I tow all the time between 8k and 10k with no problem and for the last 25 or so years all hitches need WD bars to tow max weight as was the 96 that had aftermarket and was the best at the time in a 2" was 500-5000 with no bars and anything more needed WD bars. I towed with mine 8k+ before I got the bars and have not had any problems.
If you read the Putnam you should see it needs WD bars after 5-7k if I remember because this was brought up 2-3 years ago and I was looking for a new one that would be better (everyone said mine would fall off if used)and found the only thing better was a class 5 Titan 2.5" and it mounts under the 2". It would be to low for what I want. Plus the need to lift the bed to remove the old hitch or replace it with another 2" or you need to cut the tube to remove the old. It was put in as the rear crossmember and needs to be there from what I was told and that is why Titan mounts under it and not replaces it.

From Putnam web site
http://www.putnamhitch.com/25000_pdf...structions.pdf

Mounts to bumper and will not fit trucks with factory hitch.

Jon

 

Just so you in case you plan on changing the rear tube with a hitch to one without the hitch, in order to get that tube off you got to take the bumper off entirely, unbolt the bed and jack the bed up to slide that tube off the frame It may not look like it, but trust me you do.

 

Thanks CD, This is the nicest truck I have owned in 35 years of driving trucks. Dodge just didn't help the TT guys by installing this hitch. Even useing a WD setup (which I have) I still don't trust it. That stock thing flexs and moves side to side like crazy. I rode in the back and watched it. Not what I wanted to see.
I did call Putnam Hitch and they said the stock one for sure has to be cut off, or remove bummper and lift bed just like others have said,.... well so be it, A torch is close at hand.
I'll post some pictures as I remove the old one and show what I did't like, as well as what the Putnam looks like and it's install.
I'm not knocking this truck by any means guys...This is my new toy. And that back seat Mega Cab area..............Well lets just say, even Mama likes all that room back there.

 

I drilled a 3/4 bolt clearance hole in the bottom of my receiver hitch and welded a nut on it. Then when I put my insert in, I tighten a bolt down and lock it with another jam nut. It makes the receiver and the insert one and gets rid of clanks and noises. It also hurts like Hades when you walk around your truck at night and catch your shin on it! Granted I have to use an inch and 1/8 wrench everytime I take my receiver out, but that is only about once a year.

 

For those that are thinking of a "real" strong hitch, like the Putnam CL 5. Well here's some pictures a guy sent me on how to install it the "RITE" way. Totally make's sence why they incorporate the old hitch and bummper.
Thank SAS! for the picture's it will make my install a breezzzzzzzzzzz.







That about sum's it up.

 

Sorry, but I don't see how that is going to be much stronger, they even cut it up just for shipping and you need to bolt it back togethor and only use one bolt up front on each side. I remember the old class 5 titans having 4 bolts on the bottom and 4 on the side so a total of 8 bolts on each side not 3 per side like this one. They also went over 2' up each frame rail..

 

Sometimes I can't see the forest for the tree's either. Your not looking or just flat a$$ don't want to accept the stock one is crap, now maybe the 03' model trucks like yours have a way better reciever, but this one I have is not acceptable in my book for pulling over 8K. And if the stock one is rated at 10K, somebodys asking for trouble.

 

Well, I'll tell you one thing, if it weighs in at over 8K or 10K, I don't want it on a bumper pull hitch anyway. I have one word for you....GOOSE*NECK! Ok, actually two words. Reguardless of how strong either hitches are, I don't want that much weight hanging out there on a catalever bouncing my truck down I-40 and beating the absolute crap out of me! The only thing reciever hitches are good for are lawnmower trailers and a place to mount a bumper dumper. http://www.bumperdumper.com/

$.02

 

Can you talk about this more in engineering terms so we can all learn more from you. Maybe something like Statics and Strength of materials, loading, strength of bolts, strenght of round steel or square steel, maybe flat steel....
I'm ready to learn if you want to talk engineering.....
I think the engineer at Dodge checked all the numbers and proved his design to get it on the truck, Could it be better and still work, Yep anything can be made better, could it be worse, maybe but a lot of people would be having problems and I'm sure a recall would be in line..........

Think stock its a Class IV rated at 1200 tw 12000 trailer.......
I tow between 8k and 10k all the time with no problem so it works for me.

This was the last 10k tow 5 + hrs

 

you can also drill a hole in the reciever hitch tube and weld a nut to is so when you tighten the bolt it locks the hitch from flopping around in the tube and realy quiets it down alot.

 

I just toss my drawbar (insert peice) into the mud plus leave it laying on the garage floor next to a leaking battery. It will collect enough rust dirt and fuzz to make up for the extra space.

 

Just maybe it is because stuff like this that people are having problems with the hitch...

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=115362

NO wonder they are not holding up.

 

Exactly, its amazing what some people will do....

 

Except for minor cracking around the stock hitch mounting brackets (there was a TSB on this years ago), Dodges factory receiver hitch is very stout.

When logging out at the ranch, my '98 broke several logging chains and repeatedly jerked it's own rear end (10K# gross) off the ground when tearing out the larger stumps. Truck parts were the only thing that never suffered doing that stuff..

 

Do you have any pics of how it mounts from the outside of the frame? I see in the pics how the rear bolts to the frame right next to the stock hitch and the front mounts to the frame. I would like to see what those four bolts in the middle below the cross member are mounted to.

Thanks,
William Crawley