Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

Injector install

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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 08:45 PM
  #1  
wurkenman's Avatar
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From: Elk River, MN
Injector install

I will be installing a set of injectors and I have done a search but no results. I cant find anything in the tech section either. Just a quick question, is this as easy as it seems? I have never done this before, but it doesn't look that bad. Anything I should watch for , or any tips would be a big help. Thanks
Terry
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 09:52 PM
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From: East Millsboro, PA.
1.]Cut the insulation above the rocker cover out before pulling the cover off or you will have dust in the engine.
2.] The cover can easily be removed by bringing it out toward the passenger side, over the heater hose.
3.] The intake [air horn] must be removed to gain access to the injector lines.
4.] Loosen each line individually as you change each injector....don't try to take them all loose at once or you will fight them to line up.
5.] After the line is loose, The connector tubes can be removed by prying them out with a screw driver...make sure that you pry them out of the injector before removing the injector or you can damage them.
6.] If you don't have a puller, a bolt can be threaded into the top of the injector & you can pop the injectors out with a pry bar by prying the bolt.
7.] Lots of lube on the new injector oring seals before trying to install them into the bore, I use vasoline!
8.] Make sure that the hole in the side of the injector lines up with the connector tube before installing & push the connector tube into the bore before tightening the "hold down" bracket to spec.
9.] The #6 injector can be much easier to install if you remove your engine lift bracket.

Hope these tips help, I've changed 12 sets of injectors in my friends & relatives and my own truck & no problems yet using these methods.
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 09:57 PM
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From: Elk River, MN
Helps a lot. Thanks. I have worked on all of my own engines in everything I own, but I have never been inside a diesel before. I probably never would have either if I had not found this site
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 10:38 PM
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Its not to bad of a job, i took off half the fuel lines (clamped together) just to make it easier instead of fighting them. The bolt from the valve cover will screw in the top of the injector, and one good tug it should pull right out. To get her going again you gonna half to crack at least two fuel lines and crank till you get fuel through them.
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 09:49 PM
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Very helpful info........I too was wondering about the "special injector/tube pulling" tools that my book says u need

this is one slick site!!
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 09:58 PM
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This sounds a little ridiculous but I just wrote a paper on doing this, for an engineering class. I think it's like 7 pages with figures, pretty detailed. I can't guarantee that it will make it easier for you and don't accept any responsibility if your break your engine but if anybody needs it for reference I can email it to them. Anybody who wants it just shoot me a pm.
Hope this can help someone,
-Alex
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 10:11 PM
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From: Elk River, MN
Thanks PM sent. I thought it kind of odd, that with all the info on this site there was nothing I could find on this subject.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 07:54 AM
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From: East Millsboro, PA.
Originally Posted by Crazydave
Its not to bad of a job, i took off half the fuel lines (clamped together) just to make it easier instead of fighting them. The bolt from the valve cover will screw in the top of the injector, and one good tug it should pull right out. To get her going again you gonna half to crack at least two fuel lines and crank till you get fuel through them.
Another tip. You shouldn't have to crack any fuel lines, just bump the starter & you will hear the fuel pump run, bump again after it shuts off, then bump it again. When it shuts off this time, hold the pedal to the floor & the truck should fire right up if you have a good fuel pump.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 08:08 AM
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From: Fridley, MN
Originally Posted by J Lent
Another tip. You shouldn't have to crack any fuel lines, just bump the starter & you will hear the fuel pump run, bump again after it shuts off, then bump it again. When it shuts off this time, hold the pedal to the floor & the truck should fire right up if you have a good fuel pump.
That didn't work for me, i ran the lift pump many cycles and it would not fire until i bleed a couple fuel lines. I guess results will vary.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 10:18 AM
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JIT
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From: Tampa, Fl.
Originally Posted by Crazydave
That didn't work for me, i ran the lift pump many cycles and it would not fire until i bleed a couple fuel lines. I guess results will vary.
It has never worked for me either and I have 29psi at idle!
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 10:28 AM
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From: Airdrie Canada
watch for those pesky copper washers. Sometimes they stay in the head. I hate that #6 injector as it always stays in. If your lazy, just loosen the adjuster nut on the head so you can wiggle out the injector. If you don't loosen the nut up enough, you'll nick the connector tube and the injector body. I leave three connector nuts loose for priming. Tighten up one at time until you get fuel out of the tube. It helps during the start-up and reduces cranking. She will smoke and run rough until all the air is out of the system, after that you're in business. Some guys say they can pull injector in 1/2hr, I'm still at the 2-3hr mark. I've done once at 45minutes. A good three or four four beer job. Good luck. You can also check the lash on your valves, that quick one too.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 11:35 AM
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From: East Millsboro, PA.
Originally Posted by JIT
It has never worked for me either and I have 29psi at idle!
I've done many injector, Fuel filter, fuel pump & fuel line swaps on multiple trucks & it has worked every time. I have changed my fuel filter on jobsites & in Auto store parking lots never doubting that it will work. I am surprised that it hasn't worked for you guys.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 03:40 PM
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From: Elk River, MN
I got the job done. Thanks for everyones help. Took me about 2.5 hours, cuz I tend to be a little **** about working on my stuff. I did the Jammer stage 4 nozzles in my stock bodies. Thought I would try them to see if I might need a different size or whatever. Figured the price was right to do some experimenting. I bought a set of injectors a while back off ebay just to take apart and see what is inside of them, so I had new copper washers and O-rings from those. I would recommend to anyone doing this to use a small wrench that fits in the injector slot to get the supply tube line up while pushing the tube back in the head I turned the injector slightly with the wrench to align both parts then tightened the injector hold, then the fuel line.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 08:40 PM
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From: East Millsboro, PA.
Glad we could help, but did you have to bleed the lines?
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 09:00 PM
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From: Elk River, MN
Originally Posted by J Lent
Glad we could help, but did you have to bleed the lines?
Nope, just let the LP run then turned it over. Did this maybe three times and then it fired. Took about 20-30 seconds for it to settle down and run smooth. Also seems to idle better. Maybe it was time to change injectors anyway. For 270 dollars I am way happy with the outcome. Rolls out the smoke now on my high setting and of course my little stock turbo it begging for mercy
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