free GSK for the p pump bunch
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 65
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From: Covington Ohio
Yes you can buy the kit $125, or like some of us grab 2 3/8 washers $0.15. Tinkering with it is half the fun, and you might get lucky and get it right the first time. leaveing $124.75 to go for the 4KGSK, when 3200 rpm gets boring. Its a great mod that everyone should do one way or the other. Your P-pumped Cummins will love you for it!
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 66
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From: Frankfort, Ohio
I had lockup problems with mine,,, never wanted to stay locked in , seems the pedal is alot lighter after doing it,, what i did was put in a pot in the tps ground wire,, had to turn it up from 1.2 volts to 1.5 volts,, now the convertor locks and stays locked even down at 55 mph,, One thing to think about, being you move the voltage up, it may kick code 24 ,, saying TPS voltage is to high,, mine it didnt do it, but my friends it did kick the code,,, no big deal tho reall,, just know it is there is all
Also by turning up the tps,, now my lockup comes at 55 mph and not like the 48-50 mph it did it before
Also by turning up the tps,, now my lockup comes at 55 mph and not like the 48-50 mph it did it before
What is "pot"? this is exactly what my truck is doing...and i have played with the throttle bar i thought that adjusted the voltage. but people says it doesnt so yea what is POT? they say they install it in the ground wire...? also how do you check voltage??
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 216
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From: Modesto, CA
A pot is a potentiometer (variable resistor with 3 or more lugs/connections). Most people just say pot out of habit & not knowing the right term. What they're really using is a rheostat (same resisting, but with 2 connections).
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 66
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From: Frankfort, Ohio
ok i understand the pot and everything. i was wondering if there is any way you dont have to have a ****? just sumthing that would bump up the volts on the tps? just my thoughts? thanks in advance
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 66
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From: Frankfort, Ohio
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How do i reset the voltage..??? i know of the potentiometer but i dont want to install that thing unless i have to...? I ahve adjusted the throttle bar? i have played with the springs? how can i get that dang voltage up?? and also how do i check the voltage??
when i started this thread i wanted to get some of the guys that do there on mods some free stuff. this has turned out better than i expected, many on this board have learned a bunch from this thread. heck i even learned a little bit from it. i still have not reset my tps [up to 1.5volts from 1.2 at rest] that would keep me locked up better while cruising at 60 or so. and i got that from one of the members that did the mod.
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Joined: Mar 2006
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I stalled the washer mod tonight, afterwords.
I fired the truck up, Idled about 750-800RPMs, very touchy throttle and then I revved it up to 2k where it hung there until I shut it off.
I plan on pulling the washers back out, making sure they're under 1" dia.
But after reading about all these hang-ups did they ever get resolved, if so what where they?
There are 3 steps on the spring retainer, the washer is suposed to go on the second step correct?
It seems like a lot of distance the .7+ washer plus the distance from the complete bottem of the retainer to the second step?
So do I have this right?
1.00 or less OD, .5 ID, and it sets on top of the 2nd most largest spring, on the second step of the spring retainer?
If I go in and replace this tomorrow do I have to look forward to a hangup @ 2K rpms? If so what should I look to for the culprit then?
-Jared
I fired the truck up, Idled about 750-800RPMs, very touchy throttle and then I revved it up to 2k where it hung there until I shut it off.
I plan on pulling the washers back out, making sure they're under 1" dia.
But after reading about all these hang-ups did they ever get resolved, if so what where they?
There are 3 steps on the spring retainer, the washer is suposed to go on the second step correct?
It seems like a lot of distance the .7+ washer plus the distance from the complete bottem of the retainer to the second step?
So do I have this right?
1.00 or less OD, .5 ID, and it sets on top of the 2nd most largest spring, on the second step of the spring retainer?
If I go in and replace this tomorrow do I have to look forward to a hangup @ 2K rpms? If so what should I look to for the culprit then?
-Jared
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Buffalo, NY
Just make sure the outside diameter is smaller than the inner diameter of the largest spring, which is the idle spring. Thickness should be about .050"-.065" the ones I put in my old truck were about .060" and they worked fine.
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 385
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From: Enid, OK
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How do i reset the voltage..??? i know of the potentiometer but i dont want to install that thing unless i have to...? I ahve adjusted the throttle bar? i have played with the springs? how can i get that dang voltage up?? and also how do i check the voltage??
