Depending on the model of P pump in your truck, the spring could be quite stiff. The 215 pumps had car springs for that thing and 1 click would make alot of difference, also if you slid the plate and not the AFC, you would not get any additional fueling. There is a zero boost screw at the back of the AFC also that can help with off the line punch.

 

ummm... let me see if i have any pictures of the allen head access hole. look just below my thumb. remove that allen head plug, turn geared wheel inside. you may have to turn it quite a bit to notice a difference. towards front of engine, as others have said. the spring behind the wheel should loosen. the picture quality isn't the greatest, but it should help.

 

well i too was curious if my star wheel had been adjusted by the P/O and sure enough it had..... i suspected it could when i popped the allen screw out without too much effort, and found the star wheel all the way forwards in the access hole.... now would someone care to tell me how to adjust my AFC and how???




theres my pic of a fully adjusted star wheel..... when people reference towards the radiator that are referring to the rad as the front of the hole (firewall being rear of the hole). aka full forwards or counter clockwise or turn it towards the engine

 

AFC = Aneroid Fuel Control
not air fuel control

 

to adjust afc, you need to loosen/remove the four screws/bolts that hold it in place and slide it forward. the top left fastener is a break-off, meaning there is no tool head on it, it looks like a rivet head or something. you can pound an appropriatly sized torx driver into it (T-15, i think), dremel a slot into it for a screwdriver(good luck getting a dremel in there), or take a chisel to it and use a tangental force with taps from a hammer to slowly back the screw out. (do not chisel the head of this screw off). i guess a left hand drill bit or screw remover would work good too. tip- bend the IP fuel line a little bit to make room, much easier than removing the banjo bolt. the afc housing will only move about a 1/4", so don't expect any great range of adjustment.

 

I always use a chisel to make a slot for removal with a screwdriver. Most definately remove # 5 and 6 injector lines from the pump and move them, do not bend them.

 

question:

why was this post moved from the 12v forum?

 

Happens more than it should. Makes it hard to sort out all the 24 valve junk and gives the Performance moderator more to deal with in a forum that's already the busiest.
Someone needs to spank the 12 valve forum moderator.

I never remove the injection lines to deal with the tamper proof screw. Just use a 12" long 1/4" drill bit, slip it inbetween the lines and drill the head of the screw off. Once the top of the AFC is off what's left of the breakoff screw will come out with just your fingers.

 

i didn't mean bend the HP injection lines, i meant bend the injection pump supply line a little(not much, just enough to get at the break-off screw), much easier than removing the banjo bolt.