Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

Getting ready to purchase a cam plate and GSK

Old Feb 20, 2007 | 10:46 AM
  #1  
pcarlson's Avatar
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From: Chagrin Falls, OH (cleveland)
Getting ready to purchase a cam plate and GSK

I am trying to decide which fuel plate to purchase.

The chart at PDW and TST indicate that a #6 plate will provide 230 hp and 605 ftlb of torque.

# 5 will provide 255 and 650 however it is not rated for highway use. In addition, the factory tranny will not support this power.

I have several questions:
1. I plan to upgrade the tranny. If I don't hammer on the throttle, the number 5 plate should not damage my tranny, correct?

2. The # 5 is not epa certified for highway use. does this mean I will not pass emissions tests?

3. which gsk kit should I choose 3000 or 4000 and why?

4. where should I set the timing.

I want to get as much power out of the truck with the modifications I'm doing, and I don't want to do work, or spend money twice. Thanks for the help!

pc
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 10:57 AM
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From: woodford co, Kentucky
If you stay of it i'm sure you'll be able to save the tranny for a while until you upgrade it. We dont have any emissions testing down here in KY so i cant help you there. What kind of exhaust are you running? As for GSK 3k will be fine for you.... i think a lot of people suggest valve train upgrades when running 4k.
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 11:06 AM
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From: Saskatoon, Sk, Canada
Have you considered a 10 plate and a 3K GSK? The 10 plates are very tuneable with positioning and governor lever adjustments. Power comes on a little later which gives the tranny some time to build up pressure to hold the power. Fuel is cut back a bit at higher RPM's to control EGT's.

Or you could grind your stock plate into a 10 or 100 and get a boost elbow. Save some cash......
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 11:37 AM
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To give you some idea of what I have, check out my sig...pretty much identical truck as yours. I just ground down my plate to a 0... I can easily keep EGT's down, along with boost, with just an easy foot. The only thing I have noticed is that the tranny temps are a little higher if I get into it even once, but the TC and shift kit should solve that.

Once I get the TC and shift kit, it gonna be injectors, DV's, 4K GSK, and eventually billet shafts... cause with all that power, I'll need them!
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 12:41 PM
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pcarlson's Avatar
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From: Chagrin Falls, OH (cleveland)
I would grind my own

except if I need to go back to stock to pass emissions I would be sol.....

The 10 or 0 seems like a common choice, but why not get more hp for the same money. I know the tranny can't hold it now, but someday my built tranny will be able to.

it seems like you are saying that the fuel gets to the engine sooner on a # 5 then a # 10.

I've searched and read alot about fuel (cam) plates, but there seems to be no summary of the different plates other than the HP/ft lbs.

Can somone provide a link, or type something up that describes the performance characteristics of each plate?

Thanks
pc
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 12:44 PM
  #6  
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From: Chagrin Falls, OH (cleveland)
stock exaust

sorry, forgot to answer the question.
pc
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 01:37 PM
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From: Saskatoon, Sk, Canada
There's a good picture of all plate profiles in this thread. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...plate+profiles

The plate basically holds the gov arm back changing fueling as the arm moves up the plate. The farther ahead the gov arm goes, the more fueling you get. If you compare the #5 and # 10 profiles, you'll see the #10 ramps up a bit slower and limits fuel on the top end more than the #5. Hense, the later power and cooler EGT's at high RPM.

Most people tend to ignore the TST charts because they're based on the plate in the stock position. Plate and gov arm positions really affect the way the truck performs.

FWIW, I swapped a #8 with the #10 and have no regrets what-so-ever.
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 02:50 PM
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From: Buffalo, NY
A 0 plate is full fule all the time...the lower the number the harde it fuels...except with a 100, which is a hybrid between a 10 and a 0 (thats where the 100 comes from). I cut my plate flat with a ban saw, and I kept the stock part that I cut off, if need be, I can always weld the stock part of the plate back onto the 0, or just find a junked motor and pull the stock plate from a junkyard.

I wouldn't change a thing about my 0 plate... except the tranny problems I'm gonna start noticing more and more...
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 06:38 PM
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If you look at my Sig you see a #10 an a 3K. Really woke the truck up! The plate by itself was not a big difference but adding the GSK - WOW.

Oh yea I have passed our emissions test as well but it is only a visual inspection for smoke at idle.
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 07:31 PM
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From: florida
save yourself some misery and build your tranny first. If the info Ive heard is correct the stock engine will move it nicely with better torque converter and valve body. I hear these can be had for about $1200 and $400 respectively.

I did the same thing you are doing and my truck is a slug. It could be making 1,000 hp but you wouldnt know it. They tell me its' the torque converters fault.

my .02

lewis
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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 05:36 AM
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From: Ct.
I agree 10 plate and a 3k gsk will make the truck like new then get a little timing bump and you will be happy! Just be aware that if the trans is weak these mods will spell the end......
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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 07:00 AM
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From: dfw texas
emmision can be passed with just pulling back the afc. the plate does not have anything to do with it till you start building boost and the afc gets pushed out of the way. i say grind a #100 profile and put in a gsk.
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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 08:10 AM
  #13  
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From: Saskatoon, Sk, Canada
Originally Posted by Sidewinder
If you look at my Sig you see a #10 an a 3K. Really woke the truck up! The plate by itself was not a big difference but adding the GSK - WOW.
I'll never forget the first time I floored my truck after putting in the GSK. In about 2 seconds my brain was screaming SHIFT OUT OF FIRST!!!! I had to back out of it and get my you-know-what together.
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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 08:18 AM
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From: Laredo
Originally Posted by gunracer1
emmision can be passed with just pulling back the afc. the plate does not have anything to do with it till you start building boost and the afc gets pushed out of the way. i say grind a #100 profile and put in a gsk.
I agree with this

Simple experimenting with a modded AFC netted me the same results. Full forward on a modded AFC i had smoke at idle, (white) i backed it off as little as halfway and the smoke stopped, as did the gagging from the AFC full forward.

100 plate is the most versatile plate you can have imho, if you dont tow its great, but if you do tow alot and dont like to watch a pyro then go with a 10, I tow with a 100, have with a single and now with twins, and with twins i really dont have to watch the pyro as much... and with a single, it wasnt too bad if u just let the truck do the work...

Far as a GSK goes, id say go with the 4K without the springs. ive had taht for a while on my truck, and even tho i dont use all 4K RPMS, (3200 max for shifting) its nice to have for the extra 5 bucks that its worth,

AS stated timing, GSK and plate = the feel of a whole new truck... but the trans will suffer... I killed my stock clutch with 370s and 16.5 degrees alone...

Rick
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 08:29 AM
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Advise

100plate and 3gsk. My truck runs just as it should with perfect egts.
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