How do i reset the voltage..??? i know of the potentiometer but i dont want to install that thing unless i have to...? I ahve adjusted the throttle bar? i have played with the springs? how can i get that dang voltage up?? and also how do i check the voltage??
You could use a potentiometer in the ground leg on a temporary basis (one end of the "scale" to ground, the "wiper" connection to the TPS)- adjust the pot to the setting that seems to work the best. Then, remove it and measure the ohms resistance with a meter. Select a fixed resistor of this value, and install it. Likely a 1/2 watt resistor would be heavy enough, but you could use one rated at 1 watt.
I have never done this, and I'm sure there is more info available through a search on the subject, but I would say the "pot" in question would likely be a low value (say ~500 ohms) at about 2 watts. Those with experience on this, jump in if I'm wrong.
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Joined: Mar 2006
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Vin - Noticed you installed this on a '95
Was it orginally equiped w/ an auto?
160HP Pump?
What size thickness washers did you use?
The washers I currently have in are .8 and I have hangup @ 2K +
It idles about 700-800RPMs.
I am planning on checking the OD of the washer to makesure they're not 1" and then taking them down to .55-.6 as you said in a previous post.
Well I'll purchase new washers, put it that way.
Is the hanging up from the thickness of the washers, or the pre-load on the retainer?
And as you said before on the '95 it sits on the second step, do you not only have the thickness of the washer, but the distance from the bottem to the top step.
You're increasing it a lot w/ .7
Was it orginally equiped w/ an auto?
160HP Pump?
What size thickness washers did you use?
The washers I currently have in are .8 and I have hangup @ 2K +
It idles about 700-800RPMs.
I am planning on checking the OD of the washer to makesure they're not 1" and then taking them down to .55-.6 as you said in a previous post.
Well I'll purchase new washers, put it that way.
Is the hanging up from the thickness of the washers, or the pre-load on the retainer?
And as you said before on the '95 it sits on the second step, do you not only have the thickness of the washer, but the distance from the bottem to the top step.
You're increasing it a lot w/ .7
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 385
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From: Enid, OK
Ok, here's the deal- this mod works, BUT my recent experience would suggest if time is going to be a factor, you may want to consider the spring kit.
The vehicle: '95 3500 (originally 160hp auto).
#6 fuel plate.
Upon entering the IP, I found the stock spring position to be a little looser than my '96 had been. It was about .040".
Anyway, I was quite careful to select washers having holes just very slightly larger than 1/2" diameter. I ground the outer diameter down to 15/16". Cleaned up the edges, and made sure they were flat by sanding on wet or dry paper on a flat suface. They were .085" thick.
After the entire rest of the day, trying to back off the retainer nuts far enough to obtain return to idle (about six dis-assemle/re-assemble and road test operations), we gave up for the day.
I obtained a different set of washers. This time, just over 15/16" OD, and had to ream the ID to 1/2" +. New thickness = .055".
A couple of adjustments later, I ended up with the top of the retainer nuts just about flush with the studs. Bingo, throttle drops as it should, responds to adjustments of the stop bolt, and revs to 3500.
I wanted to share this with all as I went through hell until I tried the thinner washers and realized that the retainer nut height was going to be higher than usual.
The vehicle: '95 3500 (originally 160hp auto).
#6 fuel plate.
Upon entering the IP, I found the stock spring position to be a little looser than my '96 had been. It was about .040".
Anyway, I was quite careful to select washers having holes just very slightly larger than 1/2" diameter. I ground the outer diameter down to 15/16". Cleaned up the edges, and made sure they were flat by sanding on wet or dry paper on a flat suface. They were .085" thick.
After the entire rest of the day, trying to back off the retainer nuts far enough to obtain return to idle (about six dis-assemle/re-assemble and road test operations), we gave up for the day.
I obtained a different set of washers. This time, just over 15/16" OD, and had to ream the ID to 1/2" +. New thickness = .055".
A couple of adjustments later, I ended up with the top of the retainer nuts just about flush with the studs. Bingo, throttle drops as it should, responds to adjustments of the stop bolt, and revs to 3500.
I wanted to share this with all as I went through hell until I tried the thinner washers and realized that the retainer nut height was going to be higher than usual.
As previously stated above.