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Removing the body lift kit.

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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 09:01 PM
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From: Buies Creek, NC
Question Removing the body lift kit.

I guess it'd be fair to say that when I bought my heap, big monster-mudder trucks were the thing. Though conservative, I followed that trend I guess to include the typical show-bar with lights, big tires, and at least a body lift. I didn't want to have the body seams at the bottom of the front grill nor the mess under the tail-gate showing, so instead of the standard 2" or 3" kit, I made my own 1.5" kit (it gave me something to do that weekend, work with me ). Couldn't afford much more and knew squat about a diesel.

That was then.


Yeah well I still can't afford much and now know enough about a diesel to toast one I guess.


This Christmas Holiday, I'm gonna take the body lift off. Finding you guys and this forum has giving me much better direction. My mess runs better and my interest has shifted more toward a stop light drag racer (at the strip of course ).


My point here is to ask: What am I forgetting?

I'm gonna replace the OEM body rubber mounts with new OEM pieces and return the body mounts to the original configuration.

With that I need to remember to ~

* Re-adjust the column shifter linkage.
* Re-adjust the 4X4 shifter boot.
* Keep an eye on the two brake line coils just below the master cylinder.
* Keep an eye on the turbo down-pipe and HVAC box.
* Reset all the turbo-charger ducting including completing the transition to all 3" pipe.
* Reset both radiator lines.
* Check trans cooler plumbing.
* Check the AC refrigerant plumbing.
* Check the trans and engine oil dip-sticks.
* Check tire clearance up front (running LT305/70R16, it's gonna be close!).
* Check steering shaft (I switched to the borguson (sp?) shaft a long time ago and stuck with stock length so I should be good there).
* Check fuel tank fill and vent tubing.
* Eventually remake a fan shroud.


What am I forgetting?
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 12:21 AM
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Ususally the radiator is lowered when the body is lifted... buy you said that you need to remake a fan shroud...so i am guessing you never did that and just removed the fan shroud?

In my experience, fan shrouds are a really big deal to make sure the fan pulls enough air . I would make that a priority.... but not really big deal this time of year.
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 09:25 AM
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From: SW Pennsylvania - Greene County
Originally Posted by BC847
I made my own 1.5" kit (it gave me something to do that weekend, work with me ). Couldn't afford much more and knew squat about a diesel.
Strange, I was thinking about doing the same thing. What did you use for material? Size & type?

Remember to check you wiring harness so it doesn't rub though and come in contact with the body and frame due to the new slack it may now have.
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 03:39 PM
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I ran one for 2 years without a shroud and had no problems, even towing 5 tons of hay in the summer time. Got warm but never HOT.

It seems to me the exhaust and a couple other things you listed wouldnt be that critical. Good idea to watch out just in case, but not critical. I admit I have no experience with lifts, but you are removing a 1.5" lift, and the rad hoses, AC lines, etc, are flexible enough that they should just bend out of the way to allow you to swap mounting hardware as needed. Exhaust doesnt attach to anything in the body, so it should be fine, unless you get an angle and put it in danger of being crunched.

Daniel
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 06:30 PM
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Thumbs up Thanks Folks!

Originally Posted by Diesel Junkie
Usually the radiator is lowered when the body is lifted... buy you said that you need to remake a fan shroud...so i am guessing you never did that and just removed the fan shroud?

In my experience, fan shrouds are a really big deal to make sure the fan pulls enough air . I would make that a priority.... but not really big deal this time of year.
With my '93 1st Gen CTD, the radiator is essentially attached to the body albeit by way of the front bulkhead. With that, the engine is the only thing moving as it were.

My lifting the body only 1.5" had me fabricate all sheet metal in question. I was able to turn the shroud up side down, and have the now bottom of the shroud mate perfectly with the bottom of the radiator. I made the top out of 1/8" aluminum sheet stock. Regretfully though, the shroud's broken beyond use. No problem though, I agree the shroud is a must. I'll just make another.

Originally Posted by Trebor
Strange, I was thinking about doing the same thing. What did you use for material? Size & type?
If memory serves me correctly, I bought a couple of feet of 3" diameter "Delrin" stock (some weird plastic that's UV resistant, etc) from a local plastic supply house. I cut it into 1.5" pucks with a table saw and drilled the bolt hole in a drill press. It was easy. I got bolts that were 1.5" longer than OEM and installed the pucks on top of the OEM rubber puck. That allowed me to keep the OEM ride quality if you want to call it that.



I appreciate the input folks. I've no doubt the job will go smoothly. I'm just trying to reduce the number of "Oh Crap!" trips to the parts house.
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Old Dec 24, 2006 | 09:32 AM
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Well, . . . . . let's get on with it.

Step 1 ~ find something to catch the antifreeze . . . . .
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