I'm currently running a # 10 torque plate, what would be the advantages of switching to a #8, #5, #4, or a #0????? <br><br>I'm not quite understanding why the #10 is the biggest recomended for the 96'-98' 5 speed, I understand it has to do with egt's &amp; clutches, but why would they recommend the others for an auto??? would they not also get hot or do the DV's &amp; injectors keep the amount of fuel down enough to keep them cool? <br><br> anyways would it be ok for me to run a larger (hotter) plate in my truck &amp; just watch the pyro &amp; let my foot keep the temps down? &amp; can I get alot more out of my truck w/just a hotter plate &amp; stock injectors???<br><br> every retailer I've spoken to about more power has tried to push a set of injectors on me, &amp; I'd love a set of 370's, but until the $ situation will allow for the injectors, Y not go w/ a hotter plate??? thanks in advance for any info. sincerely, Dusty

 

Well my $.02- The standard tranny injection pump puts out more than the one on an auto. It has bigger delivery valves and a different cam plate as well as feeding slightly larger injectors. There may be even be other differences I'm not aware of. That's why the two different power levels for the same cam plate. For example, a '96 auto makes 180hp stock, a standard 215.<br><br>Both (injectors and fuel plate) are relatively easy upgrades.<br>I think a balanced approach includes both, not trying to get a huge increase from just one. Go ahead and put in that 3K GSK, it'll take full advantage of what your current fuel plate will deliver. The 14cm2 turbine housing will also help build boost quicker, but may be a little restrictive beyond 350hp. Of course at that level, you have already toasted your stock clutch!! ;D<br><br>I have been toying with which injectors to buy. Today I talked to Tim at City Diesel- For max power and smoke get the 370s, but you may need to change delivery valves. However, the 300s are very streetable with little extra smoke as long as you are taking it easy, not too bad even at WOT, and stock delivery valves are ok. I'm going with the 300s.

 

Vin,<br> I also do most of my dealing w/tim at city diesel ,(when he's not on the road) he seems to really know his stuff, it was someone else there at city diesel who informed me they had 2 larger plates than what I have ( mine- 8313, they also have an 8316 &amp; an 8319. <br><br>I did consider the GSK, but tim talked me out of it, he says that the plate itself makes the truck pull harder to 3000 rpm's &amp; that the gsk only lets it pull another 2 to 3 hundred rpm's???? <br><br> last time i spoke with Tim he tried selling me there new HX35 hybrid turbo, but heck I can't even afford a set of injectors let alone a new turbo. I'm running a 16cm housing now &amp; that's keeping my temps managable.<br><br> I do plan on getting either the 300's or 370's after the first of the year, but I have to save enough $$ for a new clutch too, the bigger plate was just a thought, might wait on it for awhile, I dunno, thanks for the reply, Dusty

 

I went from a #10 to the #0 which has no defueling at all. Before I would suggest it a #0, you needs a bigger turbo(Piers HX-40 or B1). ANd you have to have control over your foot. <br><br>When I was running a HX-35 w/ a 16CM2 housing a #11 was all I could run and tow with the 370 injectors. <br><br>As Vin said the 215 HP motors have a bigger pump including delivery valves and some special timing treatment in the cuts on the delivery valves as well as bigger injectors. <br><br>I would suggest you get injectors (370s), a Governer spring kit, Do the rocker arm adjustment, and a bigger turbo. Also the Scotty 2 Air System Helps wonders at keeping the EGTs in check and allowing you to stay in the throttle longer. After all this and some control then you'll be ready for the #0.<br><br>Vin, The 300 HP injectors don't have the right spray pattern, there is a HP increase at Top end but they actually make less power down low. Piers doesn't even sell them because of that. I can drive Smoke Free, it only starts smoke past 1/2 throttle and they do smoke at full throttle. But that s what power is all about.

