i had to replace my vp44 last november and im afraid to put the dr. performance stage III back on but i miss the power. My friend just bought a 06 f-250 and smoked me. I want to do some mods but im not sure what is best. i put a straight 4" exhaust and have a boost and pyro gauge allready what should i do next? Im on a budget, cant let the wife know too much! any suggestions? can i run the dr. performance on my map sensor and not attach the wire to the injection pump and get some extra power?

thanks

Power Hungry!!

 

I don't know if the dr. performance is like the edge comp but if it is then you can run it without the wire attached. In reality, the box probably didn't cause it to fail, although it didn't help it live longer either. It failed because it's a crappy design. I've got 99000 on my original VP and it's been run with it's wire tapped on and off a dozen times and run with no fuel pressure and it's still ticking along. I say throw it back on there, tap the wire, and have fun.

 

we are paddling the same boat. Dont want to void my warrenty on the new vp44 , I have 130 hp jammers so I got a smarty, it don't have the top end as much but the bottom end is better, I am well pleased. I will stack a tst (some day)

 

Chicken...

 

Smarty, sticks, & BHAF

 

I say tap away. It looks like you had close to 150,000 miles on your original VP so I dont think that the box was what killed it, it was just old and tired.

 

blue chip pump cover, keeps warranties happy!

 

Forget the pump cover.You either tap the wire and forfeit the warranty or you don't.

The pump cover is known to crack itself and sometime crack the FPCM PC board and ruin the pump if overtightened. You don't need the pump cover, and a smart tech knows what he's looking at and will void the warranty.

If you tap the wire, you tap it. The days of a wire tap instantly killing a VP44 are pretty much over. This only happened on the early VPs in 1998 and 99 MY trucks.

You don't need to tap the wire to get gobs of towing power. Smarty and some M4s will make enough power to pull anything with a hitch. EGT and water temps are another matter entirely.

Honestly, I'd install the Dr.P stuff you have and tap the wire. No, it's probably not the best on the market, but it's what you have, and you might as well get what you paid for.

So either sell are your Doc P stuff at a huge loss and re-bomb with a different combo, or just install it and get some fun for the money you paid.

I confess I've "re-bombed" myself as new things were available. I now have M4s instead of dd2s, and I've had an EZ and a VA before now having the smarty. You always lose money changing your mind though.

jmo

 

I agree with Hohn they can tell if the caps been off and thats the same as the wire tap. The only way that the tap wire can kill the pump if the pump's calling for more fuel beca use of the wire and your not giving it to it with a fass, or helper pump of some sort keep the presure up and it wont make any diff. BUT IT STILL WILL VOID THE WARRENTY

 

Now, now, don't go knocking the pump cover. While it doesn't guarantee that a bad pump that was tapped will be warranted it provides a much better connection than the silly scotch locks and various other types of wire connectors supplied with wire tap boxes. However, if you do it right you can get it warranted...

I soldered, then shrink wrapped my connection the 1st time, but when I replaced my VP with the Blue Chip pump I opted for the pump cover. Now, the circuit board has 1 small hole it it that can easily be filled with silicone or urethane and no tech, no matter what would be able to tell that it was ever tampered with. It just takes a little more time to cover up your evidence.

 

I wasn't thinking about the Scotch Loks, as I consider them crap.


My preferred method is a PosiTap-- www.posi-tap.com


from Swenco.

 

Go for it and don't look back ! I was scaired to touch mine for years worried I might tear up something. Now that I found all you guys to egg me on I've wished I started bombing a long time ago !