free GSK for the p pump bunch
Man, the 3gsk is the best mod so far! Honestly it feels like u gain 100hp, lol. It's so much more driveable, each gear pulls so much further so it's alot easier to row through the gears.
I do have one issue though, I was expecting it really, but my idle raised up to 1000rpm, it use to be right at 750-800. Does that mean I need to loosen the retainer nuts? and how much for the needed rpm drop of 200-250?
Man, I got a huge smile, this thing seriously flys now, it's like a whole new truck....I gotta say it again, BEST MOD YET! Get $100 out and buy a kit if u haven't.
I do have one issue though, I was expecting it really, but my idle raised up to 1000rpm, it use to be right at 750-800. Does that mean I need to loosen the retainer nuts? and how much for the needed rpm drop of 200-250?
Man, I got a huge smile, this thing seriously flys now, it's like a whole new truck....I gotta say it again, BEST MOD YET! Get $100 out and buy a kit if u haven't.
Well, it was idleing at 1100, and I had a feeling I tightened the retainer nuts alittle to much, so I backed both of them off 2 clicks and it idle's perfectly at 775, no hang ups or anything. I'm really impressed with City Diesels GSK kit. I'm sure all the kits are great, but thats who I went with and I can't believe the difference it makes in the truck, after 1250rpm the thing just flys.
another cheap gsk kit is to pry the tamper proof cover off the arm stop screw loosen the jam nut turn it all the way in with a 10mm i think retighten the jam nut and adjust your linkage for full travel. It should get you 32-3300k
OK, first time doing this to my 98 manual, I got it to go dang near to 4000, idle was dang near perfect about 600 and idled down perfectly, no hangups,, I wanted the idle about 700, so I adjusted at the low idle nut, and now the dang thing hangs up around 1500-2000 and wont come down!!, I tried to take lowe idle back to 600, but it still does it, I must have taken this thing apart 15 times and tried different adjustments today!lol,1 click 3clicks 6 clicks, I tried alot... I got it not to hang up, but only if my idle was set so low it would die, around 300!!, I am gonna let it go for the night and re-collect my thoughts and have at it again tommarow night.... just 1 though, my washers are 3/8s and are just under 1", could they be to wide and hanging the throttle up??, I have looke3d and they seem to not be hanging up in there, and they are tight around the retainer so no slop, that I can see....... Any help??
I don't know. You're not the only one with that problem. Seems some 97 and 98 12v's just don't like this mod. If everything looks good and you messed with it several times, best bet would just be to save yourself some trouble and get the real kit.
Check your thickness- I couln't get the '95 I was working on to adjust out for anything until I went with thinner washers (~.055"). When making the adjustments to the retainer nuts, they will most likely end up very close to flush with the top of the studs. Also, don't be fooled by "just giving it a little throttle in neutral" tests to see if the rpms drop back to idle- you have to give it a "real" road test and get the rpms up under load to really see if they're going to drop back. That is until you are really close anyway.
I suspect different springs and/or retainers are the reason some seem to have different requirements. On the '95, the washers did not seat directly under the retainer at the large diameter (outer-most spring seat), but at the next step. Therefore the pre-load on the [next-to] outer springs was considerably more than just the thickness of the washers. That may not hold true for all retainers, I don't know.
Good luck. Hopefully something I have said here will help. If not, the best route would likely be to just buy the actual kit (as has been suggested previously).
OK, first time doing this to my 98 manual, I got it to go dang near to 4000, idle was dang near perfect about 600 and idled down perfectly, no hangups,, I wanted the idle about 700, so I adjusted at the low idle nut, and now the dang thing hangs up around 1500-2000 and wont come down!!, I tried to take lowe idle back to 600, but it still does it, I must have taken this thing apart 15 times and tried different adjustments today!lol,1 click 3clicks 6 clicks, I tried alot... I got it not to hang up, but only if my idle was set so low it would die, around 300!!, I am gonna let it go for the night and re-collect my thoughts and have at it again tommarow night.... just 1 though, my washers are 3/8s and are just under 1", could they be to wide and hanging the throttle up??, I have looke3d and they seem to not be hanging up in there, and they are tight around the retainer so no slop, that I can see....... Any help??
Ok, here are specs for the washers I used. Might want to try it out:
I actually used two 7/16" washers. They were both very close to 0.91" in diameter and had an inner hole diameter closer to 1/2". Both were 0.074"-0.076" thick. I found them to be a better match for this job than the 3/8" washers. I took my digital caliper into Ace Hardware and measured a lot of washers until I found two that were almost identical in measurement and spec.
When installing the washers I drilled the holes out to the point that they fit snuggly around the spring retainer nut. Then I added a tiny bit of super glue to hold the washer to the retainer nut. Otherwise, it kept on getting misaligned when I tried to put it on and it would touch the outer idle spring.
Well, I had to get it put back on the road before the holiday weekend, so I put it back to stock..............for now!lol
I will be lookin around for some more washers as Im not giving up, and am becomeing a frickin pro at taking them out and putting them in!lol, I am not gonna knock the 3 or 4000gsk kit, but I cannot justify spending the money until I atleast know I cant get the washers to work!.
thanks guys.....
I will be lookin around for some more washers as Im not giving up, and am becomeing a frickin pro at taking them out and putting them in!lol, I am not gonna knock the 3 or 4000gsk kit, but I cannot justify spending the money until I atleast know I cant get the washers to work!.
thanks guys.....
The old "time versus money" conundrum. What could you be doing to make money in the time you're spending saving money with this little trick? Ha, ha. After about the 10th time taking the AFC off, maybe the hundred or so bucks for the kit starts to make more sense!
As for the road test being scary- it was, somewhat. But that was the only way on the '95 to find out if it would really drop back or not, as many times I thought I "had it" by just throttling up to 3 grand in neutral only to find that an actual road test would leave the engine hanging anywhere from 1200 to ~1800. This wasn't too big of a problem since it was a manual truck and gears could be selected to successfully drive back to the shop. Also, under load the rpm would eventually drop. This might have been even less noticeable on an automatic truck. If it was truly "running away" more than the brakes could handle, it could always have been turned off.
As for the road test being scary- it was, somewhat. But that was the only way on the '95 to find out if it would really drop back or not, as many times I thought I "had it" by just throttling up to 3 grand in neutral only to find that an actual road test would leave the engine hanging anywhere from 1200 to ~1800. This wasn't too big of a problem since it was a manual truck and gears could be selected to successfully drive back to the shop. Also, under load the rpm would eventually drop. This might have been even less noticeable on an automatic truck. If it was truly "running away" more than the brakes could handle, it could always have been turned off.