 

drawson,<br> I don't have any trouble towing w/ my #10 &amp; stock injectors, but I don't tow all that heavy very often. I was also wondering how far forward can I run the # 10, &amp; as it goes forward do I need to adjust the gov. lever or will it be right??? I was told that the lever should ride in the &quot;valley&quot; above the first nose on the plate , (I'm assuming while the truck is running or something to that nature), but pier's directions show the lever hitting right on the bottom of the plate under the first nose, is this just a difference in having the truck shut off &amp; running or what??? I was under the impression my gov. lever needed adjusting, but according to piers' pictures it's adjusted right????? thanks, Dusty

 

Dusty,<br><br>The idea behind a specific cut on a fuel plate is to limit fuel vs rpm. That's why I think a guy is well off to not go too crazy on a plate- you can stand on it and EGTs still don't just skyrocket.<br><br>The Piers PDR HX35 is no doubt a wonderful product- more and quicker boost. I have a little more home-brewed version- a HX40 compressor housing and pinwheel. I shopped around and got the turbo upgrade kit for about 1/3 the cost.<br>I don't have the benefit of better oiling and super tight tolerances, but I have more boost than I know what to do with. I guess I'll just have to add some more fuel to make up for it! <br><br>Now where the disagreement might start. The stock gov springs limit the engine to about 2550rpm, but by 2200 or so, the pump is already cutting back. At that time, and depending on the cut and position, the fuel plate may not even be touched by the tab. The 3K GSK lets my engine rev easily to 3200, and I can't tell if it's cutting back much at all before that. The profile of the plate becomes the limiting factor, not the governor. No doubt different plates will make a bigger difference than others, and maybe the one you have is actually mild enough that the GSK wouldn't make that much difference. It sure did on mine! Shifts between 2700-3000 are awesome! ;D

 

drawson,<br><br>I was under the impression that the 370s were actually the ones that had a somewhat incorrect spray pattern. Tim said the ones they sell for 300s are not much different from the 230s I had been thinking of, just slightly larger orifice.<br>I'm looking for more response, a bit more power, but don't want to give up a certain level of efficiency. I also want to avoid excessive smoke (STEALTH MODE!).<br>

 

I have the 300 inj and I can't agree that they get less hp at low rpm's but I like them. The only reason I will be getteing the 370's is because I want more power.

 

There are many 370s injectors Piers &amp; Joe D did alot of testing to come up with the right ones. <br>The testing I actually did was on my buddies truck a 1996 5 speed 215 HP motor with the 300s. They made less HP and torque than the 215s did down low(1600-2000rpms) and then came on (2200-governed rpms). <br><br>As far as smoke goes to get rid of smoke more cool air is needed. Before putting on my Piers Super HX-40/16, I was running my stock turbo with a 16 CM2 housing and seeing 45+ pounds of boost and it smoked so bad it was dangerous to be behind me. This was with a #11 3/4 forward and 370s. After installing the HX-40 and with only 38 PSI of boost the smoke was just a gray haze. <br><br>My milage with the 370s is better than it was before on the freeway (empty 1/2mpg towing 1mpg) I have lost alittle in stop and go driving (-1/2mpg). My milage is more determined by the weight of my foot than any other thing I have done to my truck. Last tank I played with a Duramax and a couple of Ricers and still got 18.15mpg!!!!<br>

 

drawson,<br> did you have the scotty II w/the stock turbo &amp; 16cm housing?? if so how much, if any did it clear up your smoke. I've got my #10 a bit forward from stock, not positive exactly how much maybe 1/8 to 1/16 of an inch??? I get a thick cloud until boost hits around 20 psi then it gradually clears up to still a fairly dark haze. just wondering if the scotty would help this or do I need to build an hx35/40 hybrid with the $200?????? THANKS Dusty

 

The Scotty did help the smoke, it keep the air getting to the turbo CooOOOooOOl. Cool air helps alot for smoke. In the summer I smoke a hole bunch more. I would skip the Hybred and go right to the Piers HX-40 because it sound like you got the HP bug bad ;D