Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

Free 3000RPM GSK

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Old May 25, 2007 | 08:13 PM
  #1  
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From: Covington Ohio
Free 3000RPM GSK

Well I did the free GSK with the washers today! Talk about unleashing the beast! I cant wait to see the look on my coworkers face when I leave his 04 6.0 P-Stroke in a cloud of black smoke.
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Old May 25, 2007 | 08:20 PM
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From: Dardanelle, Arkansas
How long did it take you? I was thinking about doing it to mine but didnt know how long it would take and if it was hard to do.
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Old May 25, 2007 | 08:37 PM
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From: Covington Ohio
Hi, I had my more michanicly inclined brother do most of the work. It took about 2 hrs. We did it through the port on the lower side of the pump. Just read every thing you can find on the subject, get up some guts and go for it! Thats what we did. You won't belive the difference. When I did the 100plate I didn't notice much difference, but that GSK oh my! Doing it from the port on the side wes easer than I was lead to understand from some posts.

Tom

P.S sorry i can't spell!
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Old May 25, 2007 | 08:40 PM
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From: Dardanelle, Arkansas
ok thanx for the reply. i think me and my buddy will try it sunday. so is it better on the bottom end? top end? or both? as far as performance wise. and what size washer did you use?
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Old May 25, 2007 | 09:21 PM
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From: Covington Ohio
It's better bottom and top end. It really wakes up the truck. I think it accelerates like my Dads Duramax. Before my truck wouldn't smoke much, now when I mash on it I get smoke. And takeing it easy I get no smoke and much better acceleration! It's a much better all around driver.

Tom
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Old May 26, 2007 | 09:30 AM
  #6  
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From: Bellingham, Wa
yea the 3gsk is a great mod. It affects all the way from 1250rpms+. It pulls alot faster so it feels like u gain a ton of HP. I didn't notice a big gain when I did the 100 plate alone, but mix the 100 plate and the 3gsk and it's fun stuff.
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Old May 26, 2007 | 09:37 AM
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From: The Great White North
tom25 and Box5 - I dont see any guages in your signatures. You both have pyrometers right?
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Old May 26, 2007 | 10:02 AM
  #8  
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From: Chapel Hill, NC
I know that Box5 has pryo boost and a non-functioning tranny temp gauge .
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Old May 26, 2007 | 11:00 AM
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From: Bellingham, Wa
yea i've got the full banks pillar gauge set. The tranny gauge is lonely there not doing anything, now that I have the 5spd in, lol.
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Old May 26, 2007 | 11:20 AM
  #10  
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From: Covington Ohio
Yes I have pyro and boost. I am new to this forum stuff. I'll ad it to my sig.
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Old May 26, 2007 | 12:19 PM
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I've reading up on this, and still can't find two threads with the same answers to one question. When doing the washer mod, I've read that you don't tighten the springs up quite as much, you have less stud protusion. How much did you leave sticking out?
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Old May 26, 2007 | 01:10 PM
  #12  
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From: Bellingham, Wa
I bought a gsk kit, but if u do the washer mod i think it just depends on what thickness of washer u use. .07 seems like the most commen used thickness of washer. You should set the stud protrusion to the exact same hieght it was when u took it off. U'll know if it's to tight or to loose because ur idle will either be to high or to low. If ur idle is to high when ur done, just loosen the retainer nuts 1 or 2 clicks and test the idle. Or the opposite if it's to low.
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Old May 26, 2007 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by kas83
I've reading up on this, and still can't find two threads with the same answers to one question. When doing the washer mod, I've read that you don't tighten the springs up quite as much, you have less stud protusion. How much did you leave sticking out?
I believe about 0.040" is what you want with the washers in. ~0.050" is the stock stud portrusion. That's how mine went. Also, I went to ACE with my digital caliper and found two washers that were nearly identical in thickness. You wanna make sure you get two washers that are the same. I did this through the side of the pump. Here is a quote (from me) that I posted in the other thread. Hope it helps.

"I actually used two 7/16" washers. They were ~0.91" in diameter and had an inner hole diameter closer to 1/2". Both were 0.074"-0.076" thick. I found them to be a better match for this job than the 3/8" washers. I took my digital caliper into Ace Hardware and measured a lot of washers until I found two that were almost identical in measurement and spec.

When installing the washers I drilled the holes out to the point that they fit snuggly around the spring retainer nut. Then I added a tiny bit of super glue to hold the washer to the retainer nut. Otherwise, it kept on getting misaligned when I tried to put it on and it would touch the outer idle spring."
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Old May 26, 2007 | 06:10 PM
  #14  
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From: Covington Ohio
We found .053 as the stud protusion with the stock srings. we installed 3/8 washers, after drilling them out to slightly larger than 1/2'' by wobbling the drill bit, as 1/2'' was not quite large enough to lay tight aganst the spting retaner. Then reinstalled them to .053 stud protrusion, as they were before. My idle remained unchanged, but we were able to rev to 3500 rpm. I think the posts you see by people with idle problems is from over tighting the spring retaners.
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