free GSK for the p pump bunch
http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechGSK12V.htm
look there,, pretty good explantion there, with pictures,,, but they install springs,,, not just the washers,, but its all about the samething,, just dont remove any springs at all. Hope this helps you
look there,, pretty good explantion there, with pictures,,, but they install springs,,, not just the washers,, but its all about the samething,, just dont remove any springs at all. Hope this helps you
bar adjustment on throttle linkage
well i adjusted the bar shorter today but did nothing for the rpms, and now its getting caught up in the rpms. neutral rev the rpms get hung up around 1500 and in geare its absolutley solid, no hang ups, still only pulls to abot 2800, and free rev to 3000... what else is there to help this besides saving my pennies and buyingg that 4k gsk that i have been dieing to get along with the valve springs that is going to happen later this fall...
Originally Posted by Ramdriver15
well i adjusted the bar shorter today but did nothing for the rpms, and now its getting caught up in the rpms. neutral rev the rpms get hung up around 1500 and in geare its absolutley solid, no hang ups, still only pulls to abot 2800, and free rev to 3000... what else is there to help this besides saving my pennies and buyingg that 4k gsk that i have been dieing to get along with the valve springs that is going to happen later this fall...
to fix: tighten your springsm lower the idle!
and then,
there is a WOT stop screw, you could turn that one in! (a 10 mm nut holds it tight!)
on that nut is a plastic ring, just remove that with a flat screw driver!
its a little hard to get there!
oh, just to tell you, this washer mod is NOT like a 4k GSK! its more like a 3k or could be a little less (never had a 3k only 4!)
but still a 96 schould rev well past 3000.
is it popping at that rpm? if you, have other issues, timing and overflow valve
Tool for the GSK washer MOD
And to the top!!!!!!!
"We used a set of needle nose pliers this time" - being careful not to squeeze them together and booger up the threads. If I was gonna do a bunch of these I'd just use a pair I didn't care about and put a dab of weld on the joint.[/QUOTE]
In response to the above mentioned tool for adjusting the nut, I took a Wood borer, [flat one] that was 5/8" wide, it has a point in the middle for starting to drill the hole, and ground it off, and then continued further, about a 1/4" deeper, and a 1/4" wide, or so, [so the stud will fit] and then shaved just a little off the sides to fit the nut outside slot dia.. This works great cause it is longer, and the top has a hex on it so it will not turn in the drill. This is the size of a 5/32" socket that just bearly fits, and you can use a nut driver on it, or use one of those tiny wenches, called, Ignition wenches, to turn it. I found that it worked great. but make sure it has the HEX top on it.
Now you have a specalty tool. I don't know what else you would use it on.
Nivram
"We used a set of needle nose pliers this time" - being careful not to squeeze them together and booger up the threads. If I was gonna do a bunch of these I'd just use a pair I didn't care about and put a dab of weld on the joint.[/QUOTE]
In response to the above mentioned tool for adjusting the nut, I took a Wood borer, [flat one] that was 5/8" wide, it has a point in the middle for starting to drill the hole, and ground it off, and then continued further, about a 1/4" deeper, and a 1/4" wide, or so, [so the stud will fit] and then shaved just a little off the sides to fit the nut outside slot dia.. This works great cause it is longer, and the top has a hex on it so it will not turn in the drill. This is the size of a 5/32" socket that just bearly fits, and you can use a nut driver on it, or use one of those tiny wenches, called, Ignition wenches, to turn it. I found that it worked great. but make sure it has the HEX top on it.
Now you have a specalty tool. I don't know what else you would use it on.
Nivram
SO-- whats your mileage?
Has any one checked there mileage after doing this MOD?? I know the fun of doing the mod and to get the kick you recieve, I am courious. More go less throttle. Seems logicale.
Nivram
Nivram
mine has not changed unless i stay in pedal real hard for a long time... it wont change the mileage unless you consitently run at 3k rpm.... the higher ur rpms the less mileage you will get.....
I just put this mod in my truck. It revs to at least 3800 and to 3500 in gear. I'm not man enough to push it anymore. My EGTs are up too. Before I couldn't hit 1300 WOT, now I can hit 1450 and still climbing. I have one question though. The pedal is really touch, especially around 1500-2100 RPMs. Would loosing the springs a click clear this up without loosing too much rpms. I really don't want to loose the top end, but I don't want a touch throttle either. Any ideas?
Originally Posted by 97DodgeRam
I just put this mod in my truck. It revs to at least 3800 and to 3500 in gear. I'm not man enough to push it anymore. My EGTs are up too. Before I couldn't hit 1300 WOT, now I can hit 1450 and still climbing. I have one question though. The pedal is really touch, especially around 1500-2100 RPMs. Would loosing the springs a click clear this up without loosing too much rpms. I really don't want to loose the top end, but I don't want a touch throttle either. Any ideas?
12vram, who started this thread, would be a better source of info because he found this mod. he would be able to answere the question about this mod a little better thanany one else, IMO.
Originally Posted by Ramdriver15
12vram, who started this thread, .
Gunracer1 started this thread at my prompting because his original post outlining the mod was only brief.
So it seemed like a good idea to get the word out in detail. We all owe gunracer1 a big thanks for this mod.
Is 12vram the same bloke? I don't recall seeing anything posted about this mod until gunracer1 came out with it.
Big Jimmy


