I am looking for a boost leak and found one of the manifold bolts leaking so I fixed it, but in the process found that every boot leaks a little no matter how much I tighten them, they only produce very small bubbles and look to be very slow will it matter that much?

 

Better if there are no leaks. My experence is that if you do nothing most leaks get worse before they get better.

 

All your doing is losing power and "pick up" speed in a sense when you have any size boost leak. The truck will not respond as fast and turbo lag will be much greater. I would replace the boots and get your truck back up to par.

 

What kind of boost are you seeing?

 

well my boost numbers are low right now due to MAp sensor problem (i hope) I have chased every thing back to that, being the original problem I had was I have a miss during WOT runs and am getting the 0237 code. Even with the wastegate blocked I can only hit 36 psi and the turbo is set to open at 42-44 psi I did have a couple large leaks on the manifold but it didn't help alot in increasing the boost #'s although it did clean up some smoke. Hopefully the map is causing the problem if not it's the comp box, if it's not that time for a match.

 

Cummins says that with the system pressurized to 30 psi, it should drop no more than 7 psi in 15 seconds. Less than that is OK by them.

 

How would a person make sure all the valves are closed to do that?

 

You would plug it at the horn going into the manifold and the outlet of the turbo, then test it. The small gasket leaks at the manifold aren't going to hurt you enough to even notice on the boost gauge. If it really bothers you, pull the intake manifold plate and get a new gasket.

With a stumble it may be the Comp box.. JHansen has some fun with his a while back.. Rattle his chain in Red Deer on the 20th..

 

I have the tester hooked to the turbo already,isn't their a way to turn the engine so that all the intake vavles are closed so a person could test the whole system under pressure? It's just not as easy as pulling a spark plug out that's all, I guess one would have to pull an injector to get TDC. The leaks aren't on the manifold they are on every connecting boot but I don't think they would equate to a loss of 7 psi in 15 seconds or at least I don't think they would. As far as the box goes this is my 2nd already with the same problem arising as the first so I am not totally new to this but I am chasing all options just the same. The MAP sensor wiring harness voltage and Ground check throught the ECM both met factory specs so I guess I'll try a new MAP sensor being that is what the fingers are pointing to.

 

With the 6 cylinder firing order, there is not a way to have all the intake valves closed. It would be easier to block the intake horn at the grid heater with a solid piece of gasket..