Geo99ram

The brake is installed in a 99 Dodge 3500, it was working fine until the wireless switch quit on me. How can I hard wire it with toggle switches? The red box has a band of wires, but how do I decipher which one is the pull and which one is the hold side before I start cutting the wires? Is it possible to replace or repair the wireless switch? I think it's just the red switch that activate it is the only bad part. I have read a few threads about this exhaust brake. Seemed like Greek to me.

AlpineRAM

Did you try to source a replacement part with US gear? It looks like they still sell the product, so this might be the easiest route.

As to what is pull and what is hold- you have 3 wires going to the brake- one ground, and 2 to the coils, pull and hold respectively.
With a DMM you measure resistance between each coil wire and ground- lower resistance is pull, higher is hold.
Do not go for simple toggle switches, the electronic does much more than you see with the naked eye.
Read D-Celerator Diesel Exhaust Brake Operating and Installation Instructions to understand what the system does.

Geo99ram

No available parts from us gear

AlpineRAM

But maybe a wiring diagram and some specs?

AlpineRAM

The controller should be quite easy to emulate with an arduino, 2 relays, some switches and a microswitch for the go pedal.

Geo99ram

There's 2 relays all ready on the firewall, 1 has the gray wire for the pull side. Can I use the existing relays? The pull side is 40 amps and the hold side 10 amp draw. I have to turn down loads going over Eisenhower Tunnel and Vail Pass. I pull a 9k trailer and some loads over 13k. I thought that I could get by without buying a new BD or Pac Brake system. What comes inside the cab? Guess you've figured it out that I don't know jack about it. Thanks George in Denver.

Geo99ram

I don't know if red switch is bad? The next biggest part that looks like a small battery with a pull tab that gave up the ghost .

AlpineRAM

Are you sure that this belongs to the brake? I can't imagine that one would do a radio remote control with a non-changeable battery for a safety part like a brake.

Nevertheless, there must be still some more stuff to control the relays.
Follow the wires going to 85 and 86 on the relays- you should find the real controller then. (Could be under the hood or under the dash. Then take a look at where the other wires go from that controller. Normally there should be one cable going to a throttle switch that inhibits the brake if you are off idle (saves you from engine meltdown), one cable that gets power with the ignition on, a ground and also some cable to a switch and a light to control the brake. (if this isn't done by your remote gizmo)

When you find the power supply to the controller, check if it gets power with the ignition on or the engine running- quite often the problem is in some fuse or chafed wire and tough to find but cheap to fix when found.

Your radio part- take a look at the battery looking thing and check if there is some voltage number on it- if yes, measure the voltage between the 2 poles of the battery, might be empty. For the switch (I imagine it is a pushbutton momentary switch) you can check resistance change when pushing it.