gauge help for twins
gauge help for twins
would this be too many gauges?
boost gauge on engine intake,
boost gauge between primary and secondary turbos,
boost gauge for drive pressure in manifold (what psi for this anyways?),
boost gauge for drive pressure between turbos? necissary?
EGT gauge on manifold
EGT between turbos
EGT after turbos
I already have 2 probes for my EGT hooked up to pre and post turbo on my single setup, and they are hooked to a switch so I can view either or. so I can just get another probe and get a 3 way switch and hook it up the same way. do I need all of this or will it help with setting up everything?
boost gauge on engine intake,
boost gauge between primary and secondary turbos,
boost gauge for drive pressure in manifold (what psi for this anyways?),
boost gauge for drive pressure between turbos? necissary?
EGT gauge on manifold
EGT between turbos
EGT after turbos
I already have 2 probes for my EGT hooked up to pre and post turbo on my single setup, and they are hooked to a switch so I can view either or. so I can just get another probe and get a 3 way switch and hook it up the same way. do I need all of this or will it help with setting up everything?
The only place you need to be worried about EGT is prior to the first turbo. Some guys go with after turbo pyrometers, but you have to figure the EGT is always 300 degrees hotter than the gauge reads in that case. I have never lost a probe through an exhaust engine on a turbo yet, but that is a worry for some folks. If you use an after turbo pyrometer on a dual setup, then you have to add about 480 degrees to the downstream reading to approximate real EGT, and then only when the engine and exhaust is fully hot. Any other time it is pretty useless.
There is no need for a boost gauge anywhere but on the intake plenum itself. You really do not care about boost in the lines or somewhere between two turbos. That last statement does have to be qualified a bit. If you are using a high fueling rate, and have dual turbos, then I would have an overpressure valve installed to prevent turbo stall and the potential for detonating the compressor on the first turbo. If you have not modified the pump and injectors significantly, do not worry about it, and then that begs the question as to why dual turbos in the first place?
As far as your air pressure for boost, that will depend on your fueling rate. A good rule of thumb, and it is very accurate up to about 1250 degrees of EGT, is that you should see 11 horses for each pound of manifold pressure. With a zero plate (100 in your case) on a 95 pump, a good set of cut delivery valves, 370 injectors, and timing at 19.5 degrees, I would expect you to never be able to top 40 psi with a good set of dual turbos or you will be putting a lot of stress on the headbolts. I would expect you should be seeing somewhere between 31-39 with a single OEM turbo at full load and full fueling rate if you have installed modified delivery valves and bigger injectors. Stock delivery valves and injectors will maybe get you between 28-34, but that is a guess and really dependent on timing.
If you stud your head, install a good exhaust manifold, use fire rings and a copper headgasket, and severely modify your pump you can see 80 psi on the intake plenum at times. Try that with stock headbolts and gasket and you will see a tow truck long before you get much above 40!
There is no need for a boost gauge anywhere but on the intake plenum itself. You really do not care about boost in the lines or somewhere between two turbos. That last statement does have to be qualified a bit. If you are using a high fueling rate, and have dual turbos, then I would have an overpressure valve installed to prevent turbo stall and the potential for detonating the compressor on the first turbo. If you have not modified the pump and injectors significantly, do not worry about it, and then that begs the question as to why dual turbos in the first place?
As far as your air pressure for boost, that will depend on your fueling rate. A good rule of thumb, and it is very accurate up to about 1250 degrees of EGT, is that you should see 11 horses for each pound of manifold pressure. With a zero plate (100 in your case) on a 95 pump, a good set of cut delivery valves, 370 injectors, and timing at 19.5 degrees, I would expect you to never be able to top 40 psi with a good set of dual turbos or you will be putting a lot of stress on the headbolts. I would expect you should be seeing somewhere between 31-39 with a single OEM turbo at full load and full fueling rate if you have installed modified delivery valves and bigger injectors. Stock delivery valves and injectors will maybe get you between 28-34, but that is a guess and really dependent on timing.
If you stud your head, install a good exhaust manifold, use fire rings and a copper headgasket, and severely modify your pump you can see 80 psi on the intake plenum at times. Try that with stock headbolts and gasket and you will see a tow truck long before you get much above 40!
If it were me, I'd keep the boost in the intake, and EGT in the manifold. Otherwise, you can put all the other gauges on a temporary panel for testing and tuning or diagnosing. It's a bit too much to watch.
Originally posted by nevrenufhp
If it were me, I'd keep the boost in the intake, and EGT in the manifold. Otherwise, you can put all the other gauges on a temporary panel for testing and tuning or diagnosing. It's a bit too much to watch.
If it were me, I'd keep the boost in the intake, and EGT in the manifold. Otherwise, you can put all the other gauges on a temporary panel for testing and tuning or diagnosing. It's a bit too much to watch.
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Here is a reason why........
This WRECK proves that too many guages can be a bigger distraction than a cell phone(which is in the exhaust pipe)
TOO MANY GAUGES ON EBAY
TOO MANY GAUGES ON EBAY
Originally posted by swank
hey lance, did you get a chance to read my last post? sometime this morning. if not, i will redo.
hey lance, did you get a chance to read my last post? sometime this morning. if not, i will redo.
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