Thats the downside of this free mod!!!

a 4k GSK will give ya a lot more top end then the washer mod, and a less touchy throttle...AND will be a lot harder on your wallet too... what... $225 bucks?

you decide!

 

And if you loosen them, The idle might come back slowly. I wanted to get away from the touchyness, and it was slow to return to the idle, so I went back to the same click I was just at.
The mileage thing, I am running lower boost and lower EGT temp, which is good. I also added an additive to help increase mileage and compared to the last fill, with in 4 miles, mileage was up by two. With this mod on the washers, and putting in my #5 plate back in. I have not been babying it either. So I am thinking that it does help. Lest in my case.
nivram

 

when i started this thread i wanted to get some of the guys that do there on mods some free stuff. this has turned out better than i expected, many on this board have learned a bunch from this thread. heck i even learned a little bit from it. i still have not reset my tps [up to 1.5volts from 1.2 at rest] that would keep me locked up better while cruising at 60 or so. and i got that from one of the members that did the mod.

 

Mine is doing the same thing yours was doing by only revving to around 2800 before shifting. What did you end up doing to fix this? tighten the preload a little more than the stock setting? Mine are set just like from the factory and the rod is adjusted properly.

 

Try setting your stud protusion to .030 - .040 , it should work better,, this is the best setting i found for my 96

 

i tightend the about 2 or 3 clicks i cant remember, but it cleared all sympotoms of the hanging rpms and the gave me the extra umphhhh i needed... unfortunatley my tranny doesnt like it.

 

oh yah on my truck now the shifts have been separated by a lot. 2-3 shift has a pause... second disengauges and then like 2-3 seconds and 3rd catches finally. can anyone tell me whats up with this, also no more lock up no matter what. Any ideas?

 

I had lockup problems with mine,,, never wanted to stay locked in , seems the pedal is alot lighter after doing it,, what i did was put in a pot in the tps ground wire,, had to turn it up from 1.2 volts to 1.5 volts,, now the convertor locks and stays locked even down at 55 mph,, One thing to think about, being you move the voltage up, it may kick code 24 ,, saying TPS voltage is to high,, mine it didnt do it, but my friends it did kick the code,,, no big deal tho reall,, just know it is there is all

Also by turning up the tps,, now my lockup comes at 55 mph and not like the 48-50 mph it did it before

 

why would the shifts be so bad? and far apart?


is this bar the on you adjust for tps voltage or is it not... And if it is not then where is the tps adjustment... sorry for my ignorance?

0=======\
................\=========O

 

No that is the throttle linkage you are showing,,, the TPS is near the front of the pump, has a plug with 3 wires on it. It might be dirty or even dead, as to why the shgifts are bad. From the factory there isnt much adjustment to them, you can take them off, and knock out the 2 metal inserts and oblong the holes, not sure how much you can adjust it that way,,, With a pot in the ground wire you can pretty much set the voltage to whatever you like it to be. There is a few pictures on here showing the exact position of the TPS, use the search and look for them,, but you cant miss it, look down where that rod you show is and at the front of the connection will be the TPS, Also they can be opened up and cleaned and then resealed to,, lots of posts about them on here to. Read the post below,, lots of info and pappyman has pictures in his gallery of the tps

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...light=pappyman

 

i know exactly where the tps is located... i just heard on here somewhere there is a tv cable that is used to adjust it? im not sure.

 

Another sucessfull washer mod here. I used 0.92" diameter, 0.069" thick 7/16 washers drilled out to 1/2". I actually had to open them up past 1/2" ever so slightly with a dremel.

The one big problem I had was that the @!%$@% retainer nut on the first spring didn't want to start straight on the stud. I tried for about 45 mins, then saw that i had slightly screwed up the first thread on the stud, and this is with me stopping when I felt the tell-tale resistance of a cross-thread. I'm no novice to threads, so this really surprised me at how little pressure it took to start damaging the threads (I notched an old chisel to make a tool, but was just turning it by the shaft with my fingers). That stud isn't as strong as you might think, so be carefull! if you can't finger start it for the first 3/16" of threads till the nut drops completely into the hole in the big washer, then it isn't going on straight. I originally thought the springs were providing resistance, or the nut was catching on the bigger washer, but this wasn't the case. I ended up chasing the threads TWICE after two failed attempts, then found a nut driver with a hollow shaft, pulled all the springs, shoved the nut-driver on the stud to get a reading on what was STRAIGHT. Turns out it lined up with the corner of one of the brake lines, so I used this as a reference. In the next and final attempt, the nut practically fell on the stud straight with no problems. It was too easy, and I don't know if my straight reference was the solution, or if I just got lucky. I was somewhat paranoid when I hit the second set of springs, but that nut proved no problem, and went on finger-easy on the first try.

A couple of other useful notes:
Each "click" on the retainer nut is a quarter turn and = 0.010"
Because of this, it is actually pretty easy to get the retainer nut back on in the EXACT same place it was before, provided you have a pair of digital calipers, and pay attention to the original orientation of the nut. I used the brake lines as a straight reference here too and was able to get close enough readings this way. The 0.010 increments help because you don't have to have super accurate readings, just close enough to figure out if the nut is at 0.040 or 0.050, etc. I was measuring from the top of the stud to the top of the nut.

After I conquered my initial problem with the first retainer nut, the rest of the process went smooth (hole plug took a little fiddleing, but not bad), and my truck fired right up at the SAME idle as before. I didn't have to adjust the idle at all. Throttle sensitivity is higher as others have mentioned, but I didnt' find it that bad. As far as performance, it seems to pull good to 3k now. I'm not looking for a race truck, just a good all around truck, and I'll be keeping the washers in if that helps you out.

For what it's worth, I went in through the side of the pump instead of through the top.

 

thank for all the info.. will be trying this soon.

seems .92 OD X .070 thick .5 ID is the way to go

I can always put it back to stock if this doesn't work out.

 

great post

 

Just finished up this mod today. I did it through method 2: fuel shutoff solenoid assembly removal. Took me close to 3 hours from start to finish including widening the washer holes and putting away my tools. I don't see how some of you could finish the whole thing in an hour, but anyway... I actually used two 7/16" washers. They were ~0.91" in diameter and had an inner hole diameter closer to 1/2". Both were 0.074"-0.076" thick. I found them to be a better match for this job than the 3/8" washers. I took my digital caliper into Ace Hardware and measured a lot of washers until I found two that were almost identical in measurement and spec.

When installing the washers I drilled the holes out to the point that they fit snuggly around the spring retainer nut. Then I added a tiny bit of super glue to hold the washer to the retainer nut. Otherwise, it kept on getting misaligned when I tried to put it on and it would touch the outer idle spring.

Thanks to gunracer1 for sharing this mod. Everything seems to run great so far. My idle didn't really get screwed up either. Am I lucky or did I just do everything carefully? Pedal feels like stock sensitivity to about 1100 rpms. Then it gets really touchy and the engine goes up to 2k rpms easily w/ a slight touch to the pedal. Does this sound right?

Would adding/deducting a click or two make any difference? Could it allow the engine to perform better while keeping my throttle sensitivity the same as I just described it?