a set of these? And they are only bolted to the bed?
http://www.etrailer.com/Fifth-Wheel-...e/RP58058.html
http://www.etrailer.com/Fifth-Wheel-...e/RP58058.html
if what you have looks like what 1-2-3 posted, then there WILL be serious issues. those rails are supposed to get mounted to L shaped brackets for universal installation, or custom fit brackets that are made special to fit your truck. not a bad job to do at all, but it might be tricky with the body lift that you explained.
if i remember correctly, when i put the rails on my 2nd gen, there was probably enough room to still reach the frame with 3" lift, but i dont know for sure how that would work with a ford. i would think that the custom brackets wouldnt work with the body lift, and the L brackets would probably only be long enough for 1 bolt to the brame on each bracket (i went with 2 because there was room) but thats your preference. the installation instructions only called for one bolt per bracket in the frame.
hope this helps
if i remember correctly, when i put the rails on my 2nd gen, there was probably enough room to still reach the frame with 3" lift, but i dont know for sure how that would work with a ford. i would think that the custom brackets wouldnt work with the body lift, and the L brackets would probably only be long enough for 1 bolt to the brame on each bracket (i went with 2 because there was room) but thats your preference. the installation instructions only called for one bolt per bracket in the frame.
hope this helps
Yes just like 1-2-3 posted. I kind of figured it should be attached to the frame and after realizing the body lift was done I started think about if those bar were attached to the frame. Like I said no plans to use them as of now. I just wanted to verify something was wrong. I have all the equipment to fab up a spacer if needed. Is this set up worth making work or should I go B&W turn over if i move into the GN or FW trailers?
I just installed a B&W on my 2011 and unless B&W make side brackets that are taller to accommodate a lift, there is no way that a B&W would fit. I wouldn't leave the rails in place as they are, if someone other than yourself were to use your truck they could use the rails not realizing they are booby trapped.
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x2 on the B&W wont fit, but it wouldnt be a bad idea to call them and see if they have the taller brackets for the lift. the rails arent bad, just depends on preference. if you already have them, id use em. a GN hitch will be easier to put in as they are a lot less bulky than a 5er hitch. when i had rails in my 2nd gen, i used to pull the pins while it was still hooked to the trailer, and use the jacks to lift it out of the rails while it was still attached to the king pin. they usually go into the rails hard, i always used to carry a 2lbs hammer and tap em down.
if you dont mind taking the body lift out, the B&W is a great set up, and you will not be disappointed! then it can be paired with the companion hitch for the 5er's.
hope this helps
if you dont mind taking the body lift out, the B&W is a great set up, and you will not be disappointed! then it can be paired with the companion hitch for the 5er's.
hope this helps
Just a heads up, I haven't used my B&W companion yet and and I already regret buying it. The gooseneck part is great but the companion is...well a pain in the but. I didn't realize the companion has to be torqued down tight against the locking pin then the 2 U bolts torqued so 5 things need to be torqued and if you go by the book the 4 self locking nuts should really be changed EVERY time. With it torqued against the pin you can't pull the release. I went to pick some sheet aluminum up yesterday and both trucks had the 5ver hitches in them. I wanted to use the 2011 but it would have taken too long to take the hitch out then put it back in. I popped the 4 pins in the DSP hitch and slid it back then lifted it out in one piece.After returning and unloading I just lifted the hitch onto the tailgate and slid it forward into the rails and locked the 4 pins in again. The DSP is a piece of cake compared to the B&W companion. Thing is with the B&W gooseneck hitch in there I don't think I can now install the DSP. Does everyone torque the top bolt down every time? If not then it is somewhat useable... Very disappointed!!!
Just to reopen this. I checked out the truck good and it does have the L brackets and square tube spacers attaching it to the frame. The whole thing looks like a hack job though. The L brackets are welded to the frame and the square tubing is just a little thinner than I would like to see. How does everyone feel about welding vs bolting these L brackets? The welds are not to my liking and I can clean them and reweld them to the frame or am I better to just drill and bolt them on?
Just to reopen this. I checked out the truck good and it does have the L brackets and square tube spacers attaching it to the frame. The whole thing looks like a hack job though. The L brackets are welded to the frame and the square tubing is just a little thinner than I would like to see. How does everyone feel about welding vs bolting these L brackets? The welds are not to my liking and I can clean them and reweld them to the frame or am I better to just drill and bolt them on?
if you are more comfortable welding, go for it. but if you would like to switch them to a different truck at a later point, it would be easier with bolts for sure!
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