anyone have any suggestions on how to boost the power on my 12v without major mods? i am looking for a bit more power on a mostly stock truck. i have already straight piped it but am fairly new to these engines and am not sure where to go from here.. thanks in advance

 

There are lots of thing to do to your truck TxDiesel007 has a pretty good post covering many things with the fuel pump, like fuel plate, star wheel, afc housing. For now you can slide your afc housing forward and tinker with the aneroid. Although there is no such thing as a bit more power, once you start your hooked.

 

at the risk of sounding ignorant, what exactly is the afc? i am a technician but the shop i work in does not work on diesels at all and this is the first one i have ever owned so i am still trying to learn

 

Do a search on "free mods", should come up with some stuff. And like said TxDiesel007 will give you the standard welcome post with some info.

 

Heres a link to one thread about the free mods.https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=12v+free+mods

There is tons more reading and some good info here, just have to search around a bit.
Dont forget... gauges first (EGT & boost) then more power. Oh yeah... get a shop manual for your truck(factory preffered). Even a cheap haynes or chiltons is better than nothing, it will help you identify things better.

Do the 3Gsk mod, grind the fuel plate, slide plate fwd as desired and AFC housing all the way fwd with the starwheel loose and you wont believe its the same truck. Setting the timing up requires special tools that are not cheap, so its not really a "free mod" (unless you know a buddy that has the tools).

BTW i am pleased to hear that the TV cable worked for you, wasnt doing me any good sittin around in a box.

 

To get more power out of your truck the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix. At the very least a Pyro, a boost gauge is really nice to have, and if you have an auto, a tranny temperature gauge as well.

A governor spring kit, referred to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow power band from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governor arm adjustment and your plate positioning.

A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100, 10 and a zero plate
This is a 100 plate right here...

More commonly referred to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 11, 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flat plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and you loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flat, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real pain to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...

The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown solenoid (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those you will notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move the shutdown solenoid out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..

When you are in there its simple, you just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. Sliding it forward of the stock position will net you more power, sliding it back will reduce the power.

Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it. Having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS. As you are putting the AFC housing back on you will notice that you can also slide it forward and backwards a bit as well, sliding it forward increases the low end fueling as well.

To increase the boost you will usually have to plug the wastegate line, it is the one that goes to the wastegate from the back of the AFC housing, you can get a boost elbow from many different vendors to increase the boost, or some just disconnect the line and plug it by clamping a screw in the end of the hose to keep anything from going in the hose.

Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.

Which plate is right for you? A 10 is generally considered the best all around plate, many guys run a 100 for a little more to end, and guys that drag race and such tend to like the really heavy low end fueling of the zero plate.

There is no one setup that works for everyone, you may have to make some adjustments to the plate, AFC position, or starwheel to get it set to your liking and needs as far as power, responsiveness, and smoke.

Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto. And your EGTs will tell you when you need an intake and exhaust to help keep the temps down. Neither of them will gain you power alone, but they can help you get more from the fuel that you already have.

The next step is usually advancing the timing, which requires more advanced skills, and special tools.


This is a cleaned up version of the writeup Rick cut and pasted together. It tought me and many others the basics, and I tried to neaten it up a bit one night when I couldn't sleep.

 

One addition on the fuel plate install, you might need to adjust your governor arm, I know mine had to be.

 

guys i appreciate the info. i will let ya'll know as the work progresses. i have a pretty good shop program as far as repair info goes but it doesn't say much as far as mods go. i am working on a set of guages now so that will be first, then we'll see about the injectorump

 

I always forget that that step because I didn't have to do mine, I just checked it, and it hit right at the tip of the hook Took a few seconds, and on to the next step.

 

Mine drove like a whole different truck when I adjusted that!

 

Was it diving under? Where is your plate in the pump? I have mine in the center of the pump. I forgot to mark my stock position I have wondered before if I didn't have to adjust my arm to make it hit correctly because the plate is not way forward.

 

Yeah it was getting caught under the plate. Now my plate is full forward. I'm not sure where it was when I bought it, the previous owner installed it. I slid it forward and then adjusted the gov arm after.