Hey Gunracer,
How does the Piers kit compare w/ what we've done? What I mean is: Is the throttle REALLY touchy w/ the Piers kit? I can just barely press the throttle on mine and it'll rev to 2K. A little on the touchy side. If this isn't the norm, then I suspect that my gov. was played with prior to my tinkering. The stud protruded above the nut .056", but I've read that it should be right at .050". Think that would make the difference I'm seeing in the throttle responce?
Like I said before, the washers let my little 175HP pump free-rev to 3600RPM, and easily pull to 3200 under load (my poor, poor stock clutch!).
I'm wondering if I should go back in and back the nuts off a notch, but don't wanna if there's no positive result.I was meticulous in measuring the stud protrusion before and after the washers were installed.

 

BTW, what are you all using for a tool to remove the nut?
I had a couple of those 3/8 drive Snap-on sockets that look like a HUGE flat blade screw driver. I just narrowed it a little, then notched the center to clear the stud. I'm thinking about hunting down another socket like that one and making a better version, since I kinda got one side too narrow, causing it to not bite too well.

 

I just did this to a friend's truck this weekend. His was pretty touchy, but not like a 4k GSK. It didn't feel abnormally responsive for a 3k truck. Preload on his was pretty loose though - only 0.035.

We used a set of needle nose pliers this time - being careful not to squeeze them together and booger up the threads. If I was gonna do a bunch of these I'd just use a pair I didn't care about and put a dab of weld on the joint.

 

i did 2 washers per side on my truck, it was really to much, it didn't help it anymore than the one. i want to get my pump built and the flyweights cut lighter. my truck will rev above 4k in gear going down the road but not free rev very well at all. it still has a fuel pump issue, i have 0psi at full boost so i will have to fix that before i do anything else.

 

So, it sounds like most of you guys have a man. trans.? What will a 3k kit do to an auto? What can I expect to feel and see w/ a 3k GSK?

 

I have an Auto w/ 3.55 rear gears.

Got a chance to tow for the first time since doing this and I loved it. I could actually get near a hill I knew I would need 3rd for at 65mph hit the OD off button and maintain 65mph the whole way.

Likewise, from a stop it's nice once I get it in 3rd/locked, I can accelorate past 60-65mph and then activate OD to maintain a decent RPM. Truck is MUCH easier to get moving from a stop too.

Joel

 

I did it to my truck with the help of wannadiesel.

I was out last night out of overdrive locked up and doing about 70mph at 3100 waiting for 3200 to shift into overdrive when out of nowhere the rear wheels lock up and the engine shoots to over 4000 RPM and pegs the tach blows black smoke everywhere. That was the first time that has happened and runs and drives like normal what could have happened scared to turds out of me. at least it kept moving. I think it may have down shifted to second gear or slipped realllllllly bad.

let me know, i am going sunday to maple grove to drag my truck and i dont want it to happen again.

Thanks
Cody

 

I'd say you guessed right on it kicking down. My advice... DON'T DO THAT!!!
Maybe you could adjust the TV cable to get it to stop?

 

i bet that did get your attention, but it does sound like it just kicked down.

 

Underneath your pump is the throttle rod shorten it up a hair and that'll reduce the touchyness of the go pedal. As I recall the sleeve in the center is slightly "s" shaped and there is a jamb nut on both sides of it. If ya got big forearms they're gonna be bleedin when your done!

 

What about using aluminum?
Would it be too soft and wearout?
I was thinking something lighter might let it rev more.
I know someone who could punch out shims from sheet metal.
I could try varying thicknesses that way.

 

can I get a quick step by step on this and a needed tool list? also any other adjustments needed with the TV cable, the throttle linkage or anything? full throttle stop?

and whats this talk about preload? do I need to preload somethin?

 

I did this mod a little bit ago and WOW what a difference! I just need to remember to keep an eye on my EGT gauge now, it never went over 1100 before and when I was test driving it after the washer install I glanced at it and it said 1450! I ended up using 3 washers on each one, but they were thin washers totalling about .09"

 

I'm working on making an article of how to do it & all(with pictures). It's a couple days away still.

 

I did the 1/2" washers (.070 thick) today on a 97 5 spd. Now it wants to hang up above 2k rpm. I didn't try anything above that since results could be interesting to say the least. To get back to idle, I have to turn the key off. Then restart. It idles at around 700 rpm when you start it, when taken to 1500 rpm, it heasitates about 2 or 3 seconds the drops back to 700, however when taken above 2k, it hangs up.

When installing the washers, I thought I was careful to put things back to the original positions.

I'm thinking I need to either add a click or two, or back off same amount. Any suggestions?