Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 01:22 AM
  #181  
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From: s .e. pa.
hi all
what is the latest word on the flosser 9104 bulbs ?

any one using them and not haveing them burn out in a short time ???

is the alt putting out the correct voltage on the trucks that are havung a problem ???

thank you !
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 01:28 AM
  #182  
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From: Knoxville,TN
been running mine since i started this thread...didnt do anything but stick the bulbs in. havent had a single problem yet....no heat, flickering, going on and off, or the bulbs blowing. volts on my volt gauge read as high as the always have....14+
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 01:33 AM
  #183  
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From: s .e. pa.
also
i see some are installing 30 amp fuses ?

i would think that this would allow the wireing to get way hot and cause a melt down before blowing the fuse ??

the fuse is there to protect from a major problem if there is a short ,

30 amps would be for a no 10 wire i believe not good for a 14 gauge light wire ?
i would think 15 amps would be more than enough ?

why the fuses any way as mine came with a fuseable link wire ??

and i thought my harness was too short also untill i removed 1 or 2 of the factory tie wraps an now it is plenty long ??? over the rad it goes .
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 09:36 AM
  #184  
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Originally Posted by oldblues
hi all
what is the latest word on the flosser 9104 bulbs ?

any one using them and not haveing them burn out in a short time ???

is the alt putting out the correct voltage on the trucks that are havung a problem ???

thank you !
My truck was putting out the correct voltage and used the harness but they burned out. I switched back to Silverstars

Originally Posted by oldblues
also
i see some are installing 30 amp fuses ?

i would think that this would allow the wireing to get way hot and cause a melt down before blowing the fuse ??

the fuse is there to protect from a major problem if there is a short ,

30 amps would be for a no 10 wire i believe not good for a 14 gauge light wire ?
i would think 15 amps would be more than enough ?

why the fuses any way as mine came with a fuseable link wire ??

and i thought my harness was too short also untill i removed 1 or 2 of the factory tie wraps an now it is plenty long ??? over the rad it goes .
I had no problems with the length of the harness either. I assume the 30 amp fuse I added were to match the 30 amp relays on the harness.
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 01:51 PM
  #185  
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From: North Carolina
LMC harness works great, definitely a good improvement over stock lighting, especially with Flosser 100w/80w bulbs.

Only neg issue was harness length, I wish it was a foot longer, I had to splice and add some, I didn't like it to be stretched out tight.
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 07:09 PM
  #186  
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From: The Real Northern California
I've had my Flosser's for a year now with no problem! Also have the relays with the harness. I tried Silverstars first and they would burn out in just a few hours. Just my two cents.
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 09:31 PM
  #187  
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I got my headlight housings awhile ago. I just got the headlight only and it came with stock bulbs. Did not know that. I ordered the regular Silverstars too then decided to go all the way. I got the Silverstar Ultras locally today. I got the harness a few days ago.
I got new turn signal housings not long ago so I reused them. So now I have the Hunter combo set
This was a much needed upgrade for me. I know now why the call them silverstars! I ligned up to shoot a picture straight on and Im still seeing stars

Got mine here
Parts Train DG9402CCHL clear head lamp assembly only R&L with stock bulbs and I also purchased the regular silverstar$207.25 delivered.

Did not get them here
LMC was $199.95 for headlight assembly but was not clear if that had stock bulbs because they show them right below that for sale. That was before shipping.
Attached Thumbnails Let There Be Light!!!-_dsc8100_resize.jpg   Let There Be Light!!!-_dsc8099_resize.jpg   Let There Be Light!!!-_dsc8102_resize.jpg  
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 10:16 PM
  #188  
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From: s .e. pa.
hi
well now i am skeerd to go eather way as some have had trouble with flosser and others have trouble with silver stars ????

what to do , what to do now ????

prob try flosser9104 as they are cheeper an they dont get any cheeper than me !
keep em comming !
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 08:28 AM
  #189  
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Originally Posted by oldblues
hi
well now i am skeerd to go eather way as some have had trouble with flosser and others have trouble with silver stars ????

what to do , what to do now ????

prob try flosser9104 as they are cheeper an they dont get any cheeper than me !
keep em comming !
I think the problems with silverstar's wont be anymore than a stock bulb as they aren't a higher than stock wattage.


