getblown5.9

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1

RowJ

Put them at .010 and .020... +/- 0. Your engine will thank you for it!

RJ

Mike Holmen

I use one of the bolts of the air horn. Make sure that the injector that you pull out as the copper washer on it. It suck try to install a new injector that has an old copper washer in the tube. Remember to pull out the injector connector tubes abit or else you'll be buying new injector connector tubes. I push the injector in then tighten up the adjuster nut on the injector line. Wiggle the injector to fine the point which you can get the most of the tube into it. Tighten up the 5/16 nut on the cap for the injectors. Back off the adjuster nut to allow for bleed the injector line afterwards. You can do a set in 1-2hrs. Its a little easier than a VP swap but it's close.

the_fox_man4

well guys, the diesel gods didn't play in my favor yesterday, it was a 10 hour install including the time it went to go buy a New toqure wrench that read in IN pounds. in rual MN thats not a fun task at 3pm of a satuday afternoon. 10 auto parts stores and 70 miles each way and I had my self a new craftman digital toqure meter. it a new toy. after that got the truck together way to easy. I didn't have to remove the rear rocker arm to get the #6 injector out. but I did have one heck of I time getting the fuel prime back. I ended up putting a wd40 soaked rag in the intake. and cranking it over with the injector lines off. Two dead batterys later. I hooked it up to a charger and a running gas 2500. just trying to get it to prime. what finnaly worked was line by line to bleed them one at a time. with short 2 second cranking bursts. So my truck is up and running, with 2 now wasted batterys and a check engine light that I will have to get rest, I am sure it say's low voltage and over cranking. looks like a good time to get them to enable the high idle on my truck.

BigBlue

Told ya you'd need em to help you prime the truck back. Glad to hear that everything is up and running.

RowJ

Well done. Sounds like the batteries might not have made it through the winter anyway?

Check engine light will go out by itself, after 10 (?) starts, if problem does not re occur. If you can, find someone in your area with a Smarty, to try. Nice to experience what they are like....and the 'High Idle' will stay on your truck, after you return to Stock settings. Just a cheaper suggestion

RJ

getblown5.9

maybe its due to my FASS pump but ive done the injectors twice in my truck as well as removing all the lines when i rebuilt the head. when it went back together i tightened EVERYTHING up except the #1, 3, and 4 injector lines. cranked it for 10-15 second until fuel came out of those 3 lines. tightened them all up, cranked again for less than 10 seconds and it was running. it loped and idled funny for about 30 seconds then smoothed out and was good to go.

might want to check your lift pump to make sure its putting out enough fuel.

Diesel-Dan

Its actually getting the engine at TDC (Via the mark on the timing gear for the VP trucks). Setting the valves on ceritan cyls.....then spin the Crank 360*....1 full turn....or where the TDC mark is stright down (6 o'clock) on the timing gear. Do a search on this....its all over DTR.....i had to look it up a few weeks ago when i did the shop trucks valves....didnt take 4 mins to find.

Diesel-Dan

ALSO...another hint on this for primeing:

Use that lift pump! Once you get the line back on the VP, start bumping the engine. I do this about 10-12 times (Or more) to get the fuel up to the injectors. (Takes less power to run the LP then the starter. AND the ECM is reducing the duty cycle of the LP to 25% when cranking...so you are not getting full flow to the injecors....hence the dead batts.) I leave #2 #3 #4 loose. I bump until I see fuel come out of any of them. Then i crank until i see fuel pulses. On the injector lines i see pulses, i tighten them up. Then crank. It will start to hit. Once it hits on at least on cyl, tighten up all lines and start to crank. Should catch very quickly after this. Let it run for about one min.....if still rough....blip the thottle and it should smooth out. I dont think i have used either or "gas on a rag" in 2 years to get one going.

getblown5.9

thats exactly what i said without clarifying that it takes a full turn to get it to BDC or 6 o'clock

Diesel-Dan

HAHA...yeah...i saw that...but most prob would have turned the crank 180* and been in a world of a mess....just added what you ment to say

Mike Holmen

I typically just bleed each injector line by itself until fuel comes out of the line. Tighten up the line, open the next one. Usually it only takes about three lines to bleed out the system. You do have to crank the motor to get the injection pump to pump fuel. The LP only pushes fuel to the injection pump. You need more than 20-30psi to get the injector to squirt into the cylinder. I've never used a torque wrench on my adjuster nuts. I just tighten until the fuel stops coming out. Then one 1/8 turn to finish her off. Your batteries must be in rough shape if they couldn't crank your motor more than 10 cranks. You can try the three clicks on/off and pause with your ignition key to see your codes. It will come up as a number and you'll have to check with dodge or look on the web for the diagnostic message.

RowJ

Don't think the key trick works on a 99... does it?
Thought it was only 01's & newer.

RJ

getblown5.9

you are correct

Diesel-Dan

The lift pump will force fuel through the IP and up through the lines if you bump it long enough. You don’t need to crank the engine to get the fuel to the injectors initially. But I do agree that the Batt’s were in sorry shape if they didn’t last more then 10 cranks…..