So finally pulled my plate today, over the next week I really want to get in the pump and tune it nicely. I love smoke as much as the next guy but Im smarter then to want my truck smoking like a train. It was strange, when I pulled the afc housing off my plate had 10 stamped into it, but my factory break off screw hadnt been tampered with. And when I started my truck after I got everything back together when I went to shut it off it kept running for another 30 seconds then finally stumbled and died. I restarted and when I went to turn it off it turned off fine. It hasnt done it since (2 hours ago) and has only been started and turned off 2 or 3 times which it started fine and turned off fine. As far as bads I have a fairly heavy haze at wot but goods is that it started waking the truck up, not a massive difference but its definitely there and I love it. Im leaving it like this until I get a pyro guage. Im actually pretty timid about my egts at wot so on the way home I only got on it a handful of times cause I couldnt help my self For the time being Im gonna work on making the truck a little prettier then really dive into bombing. Gauges then 4gsk are in the near future. What can I do about my egts?

 

TST plates came with a breakoff screw to fool the dealer if any warranty issues.

Your shutdown solenoid might have been half cocked when you put it on, so it bound up a little. I've had that happen when I put them on occasionally, but its usually a no start condition.

Your AFC is not traveling far enough to get more rack travel, thats why you haven't seen much of a difference. Or your wastegate is opening at too low of a pressure. This is where you need the gauges, so you can diagnose where the fault is. Plug your wastegate and try it again. Just don't bark the charger, as I said in your other thread, 40's are known to break the shafts when they surge or bark. I wouldn't be too concerned with EGT's as long as they aren't continuous. I've had my 24v to the point that it took 15 seconds for the needle to start moving off the 1600F mark after letting off the throttle. Pegged the pyro in my 12v numerous times. Everything looked great when I had the head off last year.

 

Is there a write up on the afc rack travel? Just to give me an idea of what needs to be done. Should I let everything be right now until I get my guages? I do have a boost guage, so if I can work with the whole wastegate issue with just a boost guage let me know. Thanks again tate and happy halloween

 

most iv had on a WOT flat land pull is 1200 so not too worried about it until i haul or go up some hills, but iv never ran into issues with egts playing around. but i see now why gauges r so important-get them in ASAP im guessing u wont c a huge difference from a 10 plate to nothing, especially if the 10 was full forward. i went from a stock plate almost full back to nothing and believe me its noticable, especially when the clutch slips ate 1/4 throttle now ditto with tate on the shutoff solenoid,,,very easy to miss but no biggie. while tate is one of my most respected users on this forum with his vast arsenal of knowledge about these truck id question running to 1600 degrees? not cause i know better but cause im somewhat ignorant perhaps? seems to me 1250 was the magic number and even 1300 could cause damage to your engine already? so how do guys get away with 1600? im not sure......maybe someone will clarify

 

1250 is/was the max for continuous duty, as in running at that temperature all day long without issue. Going beyond that for short bursts is not going to hurt anything in most cases. That being said, EGT's are just a rough guide as to what is going on in the cylinder. Cylinder temps and pressures are what causes damage. You could have low EGT's and still melt pistons. 325hp CR's are well known for this. I'm not telling you to try and bury your pyro all the time, but going beyond 1250 is not going to catastrophically fail your engine.

 

The 10 plate was all the way back, but it definitely has more get up and go, I guess Im a hopeful wisher but in reality I know its gonna alot of work to have a quick truck. My next purchase will very likely be a pyro guage. What about afc housing placement? Its in the full forward position right now, would I have better luck with it in full rear?

 

Happens quite often when folks don't loosen the bottom, impossible to see solenoid bracket bolt and bend the bracket instead.
Can result in binding linkage and a solenoid that doesn't lift all the way.