My new truck came with the trailer tow package. Explained to the dealer what I normally tow and was told “not a problem with the hitch”. (8,000 lbs). After a closer look at the receiver hitch it is made of round tubing that is bolted to the frame. I am used to hitches being heavy square tubing. This one looks kind of light to me. Manual says class III 5k and class IV 10k. Makes me wonder if I have the heavier hitch or not.

Does anyone know how to tell the difference between the III and IV hitch?

 

Try searching for 3rd Gen Hitch problems. Some have had problems when towing your weight and heavier. I'm towing 5-6k with no problem.

 

I've towed 8000-lbs with no weight distribution and haven't had a problem.

 

A buddy and I just bought new trucks too with this hitch. We're pretty disappointed with them. It doesn't look like it will hold up to much. It really concentrates the towed weight on the rear of the frame. It doesn't spread it out along a foot or two of the frame like the hitches on other trucks I've owned. I've been looking for a suitable replacement since I don't expect this one to last very long or be very safe to tow with.

I saw a thread here from a few weeks back about Putnam's Class V hitch that looked pretty nice, but I'd still like to see more detailed info about how it attaches to the frame before I decide to go with it.

William Crawley

 

Try this thread: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=100590

It connects to the 'factory' setup, as well as the frame. If I ever get into some heavy towing, this is what I'll go with.

As far as the factory setup is concerned, it's considered a Class IV. Per the dealership where I bought mine, it's good for 500-600 tongue weight (weight carrying) and 1,200 tongue weight (weight distributing). Note these numbers are for my 4.5, not an 06. Did they finally get around to actually putting a sticker with the capacities on the 06's? There are no stickers on the 4.5's.

 

I couldn't find a sticker either.

William Crawley

 

I don't expect this one to last very long or be very safe to tow with.
William Crawley[/QUOTE]

I will apolligise up front here because I know this will be offensive:

With as SUE happy this world is today, do you really think any auto maker would "knowingly" put something on their vehicles that is UNSAFE!?

Just something to think about........

 

Same hitch on my 06. Mine's gone, it was the first mod I made. I did not want to take a chance on it towing my bumper pull 4-horse, w/d and all. Too many problems have been occurring for too many people. Lots of posts on lots of sites by different people. Do a search on hitches and read all about them on all the diesel sites. Oh, and don't forget to inspect it on a regular basis, real regular if you plan on using it.

They actually get out of the SUE stuff pretty easily, I know someone that lost a horse trailer due to cracks that were along the tubes welded seam. Fortunately, the horses were OK, but the hitch let go at the seam. As far as the legal issues, DC said that they would cover replacing the hitch with a new stock one, and were willing to cover the other minor expense and repair the trailer damage. This was properly connected with a w/d.

CD

 

This is the thread I started a few weeks back. Never had to remove the Bumper.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=111762

 

The OEM reciever was way to lite looking for me. If any of you guy's get in the back of your truck and let the wife or a friend drive while you watch the reciever, with your trailer hooked up. I put money on it you'll be scared shi$ttless to drive with the stock one for very long.
The stock one is OK for 5K-6.5K maybe........anything over that. Not this Kid.

Hey Pauly, Thanks for the reply awhile back. (Old Nissan guy to Nissan guy)...... Trust me Dude that reciever moves like it's made out of rubber, at least mine does. Now did I read rite, you don't use WD bars ?? maybe thats why you don't get any noise, flexing, etc. Your not tieing the trailer to the truck frame like with WD bars, the trailer is rotateing/ hanging on the ball so to speak. And if your loaded neutral that would help, Alot. But in my case I have lots of tougne weight, I need more
strength.
And by the way, I've pulled my TH with it stock, and it is no problem. I have the Putnam now. Better safe than sorry in my case. Thanks again.

 

JuzPlaneKrazy,

No problem with the reply. Glad to see a familiar face (well, screenname anyway) over here.

I don't usually tow without the bars, I just do it on occasion when taking the trailer back to storage. Never when loaded for a trip.

I trust your judgement and will take a look at the hitch. I don't want anything coming apart on me thats for sure. But so far it seems to be fine - no noise or perceptible movement. But it never hurts to take a look!

 

Can you please give some links to some of them with the facts....\
I would love to read up on it, I tow and have be sence 03, 8k to 10k with no problem and have not seen or read of a hitch failing being used as it was made to be used. Maybe it is something for me to look at. I have seen several post that say they don't look "safe" or "strong" but no facts that anything failed.
I was looking at a Titan class V but did not want to change everything I got from 2" to 2.5". The reason was that you could run more tounge weight then the stock one without W/D bars. I run W/D bars because I like the better feel with them.
If the facts are that people are using them correct and having it fail I will be the first in line to get a new one.. If it turns out they over loaded it then it is not a problem with the factory hitch. In any case I think it is safe to say that 90% or more of the people with these trucks never use it to the limit of the hitch and would never have a problem with it, its just the people that tow 9-10k+ that give it a workout. What you think?
All I'm saying is this, what I got is working for me but it sounds like there is more info out there that could make me change.
Jon