My brother has a 99 dodge and it has the 53 block. Awhile back it cracked and we had it welded back together from a guy here locally. Everything seems to be holdin up good. I plan on buyin the truck from him maybe this summer to make a pretty serious race/dyno truck out of it. Also, I have a 95 12v that I can get from my grandpa for pretty much nothing. The engine has 250,000 on it, but still runs. It would need a complete overhaul though. The truck is junk, I just want the motor and 47rh tranny. My question is this. Should I just get rid of the 24valve and build the 12 to put in the 99, or use the 12valve block and ppump on the 24valve? The second choice is what I'm thinking since the 24v already runs great, and I just don't wanna use the 53 block. Leme know what yall think

 

Also if I use the 24v, should I use the 47rh tranny or the 47re?

 

Use both engines and build a p pumped 24v.

 

Agreed^^^ I personnaly would never put alot of HP into a 53 block

 

Thats what I was thinking. I already wasn't going to use the 53 block, especially since its already cracked once. But I was just trying to figure out whether to scratch the 24v all together and use the 12, or use both. I thought the ppumped 24v would be best, I just wanted some of yalls opinions to make sure. Plus it'll take alot to get the 12v right. How hard is it to do a ppump conversion on a 24v?

 

Based on your sig, it looks like I'm looking into doing exactly what you're doing right now

 

Build a straight 12v.... Lots of parts readily available that are known to work. Less moving valve train components, larger valvestems that are not prone to breakage.

If you look around the guys going for big reliable HP are now building 12v over the hybrid p-pumped 24v.

 

I am bias to the 12V. They make more hp and parts are pretty easy to find. The biggest problem is these monsters like to run hot!

It also depends on what you are actually doing with this truck. If it will be strickly pull or drag truck I would go with the 12V. If I were building it to drive on the street it would be a 24V. 24's are alot more street friendly.

Just my thoughts!

 

Its gonna be a combination of a drag/dyno/street truck

 

Also, wouldn't it be easier to do the 24valve since the trucks computer and tranny are already setup for that motor? I know the 12 is all mechanical, and I also have the 47rh to go with it, but I just figured going back in with the same motor and tranny would be easier. Although it will be goin ppump, so no computer needed there. I guess in that case it really doesn't matter anyway.

 

I vote to run the 12v engine and just pull and dump the 24v. There is more room to massage the head in the 12v over a 24v. You could do the p pump 24v, but whats the point. Get a decent worked p7100 and build a good 12v for fun. It will last longer and run better than the 24v. The 12v head is better than the 24v and will take more abuse. You might even be able to sell off the 24v for more money, than the 12v. The RE47 can be set-up and be run on the 12v. You might have to figure out a way to get the tach to work. I find a 12v that has the second turbo drain and has the oil pressure transducer in the same location as the 24v. The later 12v blocks are the same as the 24v. You just need the engine rpm, TPS and tranny feedback cable for the tranny to work. The check engine light might not even come on due to the missing VP

 

Well that'll probably be easier. It really doesn't matter because either way I go the engine is gonna get torn down and rebuilt from the bottom up. I was just trying to figure out which one would be an easier swap, be most reliable, and make the most power. The 12 valve would probably be the easiest, I had just heard good things about the 24v ppumps too, so I didn't know which would be best

 

If you swap in the 12v, you have a 24v you can sell. If you p-pump the 24v, you now have parts you can sell. I think it would be easier to sell a full engine over loose parts. Electrical is easier on the p-pump, as it is just disconnect the VP and APPS and you're done (keep in mind, that is for a manual truck). Swapping in a 12v will be more difficult, since you now need to make the tach work, as well as the grid heaters. 47RH would be easier to setup, since you only need a TPS signal for the lockup converter. Especially if you swap engines, you should already have the TPS on the pump linkage.

I wouldn't say the 24v is any better for daily driving than a 12v. Both my trucks have 215 pumps, GSK's and 140-150hp injectors in them. The 12v has a little less timing. It runs about 50 degrees hotter on the pyro. The rest is pretty negligible.

 

Also...for a 1999, you need a tone wheel on the crank and a crank sensor in the block. Most 12v dont use the crank sensor....so you will need to find a STORM block or machine a hole in the NON STORM block to use the sensor...not a big deal...just something to keep in the back of your mind.

 

Alright thanks yall I appreciate it. I'll keep thinkin about out it till its time, and figure how I wanna go about it, but thanks for all your advice. I'll let you know once I get started, and I'm sure I'll have plenty more questions