Looking for a helping hand here , may the diesel gods watch or my baby as I install the midwest fuel injection 300hp injectors on. saturday morning. I have never opened the valve cover up and taken a look. I have the shop service instructions but are there any of you out there, with any tips. also If I really get in over my head there anyone that lives in south western MN. so I hope that all of your prayers to the black smoke gods will be for a safe recovery from this install

 

3/4" crowfoot for the back two injector lines or a 3/4" stubby wrench.

Jake

 

There is step by step instructions and even a tool list on diesel dynamics website. I have it in my hand printed off. It is a .pdf file though, so you need adobe reader (free download off the net if you don't).

I'll see if I can find it for you and post a link on edit.

**FOUND IT - Here you go
http://www.lib.uaa.alaska.edu/~tibor...structions.pdf

 

You don't need the diesel gods to install them. What you need them for is getting the truck fired back up after installing them. That's where the nerve wracking part is for me.

 

id post my steps that ive used for the past 2 years with multiple swaps, but someone will come in here and tell you how you dont need to do some of the steps and not to waste your 5 minutes moving something out of the way that makes it 10x easier for a guy on his first time. so i'll just say good luck.

BTW- if you weigh more than 150lbs you will need to move certain things to get your larger than average hands in there to work.

 

Heck I'm a buck 45 and I have to move all sorts of things out of the way to get things done and I've done 3 or 4 sets.

 

I just swapped out my injectors. Most difficult problem was getting something on the #6 injector line nut at the very rear of the engine. Large electrical plugs mounted to the bottom of cowl are in the way. You can get a short crow's foot or flare nut wrench on it, but you probably won't be able to turn it off or tighten it without more leverage. I finally "fabbed" a tool - a 3/8 ratchet with a 3/4 crow's foot, duct-taped inside an 18 inch iron pipe. The length of the pipe allows you to "stand off" from the cowl and actually see what you're doing, and you can get a low angle around the electrical plugs. Used it to break the nut free and do the final tightening on it, used a short flare nut wrench to turn it out and in.

 

All good advice above! If your just getting into working on your truck...buy yourself an early x-mas present...a set of metric 'Stubby' wrenches (with up to a 19 mm).
They will come in handy a hundred times over and make the back two injector lines a walk in the park.
Some directions say you don't have to remove injector lines, but IMO, it's safer... and more professional, to do so!

Good luck

RJ

 

It's not that bad. I just did mine a couple months ago. The hardest part for me was getting the valve cover off. It's really a squeeze. Also, when the valve cover came out, some dust from the firewall heat shield fell all into the valvetrain. I tried to clean it out as best I could and then changed the oil after running for a few days.

I would also try to get some bent nose pliers. They were very helpful in removing the injectors.

Brad

 

I just put in a set of customer provided rv275's........fuel leaks, engine miss. Hasn't been a fun ordeal. I've installed a few sets, but this one went totally stupid on me. I did note some "funny" things on the install. No part number on the injectors..... O rings fit the groove loose and were not the same diameter as OEM.... I'm currently waiting for the company he's dealing with to send out one injector and I ordered some Cummins o-rings and will be replacing all the cross tubes while I'm in there for a second time.

I tuck in a paper floor mat over the rear of the valve cover. This will protect the insulation from tearing on valve cover removal and dropping a bunch of krap in your engine.

 

My Uncle found the best thing to remove the injectors is a bolt. Same thread, of course, as the injector.

 

The valve cover bolts work perfect for this. I just learned how to do this last weekend. Just remember, when you go to break the bolts loose on the rear engine lift eye, (you can do it with it on, but I took it off, permanently) watch your elbow when they break loose. I think I seriously cracked something. It still hurts 6 days later. And have Big Blue come do it if he is a buck 45, 'cause my 205 butt hardly fits anywhere anymore!

 

ok thanks or all of the hits and tips for changing out the injectors. I will be giving it a go tommrow morning . on of you mencined adjesting the valves while I am in there anyone have the proper cold valve lash handy I have the exhaust at .020 but whats the intake. there any toqure specs on the valve cover or intake bolts that are removed. sorry about all the newbie questions My service manual is still in the mail and won't be here for a week or so ..

 

.010 on the intake...but the accepted range is so large its hard to not get them right.

you know about setting the engine at TDC (12 o'clock) and doing the intake/exhaust valves on 3 cylinders, then turning over to 6 o'clock and doing the ones that are remaining?

 

There's a really good write up in the tech section at the top of the page on adjusting the valves.