I just setup our trailer to be pulled by our new 3500 Mega Cab. I'm getting alot of snap-crackels and pop from the reciever hitch. It's not the WD bars, and it's not the ball ...I greased those very good and everything is lined up great.
I have to say I'm not totally impressed with the reciever hitch on our new truck. It looks weak, small bolting to the frame, safety chain holes have no real meat to hold anything incase of emergency, and it just looks poorly designed period.
Don't get me wrong I'm not bagging on our new rig, we love it. It's just that my old 99' F150 and our daughters 04' Titan has a "WAY" better - stronger reciever hitch.

So all that said, has anybody else had this noise on the 06' or any model Dodge ??

"edit" tow trailer max weight 8000Lbs.

 

Well they are Class IV hitches i think, so they have to meet the weight reqs for that class. Does your hitch fit in the receiver with little play, how about the pin hole, is it wore out and oblong? They can make some pretty weird noises when the hitches wear out and start moving around in the reciever.

 

All new equipment. I think this reciever is to small for my trailer. I'm pulling 7500lbs to 8500 lbs.
I don't think this class IV is rated much more than 6000

 

In my '03 manual, it says that the Class IV Hitch can tow 10,000 lbs. with a trailer tongue weight of at least 10% of the GTW (gross trailer weight) but, not more than 15% of the GTW.

I thought that I heard that if you used weight distribution bars, you could tow 12,000 lbs. Not sure, though.

Regarding the popping sound, if your spring bars are latched up too high, when you turn the vehicle, there is not enough slack in the chains & the entire latching mechanism will slide along the top of the frame rails. I've had that cause a popping sound.

Also, if you have a trailer with Dexter axles, many of the shackles & spring mounts have plastic bushings, in them. These do not last very long. When they wear out, you end up with metal to metal contact in those areas. I found when backing up my trailer into the driveway, there would be an audible popping sound. Thought it was just the hitch torqueing.

I have a Nash trailer & read about this problem on their website (AFNash.com). There is a Heavy-Duty Suspension Kit that can be purchased & it replaces the plastic bushings with brass bushings with grease fittings where you need them. A bit over $100.00 but fixes the problem, permanently.

Good Luck.

Joe F.(Buffalo)

 

Mine did that to when I bought my new toy hauler and tried pulling it home with no WD hitch. There was abopught 1200-1600 pounds of toung weight on it and I was constintly looking back to make sure the last pop wasent the trailer falling off. Got home and got a Equalizer brand WD hitch and it is all good now. The hitch makes a lot of noise but a little grease took care of that.

 

I tow around 14k on my receiver hitch all the time...doesn't seem to make any noise.

 

our bumper pull horse trailer when we use the weight dist hitches when we are loaded down with gear saddle horses and pack mules they pop an crack when making turns an some bumps make them do it once we leave the highway and get on a dirt road goin up the mountain we useally just take them off cause we have lost bars before get were we are goin and look down and a realize i only got one bar on an god knows were the other met its maker stupid people why do you gotta steal my bars HAH

 

Don't ever use grease. It may silenc th noise, but it's grinding with grit stuck to it and yu will find some sevrly worn out parts. Always use a dry lube. Plenty of them out there.

A Class 3 is good for 5000# with a 500# hitch weight, and 10000# with a 1000# hitch weight AND weight dist. hitch.

Look at the label on your hitch to see what it's rated for.

If you think you have a little too much slop (common) simply cut a strip of plastic from a ilk jug and slip it in the cracks.

 

My little ball mount for the utility/motorcycle trailer makes some noise when in use - but thats because there isn't much tongue weight on it. When I pull anything heavier there isn't any noise.

You do have the correct pin in it don't you? (not the smaller one)

 

I would think not enough weight on the ball. That is the only time mine makes noice.

 

Thanks guys for the replys. I did a little tightening, and fussed with it a bit and got her to quiet down some.
Ahhh sorry but I think grease is a must use item. Proper grease and cleaning will stop wear, not add to it.
I have no doubt I can pull 14K with my truck too , from the bed, NOT THE HITCH.
The hitch provided with my truck, a 06' 3500 is poorly built, weak, and needs more welding and thicker plateing. This is not a knock on the truck as a whole just a knock on the hitch. First chance I get it will be welded on and straightend up or replaced with a stronger built hitch.

 

"Proper grease and cleaning will stop wear, not add to it."

YES, it will add wear. It will collect dirt, which makes grit, which will grind the metal way. You need to use a dry lube, which is available in easy to use spray cans. It cost the same as a tube of grease and dirt will not stick to it.

 

He stated cleaning in his statement, therefor meaning cleaning the old grease old before applying new grease.

 

Not trying to start a war here but grease is needed on all tow ***** and WD bar's. Nuff said about that.

OK, here's the meat of my posted thread........The stock OEM receiver hitch is crap, total crap, It's listed as a class IV 12,000 lb pull ,1,200 lb TW hitch. Well guys that's BS. The trucks a beauty, the hitch............ is junk.
I'm only posting all this to see if anybody else has changed out the stock R.H. for a real after market model. I have a Putnam ordered, and being sent to me now.
Thanks for any help.

 

JuzPlaneKrazy.

Let me be the first to AGREE with your position on the stock hitch - IT IS A PIECE OF JUNK, poorly designed, and if you carefully read your manual it's rating IS TOTALLY DEPENDENT on you using a weight distributing system to achieve the gross of the hitch. I have read lots of posts on other sites regarding the break down/failures of this hitch by not using weight distributing. Some have lost their trailers when it cracks along the tube side and you do not see it or look for it because there is an assumption about this hitches capabilities.

I changed out my stock receiver when I installed my Ranch Hand Rear Bumper. I purchased a bolt-on receiver from them also. It bolts to the underside of the rear bumper, and I welded mine to the bottom. Takes it to 12K rating of the bumper when welded. I also fabricated a couple angle supports for extra measure.

There are several good receivers out there that are made with good engineering standards. They are put together well, Putnam is one of the best, glad to see you have ordered one. I find it truly amazing that Dodge has made such an amazing hauling rig and then put such a piece of crap on it for towing a bumper pull trailer. I think they must feel that all REAL HAULERS use GN's or 5ers and the box tube is just window dressing. The same applies to their wiring for trailers and the problems people have gotten into because of an under-rated, mickey mouse electrical supply. This is another place that they should have done some soul searching and found out what's being used in the real world.

CD