Body Lift or No Body Lift. My current dilema on my crewcab.
I should have been multi-quoting all along.
Are you talking about the cab or frame. I did have to repair the frame. You can see the washers I welded on in the pics. I have not checked the bottom of the cab, Thanks.
My original cc had a cab tank and with the 440 it wouldn't get me 200 miles. I added a gasser tank to this area, but it was only 19 or 20 gallons. I like big tanks, So I really wanted the diesel tank in there.
I like this idea. I thought about cutting and trying some kind of plastic welding to modify the tank, but that seemed kind of hinky. I think I will try this, I have one or two extra tanks in case i mess it up.
Reset button...ctms. (chuckling to myself silently)
Got one of those, too. I like lots of fuel. Cash my paycheck at the fillin' station. Drive all the time. These are hard times. Never know when you may need to go 1200 miles without a fill-up...
My original cc had a cab tank and with the 440 it wouldn't get me 200 miles. I added a gasser tank to this area, but it was only 19 or 20 gallons. I like big tanks, So I really wanted the diesel tank in there.
You could place a piece of rectangular tubing between the cab and tank top. Then under the tubing using a heat gun heat the tank evenly and let the weight of the cab push down on the bulge and tubing. Make sure the tank is clean and washed and leave the fuel pick up assembly loosely in place to prevent distortion of the threaded area. I think this has been done before?
Move the tank or do a body lift. Those trucks look so low cuz their so long anyway. I don't know how 1.5" would cause a rollover, just don't drive it around corners like it's a corvette. If you don't like it, in theory, you could take it out, and do something different. Once you cut the cab, you can't press the reset button. lol
Could you not use a short bed half ton tank and brackets from the same years as your diesel tank, and use the diesel insert?
(Like here: http://ramchargercentral.com/rcs-tds...27/#msg1602027)
(Like here: http://ramchargercentral.com/rcs-tds...27/#msg1602027)
You could place a piece of rectangular tubing between the cab and tank top. Then under the tubing using a heat gun heat the tank evenly and let the weight of the cab push down on the bulge and tubing. Make sure the tank is clean and washed and leave the fuel pick up assembly loosely in place to prevent distortion of the threaded area. I think this has been done before?
Yes it has...can't recall which crewcab thread it was in but if I find it I'll post it up. This would be your easiest route.
That's how I think of anything. lol I had a high school shop teacher who hated video games, and gave the kids crap, cuz when you screw up the game you just press reset. Some kid would cut something too short, ask him what to do, and he'd say, "Well you can't press the reset button." lol
after mulling this over the last few days, I realized I had a 1.5 inch body lift in my cummins ramcharger and it did not need to be there any more because I performed surgery on the back of the front fenders last summer. It als just so happens that I pulled the rc into the shop yesterday and yanked the dana 60 out of the front to swap the 3:54s for 4:10s. Sooooo, today i pulled all the body mount bolts, loosened up the adjuster on the tranny shifter and slipped the spacers out from under it. I put them under the crew cab and the clearance over the fuel tank is perfect. Thanks all for your advice and help. This was easy and free.




I just hope I remember the body is not attached to the frame on my rc before I test drive the new gears.
I just hope I remember the body is not attached to the frame on my rc before I test drive the new gears.
I am still stumped by this one too. I don't want body lift. My cab already has a crack on the corner where a broken cab mount let the cab rub on the gasser tank. This crack is already too wide to weld, without adding new metal. I lowered the mounting bracket and tank is no tight to the cab, I glued rubber in between cab and tank. I dunno the sneer here, I hear all the options, body lift is going to add at least 100 bucks, assuming I just lengthen my current steering shaft.
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