going to get a fuel plate for the old 95 manual. thinking of a #5 plate cause thats about what id like for power, but iv also heard guys talk about 0 and 100 pates but never found information about them, like how much horse they add. would a #10 plate from a 96-98 model work? all my numbers and information is coming from the puredeiselpower website.....

PS how hard would it be to advance the timing on the pump? since its gonna be half torn apart anyways.

 

What are you doing with the truck. I'd just pull the plate.

 

not doing anything.....just want to have around 300hp to be competitive with other newer deisels lol i thought of that but would rather run a plate thats configered properly. the only other thing ill do (for now) is advance the timing.

 

Define configured properly.

 

I'm with Tate on this one. The fuel plate is essentially the rack travel limiter. As long as you're not at WOT, the AFC is what limits fuel. You can pull the plate and set the AFC so conservatively that the engine won't even pull a slight grade in overdrive.

 

well i meant that by removing the fuel plate ur allowing a unregulated amount of fuel to flow into the motor, right? a fuel plate has the necesary fuel curve needed to coincide with the amount of boost that u have at a certain rpm thus giving less chance of burning down even though u may b running it hard for a extended period of time no? im going to have a pyro and boost gauge either way, but didnt wanna take the chance of some idiot borrowing my truck and being stupid burn it down. and what is this AFC u talk about? that screw thing under the plate?

 

A fuel plate is a cruise control for your egts.
If you don't like watching the pyro all the time and controlling egts with your foot especially while towing use a plate.
If you don't tow much pull the plate, if you tow most folks find the #10 to be best.
Good plates are only $30 on ebay if you want to experiment.

 

i always wondered what is the difference in power between a zero plate and no plate?

 

well most ive ever towed was like 3-4000 lbs, but the question is, even with just that amount of weight, if im pulling up a 2 mile long hill, will i be able to keep the egts down and maintain decent speed? or would i have to slow right down now and then to let it cool off?
Also with no fuel curve, how is the air fuel mixture regulated? i speak in regards to psi of boost. or am i totally lost now?

 

All the plate is is a rack stop. Unless you are WOT, the plate is not being used. Its like putting a brick under your pedal. Exact same principle. The AFC is what you actually tune with to control the amount of fuel in relation to boost pressure. You can set the AFC so you wouldn't know if the plate was all the way to the rear or not there at all.

Do a search on tuning the AFC on Comp D, tons of reading there and you'll get a better understanding of how the governor works.

 

I run a #10 plate in my truck and a wot see boost at 35 psi . I installed a pyro to be able to see what the temps I`am causing with my right foot. Hills that I would drop from 65 mph stock I would drop to 50 mph. With the #10 I still see a drop of 5 or 6 mph on cruse pulling my fiver.The fifer has a gvw of 10,000 lbs and my wife likes to have everything with her, so I know i`am heavy loaded. With out the fiver the truck works great. it was slow passing before and I mean slow. Now its great I can pull out to pass in OD and go by like a gasser.a 55 mph pass I can see 80 mph to get back in. I installed the # 10 plate in the same place that the stock plate was sitting and have not moved it and soon will now that I have a pyro to keep an eye on.I bought the #10 of E Bay for $35.00 and it came with a nozzle to control boost.I used to see 24 psi stock and now see 36 psi with it installed. I get great mpg but I will move the plate just to see what I could be getting.The #10 plate was the best mood I had done to my truck so far to improve get up and go . My .02