Ok so here is the problem.. I want a 2nd gen dodge cummins to turn into a hot rod and run really fast at the strip and still be able to be as reliable as a daily driver.. so my question is 12v or 24? whats the pros and cons of both and what would be better for a hot diesel on the street. I gotta say I love the sound of a 12 with stacks.. so any info you can give me would really help..

 

It depends on how much HP you want, and what's really important to you.

If you want the best sound, a 12V sounds more like a big rig than a clattertrap 24V does.

If you want more driveability at high HP, then a 24V is better.

If you only want to stop at 600hp or less, then either will work fine, though a 24V will be easier to manage the smoke and EGT.

24V trucks also don't bark turbos as easily as the 12V trucks-- the heads flow a little better.

12Vs can fuel a lot more, so big power (over 700) rules out the 24V. Same for big RPM-- the 12Vs can wind up a lot higher.

12V trucks are known to puke dowel pins into the gear case, occasionally crack the 53 blocks, and other maladies.

24V trucks are known to fry VP44s, lose lift pumps, crack 53 blocks, and other maladies.

If you want my advice, find a 2wd reg cab truck, who cares if its 12 or 24v. The mpg and overall cost of the 2wd reg cab is MUCH better in the long haul.

Plus, you are looking for performance, and nothing helps performance quite like dropping a thousand pounds or so!

 

im looking for enough power to run low 12s in a 4dr long bed 4X4 with a manual tranny.. so we are prob talkin like 550hp and 1100lbstq right?? What does it mean to bark a turbo.. is that like surging?? I have heard the 12vs puke dowels but doesnt the KDP kit fix that? Do you have to worry about the KDP with a 24v?? Ive heard the 98.5-02 24v trucks have a transfer pump on the motor and the vibration kills it.. the kits they sell for moving them.. do they work and can a pump on a 24v support 550 hp?? I really appreciate all the info..

 

The KDP Fix will prevent the pin from falling out, I think it affected trucks up until '02.

 

Get a 1st gen, but then again, I am biased Flame suit on!

1st, the first gens are LIGHT!!! compared to 2nd or 3rd gens. In my truck in my sig, I weighed at 6200# with 3/4 tank of fuel and my 170#'s.

2nd, they can easily fit twins and the last 2 injectors you can get at. Everything is pretty much mechanical so it is very easy to fix.

3rd, they are VERY tough! The transfer case is either cast-iron or steel, I think cast. If I am right, something to do with the front-ends make them tougher....

The things you would not have are the 4dr option (Just ext. cab, aka, Club Cab) and a tranny you can shift quickly. The Getrag 360 5spd is a heavy tranny, lots of moving mass in there. The NV4500 might be a way better option. Also the VE might not hit 550hp but with the right stuff, it can move.

So I would suggest a W250, club cab. Get the pump adjusted right, add the 4000gsk, 60lbs valve springs, water/meth, NV 4500, gauges....

Jon

OHH!! You wanted a 2nd gen. My bad!

 

How fast can you shift?..?..? add at least another 100hp to get a manual where a auto can get in E.Ts.

 

If your after speed stick with a 5 speed and stay away from the slow shifting 5600

o and my vote is for the good ole 12 valve