blake2500

Ok, I have searched here with no luck. I am trying to find out what I will need if I order a 0-30 Isspro FP gauge alone. Best price I found is $40.

I want to do the cheapest route, and from what I understand mechanical with no isolater is the simplest setup. What do I need to order with the gauge to do the install?

Thanks guys!

TLDC

I'm not sure if this will help but www.genosgarage.com has installation instructions for gauges. I figured it may have a parts list too or by reading the instructions you can make up your own list of what's needed. Take care!

Dartmouth 12V

Are you looking to permanently install the gauge or just use it for troubleshooting? If you are permanently installing it, you will need a way to mount it and provide power to it. There are people who do not run isolators but I feel that it is important to run one so that you don't have diesel in the cab. Regardless, you will need the right size line to hookup the gauge. You will also need a way to tap into your fuel system which is most easily done by buying a special banjo bolt.

wcbcruzer

I am running a mech. fuel pressure without an isolator. You will need a tapped banjo bolt, tubing, Permatex #2, and a needle valve from Ace hardware. For tubing I'm using 6' of -4AN stainless braided. Although overkill to some, it gives me peace of mind. I also needed an adapter to go from 1/8" npt to -4an at the banjo bolt, but I didn't need one for the back of my gauge.

Check this thread out:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=fuel+pressure

Contrary to what I said about the install in that thread, it actually wasn't that bad. It's just that I primed it when I installed it the first time but you don't need to do that; makes the install much better.

blake2500

So, when you factor in all of the crap I have to buy - hoses, banjo bolts, etc, what is the rough estimate for total cost?

Would it be better to just spend the extra for the isolater from Geno's for ease of installation so I don't have to go hunt down a bunch of fittings that I am not familiar with?

Dartmouth 12V

Isspro sells the proper lines to hook up the gauge with or without an isolator.

Since you have a 2001 with an electric fuel pump, you won't need a needle valve or snubber. That is only for the 12V motors with the mechanical LP.

I don't know an estimate for cost since I did my gauges too long ago.

Dr. Evil

That is completely false information.

With a 24V you definitely need a needle valve or a snubber to dampen the pulses from the VP-44. if using a needle vale it should be just cracked far enough open so that you get a smooth reading and ensure the pressure drops to zero when the truck is shut off.

The setup should look something like this:



And there are really two options for a 24V. #1 - fuel filter outlet:



or #2 - at the test port on the Vp-44:



A guage is around $40, tapped banjo bolts is around $12, a few dollars for 1/8" DOT brake line, and a needle vale is $8 or so.



Blake, you can get everything you need from www.vulcanperformance.com

wcbcruzer

I forgot how much I paid for all the stuff. The hose was pretty expensive ($40-$50) but the rest was about $20 or so altogether. It would NOT be better to just spend the extra money for the isolator or elec. fuel pressure guage. I didn't get a mechanical fuel pressure gauge because I thought it would be cheaper. I got it because that's the best way to accurately measure fuel pressure. Electric gauges and isolators will fail.

blake2500

Ok, I was planning on hooking it to the fuel filter outlet because I am really concerned with the LP, and am about 2 weeks into the new "Airtex" pump.

I guess I am an idiot because I can't put together a complete parts list from genos or vulcan. Can somebody help? Installation shouldn't be a problem once I get all the parts and fittings picked out.

wcbcruzer

Correct me if I'm wrong but the outlet on top of the fuel filter housing is only for temporary use (at least that's how it is on a 12v). The correct way is to get a tapped banjo bolt.

HOHN

I see two ways to to get FP readings that I'd consider user-friendly:

1) First, is the replacement FF lid that has the tapped FP port on top.

2) Second, a fuel line fitting tapped for the FP port. I have the Scotty big line kit that did this for me. I'm sure there are other big line kits on the market that would do this is well. Perhaps Vulcan or Glacier have something.

A snubber is often necessary on a 24V truck because of the VP pulses hammering up the line. I never personally had any luck with a needle valves. I had better results with grease gun hose in multiple sections. That, and a liquid-filled guage.

JH