SIXSLUG

So I got a killer deal on an Edge EZ and will be installing it shortly.

Anything I should look out for or watch for besides the egt gauge and tire wear....

My main goal is to increase mileage a little and get a few more torques for towing on occasion.....

Mike L

Sure Kurt, sure. That's what I said too. Then there was $4,000.00 on a more stout 47RE. Momma wasn't too pleased with the $$$ for tires either. Oh well, all good, right? I actually bought it for the monitoring of engine and transmission temps and functions. I use tow mode a lot. Oh, and level 3 is ok for vulcanizing pavement

Cheers!

Mike

KATOOM

SIX have you been stock all these years?

The EZ is a great box. Plug and play and helps just enough while keeping the engine and drivetrain safe. But that said, since you have an HO you wont feel as much of a gain as an SO truck would because the HO's already run more aggressive timing which is basically what the EZ does, but more. Yes, it will certainly be a nice improvement over stock but just not "as much" as if you had an SO engine. I think the EZ is around 60-65 hp so you'll probably be more around 50-55 hp over stock.

But on the bright side, the HO's respond really well to larger injectors because they're so bottle-necked running the increased pressure and fuel timing. So if you already have the clutch to support the power then you should be looking for a set of new RV275's or some quality 50 hp sticks. I have an EZ and 275's and I absolutely love how this truck drives and tows. I can pull my fully loaded 14k-15k 5th wheel along the freeway at 55-60 mph and maintain those speeds on most grades.

Other than that, what to look for is minimal as long as you already have gauges and a quality fuel pump able to put out no less than 15 psi at all times.

SIXSLUG

Yes, it definitely pepped her up. I've intended on a tuner for a long time just have other things come up and finally got around to it. Everything else is up to speed as far as clutch, gauges, FASS, exhaust etc....

I got a little stash for RV275's, shhhh, don't tell the checkbook gnomes, they have a way of finding other things to spend it on, ha ha

Only thing I didn't do was the boost elbow...

KATOOM

I wont say a word as I have my own stash too. Keep pocket funds commingled in the "bills" account and you seemingly always use it for bills. Gotta have your fun money too.....

As for the elbow, install it. Its not "required" but consider that the engine builds as much boost as the fuel its receiving so you limiting that boost by keeping the stock wastegate elbow on there is doing no good. You should easily see at least 25 psi with the EZ. Thats not meant to sound like a cool factor either but merely informing you what to expect.

SIXSLUG

I'll get one coming....can't believe I waited this long for a tuner...

tom beverly

The EZ/RV275 combo is really nice for driving and towing. It is a dirt simple plug and play deal that really wakes up the performance without going overboard or sacrificing reliability/drivability.
I feel like there is a lot less temptation to mess with the tuning and screw something up like I there is with the higher tech tuners out there.

Also I'm pretty sure the newer EZ has a control to switch "levels" inside the truck cab, which would be nice for keeping smoke down depending on what you're using the truck for and how much load you have on it. (On the older EZ you have to remove a cover on the EZ box and physically move a jumper inside the box to switch "levels". (Which is in the engine compartment).

The EZ really woke up the low end punch, but then it feels like it drops off as the rpms increase. The injectors picked up where the EZ fell off, and keeps the power coming through the entire rpm range.
I have no EGT issues (even while towing 10-15k) with the EZ/RV275 combo.

If I were doing it again I would go slightly larger then the RV275 injectors.

The only negative side effects from the EZ I encountered is bucking/surging when it is cold out at light throttle, under load, especially at low rpms.
I also had to upgrade the clutch as it would slip with the trailer hooked up when the boost would come on.

SIXSLUG

Hi Tom, I'm having a similar experience as you. I have injectors next on the list. My EZ is the older type and I haven't messed with the lower settings yet...

I have a Southbend 1947 Con Ofe and it holds pretty well with 8500# behind it now.

tom beverly

My EZ is the older type as well. The lower settings make pretty much the same power, it just changes how fast the power come on and how much smoke it causes when you lug the motor down.

