Body Lift or No Body Lift. My current dilema on my crewcab.
Body Lift or No Body Lift. My current dilemma on my crewcab.
I set the cab on my frame today. As expected, the back of the cab sat right on that dad-blamed hump on the top of the ctd fuel tank.

I am tempted to chop on the cab so I can get it to sit down on the isolators. It is sitting less than an inch high. I am worried about the structural integrity of the cab if I do this. This portion of the cab is boxed, I assume, for rigidity.
On the other hand, If I raise the cab up, as seen below, with 1 1/2 inch blocks everything is cool. Even without the blocks, there is plenty of room in the tunnel to accomodate the nv4500 and the 203.

Opinions please. Should I just get or build a body lift and stop fretting it, or should I start hacking and get the body sitting down where it belongs? My Ramcharger conversion had a 1.5 inch body lift, only because the truck had it before I started. Help me out. Are there any strong arguments agaist the body lift? Thanks. Eric
I am tempted to chop on the cab so I can get it to sit down on the isolators. It is sitting less than an inch high. I am worried about the structural integrity of the cab if I do this. This portion of the cab is boxed, I assume, for rigidity.
On the other hand, If I raise the cab up, as seen below, with 1 1/2 inch blocks everything is cool. Even without the blocks, there is plenty of room in the tunnel to accomodate the nv4500 and the 203.
Opinions please. Should I just get or build a body lift and stop fretting it, or should I start hacking and get the body sitting down where it belongs? My Ramcharger conversion had a 1.5 inch body lift, only because the truck had it before I started. Help me out. Are there any strong arguments agaist the body lift? Thanks. Eric
hmmm interesting dilemmna
1. Could you possibly move the fuel tank around, fwd or back? I can't remember what the frame looks like in that area ...
2. Normally not a fan of body lifts, but...
A. it's only 1.5"
B. I'm much more adverse to chomping a perfectly good cab ...
so the lesser of the two evils in this case is the body lift ... IMHO
1. Could you possibly move the fuel tank around, fwd or back? I can't remember what the frame looks like in that area ...
2. Normally not a fan of body lifts, but...
A. it's only 1.5"
B. I'm much more adverse to chomping a perfectly good cab ...
so the lesser of the two evils in this case is the body lift ... IMHO
Hey Trooper..............I had the same issue and I just notched that area of the cab. Its not going to hurt anything or weaken the area. Just cut out enough for it to clear and reweld the area.
I'd probably just go with the blocks.
Back in the good ol' days when I lived in AK, we just used Hockey Pucks....they're about 1.5 inches.
People say it's dangerous though...we never had any problems.
Back in the good ol' days when I lived in AK, we just used Hockey Pucks....they're about 1.5 inches.

People say it's dangerous though...we never had any problems.
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Instead of body lift move the frame mount's up ? as for body lift they work Great had a 3 in on my other crewcab it did not have body roll or anything and even after a rollover The only thing I had to replace was 2 bed bolt's
I wouldn't cut that main brace on the bottom side of the cab. I would use the small body lift.
Look over where the cab mounts down. Check it closely for cracks. I have had to repair many CC's of that vintage that the mounts had broken out of the cab.
Look over where the cab mounts down. Check it closely for cracks. I have had to repair many CC's of that vintage that the mounts had broken out of the cab.
You could place a piece of rectangular tubing between the cab and tank top. Then under the tubing using a heat gun heat the tank evenly and let the weight of the cab push down on the bulge and tubing. Make sure the tank is clean and washed and leave the fuel pick up assembly loosely in place to prevent distortion of the threaded area. I think this has been done before?
Move the tank or do a body lift. Those trucks look so low cuz their so long anyway. I don't know how 1.5" would cause a rollover, just don't drive it around corners like it's a corvette. If you don't like it, in theory, you could take it out, and do something different. Once you cut the cab, you can't press the reset button. lol
hmmm interesting dilemmna
1. Could you possibly move the fuel tank around, fwd or back? I can't remember what the frame looks like in that area ...
2. Normally not a fan of body lifts, but...
A. it's only 1.5"
B. I'm much more adverse to chomping a perfectly good cab ...
so the lesser of the two evils in this case is the body lift ... IMHO
1. Could you possibly move the fuel tank around, fwd or back? I can't remember what the frame looks like in that area ...
2. Normally not a fan of body lifts, but...
A. it's only 1.5"
B. I'm much more adverse to chomping a perfectly good cab ...
so the lesser of the two evils in this case is the body lift ... IMHO
I have been thinking about lowereing the tank. That would involve longer straps and some kind of spacer between the top and cross members. It would also drop it farther below the frame.
Thanks for the input.