I am glad to hear flossers are working for guys tho.
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Old Dec 13, 2007 | 02:01 PM
  #190  
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I did a little soul searching and remembered Ohms law. One easy calculation on DC voltage is to divide that into your watts.
two 65 watt bulbs (high beam) is 130 watts.
divided at a nominal 12.8 volts show a 10.15625 amp draw.
However my truck idling is charging at 14.38 and varies a little.
Idle with head lights on with Silverstar Ultras and cab running lights it averages about 14.3+
that would be about 9.09 amps
So a 30amp fuse is not going to blow until something major shorts out!
Low beam would of course be less.
Im going now to get some good fuse holders and put 10 amp fuses on both high and low beam between the relays for now.
Somebody check me out on this but I think I will know after the "smoke" test
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Old Dec 13, 2007 | 02:38 PM
  #191  
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From: vevay, IN
I am having the same problem with my harness about the low bams and high beams. Where does the fog light harness come off the headlight harness at? And how would i make a harness for the foglights so they don't burn anything up? please help Mad as hell been dealing with the flossers and now back to stockers and doing the same crap all over again. Didnt start again til i put the bulbs back in the light housings.
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Old Dec 13, 2007 | 06:50 PM
  #192  
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From: Austria Europe
Originally Posted by DHunter
I did a little soul searching and remembered Ohms law. One easy calculation on DC voltage is to divide that into your watts.
two 65 watt bulbs (high beam) is 130 watts.
divided at a nominal 12.8 volts show a 10.15625 amp draw.
However my truck idling is charging at 14.38 and varies a little.
Idle with head lights on with Silverstar Ultras and cab running lights it averages about 14.3+
that would be about 9.09 amps
So a 30amp fuse is not going to blow until something major shorts out!
Low beam would of course be less.
Im going now to get some good fuse holders and put 10 amp fuses on both high and low beam between the relays for now.
Somebody check me out on this but I think I will know after the "smoke" test
You are right with your amps calc but-

if you measure the resistance across the pins of a bulb while it's cold you'll see a lot less resistance than expected.
A cold filament will draw much more amps than a hot one- and while designing your wiring you have to take into account that this higher draw at lower temperatures (of the filament) will also lead to a higher draw when the voltage is below 12V and the bulb is cold. On the other hand a fuse that is quite close to it's capacity will heat up and therefore increase it's resistance,lowering the voltage on the filament and increase the ampere draw of the filament. I think that 10 amps per bulb may be sufficient, but over here it would be typically 15amps fuses for a filament with a nominal 55W for the reasons stated above.

Just my 2c

AlpineRAM
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Old Dec 13, 2007 | 07:12 PM
  #193  
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Originally Posted by amustang91
I am having the same problem with my harness about the low bams and high beams. Where does the fog light harness come off the headlight harness at? And how would i make a harness for the foglights so they don't burn anything up? please help Mad as hell been dealing with the flossers and now back to stockers and doing the same crap all over again. Didnt start again til i put the bulbs back in the light housings.
See this quote from ealier for the fog light harness. I have all the parts just no time yet.

Originally Posted by haloman
http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...h/foglites.htm

Instead of a switch can I run the hot wire from the factory harness to pin 85 and run pin 86 to battery ground?

Should I run two relays or just wire the two powers together and tape up the other factory power wire?

And use this relay here?

Radioshack Relay
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Old Dec 14, 2007 | 01:53 AM
  #194  
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Originally Posted by AlpineRAM
You are right with your amps calc but-

if you measure the resistance across the pins of a bulb while it's cold you'll see a lot less resistance than expected.
A cold filament will draw much more amps than a hot one- and while designing your wiring you have to take into account that this higher draw at lower temperatures (of the filament) will also lead to a higher draw when the voltage is below 12V and the bulb is cold. On the other hand a fuse that is quite close to it's capacity will heat up and therefore increase it's resistance,lowering the voltage on the filament and increase the ampere draw of the filament. I think that 10 amps per bulb may be sufficient, but over here it would be typically 15amps fuses for a filament with a nominal 55W for the reasons stated above.

Just my 2c

AlpineRAM
Well I bought 10 and 15 amp fuses. It is only 39* here in Arkansas. Guess that sounds warm to you.
I also thought about if you do the holding the switch to have hi and low on for very long then you bump it up. I guess a road trip will be a good test. But 30 is way to high!Then if you are running the fogs off the same harness you got to add that in.
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Old Dec 14, 2007 | 10:09 AM
  #195  
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From: Missouri
Well just a lil more info for the thread. I bought some APC 9004 super whites at about 29.00 . These are 80/100 rated . Without the wiring harness they were terrible. Probably worse than stock. I ordered and installed the LMC harness. It definitely improved them but I still think i like the stock bulbs better. That bluish tint doesn't help a bit out in the country. Also just a bit worried what color a deers eyes are in blue light LOL. So i'm going back to the stock ones to see if they are any better with the harness. That suposed white light just doesn't seem to have the range of the yellowish light. I also have the walmart running lights installed on a separate swith. Their light is more "seeable" than the superwhites ever thought of being.
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