Does anyone here use one of these on their trucks?

I've been dragging my trailer around a lot lately and have been in the position of having to leave the truck running while parked on inclines once and awhile. As we all know, the park brakes on these trucks work fine but are hit and miss when you have a few thousand pounds of trailer pushing against it.

I want to use a Line Loc for a "temporary" park brake when I feel the factory unit isn't quite up to task like on inclines and hills and such. I will still and always use the factory brake as usual but would just like the added peace of mind knowing that the truck isn't going to do the roll down the hill thing.

I was going to mount it on the front brake circuit as you normally would and just use a dash mounted switch to activiate it as needed. My concern is the ABS brakes. Do you think they would be an issue? The Line Loc just ties into the single line off the master cylinder so it shouldn't affect the ABS. Would it?

Throw me some thoughts and opinions and tell me what you think. Will it work?

Thanks guys as always!

Jeff

 

I cant say for sure about the A/L stuff but it shouldnt matter?
I dont have one on my truck but have had many on different cars, there pretty simple so not much could go wrong other than the selenoid letting go with prolonged use maybe?
I dont see how but....
Sounds like a good idea!

 

 

I've seen this subject pop up a few times before.
The usual consensus is the line loc is only designed to hold for a few seconds, like while you wait for "the tree" to come down, and prolonged activation will burn out the solenoids.

 

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HAHAHA LMAO
Good point!

 

Shovelhead is correct, using the line loc for more than a few seconds and it be toast in short order. Wheel chock...

 

Jeff the thing you are looking for is called a line lock and is designed to lock all the hydraulic brakes on vacuum over hydraulic brakes, check with Traction Heavy Truck parts or Danco Equipment. PK

 

Thanks guys

Yes I could use a wheel chock. Problem with a wheel chock sometimes is the fact that the park brake won't hold the truck/trailer on the hill long enough to get out to chock the wheels. Would look kind of funny having to chase it down the road trying to throw a chock in front of the wheel.

I never thought about the electrical end of a Roll Control/Line Loc. Never considered the solenoids burning out.

Pat, now that you mention it, I remember what your talking about now. Used to run an old Hyster forklift with a manual lever for the park brake. Push on the brakes, flip the lever and she just sits there.

Have to look into this a little more. I just don't trust the factory park brake and would prefer the fronts were locked instead of the rear anyways.

Thanks again guys!

Jeff

 

You can use a manual line lock but you'd have to plumb a line into the cab. The valve pictured is $55 + $15 for a roll of line and $20 or so for fittings. You could place the valve in front of the drivers seat. Apply the brakes, turn the **** and the fronts are locked. You have to check the brake plumbing to make sure there's no proprosioning(sp) valve plumbed in that bypasses the line the lock is in.



http://www.swagelok.com/downloads/we...s/MS-01-60.pdf

I don't know how many of these guys have actually used electric push button locks but I have them in my rock buggy and prolonged use never hurt them. I've left them on for hours with no problem. Specifically, I used the $70 b&m from summit, part number BMM-46076. The only thing you have to watch is leaving them on for long periods (over night) will kill the battery which releases the pressure.


Even though I know the electric one is unlikely to fail, I wouldn't feel comfortable with it holding 25K pounds on a hill. Go with a manual lock for yours and others safety.

 

Afterdigging around in the garage I found the box for one and they were marketed under Micro-Loc. PK