The clutch has taken anything I throw at it with ease.
I tow pretty frequently with several different trailers between 8,000 - 15,000 lbs.
The only issue I have is that the machine shop machined the flywheel surface too rough and it builds up material between the disc/flywheel. That buildup results in difficulty getting it in gear at times, especially 1st or 2nd when at a stop. It also makes the clutch pretty grabby when taking off or trying to back up and slip the clutch. It doesn't engage as smooth as the stock one did (pretty sure that is all a result of the flywheel surface).
That has nothing to do with South Bend though, the clutch itself has been great.
I wish I had just taken a wizzer and cleaned the original clutch material off the flywheel, as the clutch only slipped a couple of times before I swapped it, no hot spots or anything and the original flywheel surface looked great.
The literature from South Bend made me paranoid about turning the flywheel in case there was a warranty issue... The folks at South Bend were nice enough to tell me how to clean it off. Simply put it in third gear, apply the parking brake, rev motor to 1800-2000 rpm and slip the clutch a couple of times. It works, but I only do it when it gets really bad, as I'm sure it shorten the clutch disc life a lot.

BarryG

IIRC the difference in settings is the boost psi that full fueling is allowed, the timing I think stays constant/same regardless of setting it is only the fueling that is changed

When I bought my EZ way back in 01 at that time it was setup as the following per Edge though possible they changed it since then

Edge EZ= timing & full fuel @ 3psi, timing & full fuel @ 10psi, timing & full fuel @ 20psi

SIXSLUG

I put a boost bolt in yesterday and it seemed smoother at start up and driving to work this morning, almost like it was already warmed up.

I don't know how to adjust it properly, I blew air thru the stocker and then the adjustable one and felt quite a difference in restriction....

I'll let it get warmed up before I hammer on it to see what it does in the upper boost range, I think it levelled off at 20 psi before...

KATOOM

With just an EZ you can basically shut off the adjustable elbow completely. The adjustable boost elbow simply limits the volume of air delivered to the wastegate pod, giving the pod more advantage.

When you're fueling enough to build the amount of boost which will cause the HX to generate more heat than boost, you need to have a functioning wastegage that will keep the impeller shaft RPM's in check. For the HY thats about 30 psi and for the HX thats about 35 psi. In point, the most boost your EZ will produce with the elbow shut off will be about 28 psi, at most. Completely safe.....

SIXSLUG

Sweet, thanks Katoom.

totalloser

The boost elbow has a tiny restrictor to limit flow through, and a bleed off port that vents to the atmosphere. The adjustment limits the flow before it reaches the bleed off hole. This creates a static condition which proportionally drops the *pressure* (not flow) to the waste gate actuator.

A trick to dial it in is to use a filter/regulator assembly with shop air to set it just right. This trick also is very handy for tinkering with the gate rod, but that's a different story.

I have run my setup with both SO and HO pumps with the EZ and could hardly tell the difference, but the SO was a worn out reman unit, so not the fairest comparison. I am certain that the fueling levels change between settings in the old style, I ruled out *ever* using the high setting due to unreasonable amounts of smoke with 100hp injectors. The unit does NOT regulate boost per se, but it does perform boost fooling which allows higher boost without putting the engine into "limp".

The injectors go nicely hand in hand with the EZ, but they *multiply* rather than add. Take the amount over stock from each mod and multiply these together, and multiply *that* number by the stock HP. This should give you close to the HP the fueling is delivering. So Stock HO 245hp + EZ 65hp =1.26 of stock. 40hp injectors = 1.16 of stock, so fueling would be in the range of 358hp (1.26x1.16x245) The reason to bother with this is so you know how much clutch and boost is needed.

A little more than this (about 400hp) and my stock style 13" clutch hub didn't survive. At 350ish hp IMO the HX35 with a boost elbow at 30-35 at the turbo is *perfect*. I still wonder if I should swap one back in even though I'm fueling at least 50hp more.

Fuel efficiency will come up markedly I bet. Especially if the timing actuator housing in your vp is worn out (mine was) but if that's the case it comes up even more with a properly functioning pump.

PS: Though I may be prone to the occasional caffeinated soap box rant, your build will be very similar to mine, thus this particular long winded rant.

SIXSLUG

Thanks totall, that is what I'm shooting for and a great explanation!

I'm seeing a jump in mpg already with an original vp with over 150K on it...