Injectors for stock turbo/clutch
#1
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Injectors for stock turbo/clutch
Whats about the biggest injector you can go with the stock turbo and clutch on a 24v with a no tap wire box?Somethin like a EZ, smarty, van aken ect.
I know RV275s but what else?
Jammer I or maybe even Jammer II?
What else is there out there??
Also when I say stock clutch, I mean a good clutch no crazy towin but some normal hot roddin.I was figurin a factory clutch would hold an extra 100 HP maybe.Also what can but done to the factory turbo short of a 40 hybrid setup?
I know RV275s but what else?
Jammer I or maybe even Jammer II?
What else is there out there??
Also when I say stock clutch, I mean a good clutch no crazy towin but some normal hot roddin.I was figurin a factory clutch would hold an extra 100 HP maybe.Also what can but done to the factory turbo short of a 40 hybrid setup?
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I'd say a set of Mach 1.6's would do the trick. I think these are rated at 90hp. Or the jammer line would be more cost effective. As for the stock turbo other than getting it turned into a hybrid, you could yank the ring, drill the wastegate divider, and put on a better intake. Maybe add a boost elbow too, but if you get a box it should come with one. Not sure about a VA though?
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I ran a Van Aaken box with the Jammer 3's and had no egt problems. If I keep the comp on level 1 or 2, egts are fine. Anything above that and things start to get pretty warm.
#5
Originally Posted by KVD
Also when I say stock clutch, I mean a good clutch no crazy towin but some normal hot roddin.I was figurin a factory clutch would hold an extra 100 HP maybe.Also what can but done to the factory turbo short of a 40 hybrid setup?
#6
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Originally Posted by KVD
What that bout the waste gate divider, never heard of that??
The solution is to drill out the divider between the 2 and allow the front cylinders to vent right to the exhaust when the wastegate opens.
I'm going to have to do this on my 2000 with its current setup, I'm hitting 37lbs of boost when the wastegate opens at 30lbs.
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Yeah my cousions 01 would slip the clutch with the comp on 5x5 but it wasnt to bad unless you lugged it down then got on it.
It just seemed to me that anything that added 120HP would slip the clutch I was thinkin if you could limit it back to 100HP it might work till I could get a south bend.
It just seemed to me that anything that added 120HP would slip the clutch I was thinkin if you could limit it back to 100HP it might work till I could get a south bend.
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#9
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Mine held running EZ and DD2s- towing!
It held with a power chip and 150hp injectors, too-- for almost a year.
But I don't tow, and my clutch has had a lot easier life than a truck that does tow.
Suffice it to say, clutch holding is a crap shoot, and it's just due diligence to half-expect to replace the clutch if adding more than 50hp or so.
jmo
It held with a power chip and 150hp injectors, too-- for almost a year.
But I don't tow, and my clutch has had a lot easier life than a truck that does tow.
Suffice it to say, clutch holding is a crap shoot, and it's just due diligence to half-expect to replace the clutch if adding more than 50hp or so.
jmo
#10
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Originally Posted by HOHN
Mine held running EZ and DD2s - towing!
Rusty
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My stock clutch held the Comp fine, even on 5x5. When I added RV275's it would slip. You could roll into the throttle and it would hold, but if you got into it without a slow roll at all, it would slip. With any significant power adders, you have to reinforce your drivetrain first to hold the power......auto or manual.
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