ScottGregory

Now that the engine is out, I will have the block planed true. Initially I was in the process of getting a new head planed and fire ringed. However in discussing with the supplier he said that if I plane the block the headgasket would be a problem. It was suggested to cut the ring in the block, since it holds better. The problem is that there is only one gasket thickness for a 24 valve.

What would be the best option at this point?
1) Cut the piston down (or different grade if new), firering and stock gasket
2) Forget the fire rings and just o-ring it with a mod12V marine gasket of proper thickness.
3) Fire ring the block and modify a 12V oversize gasket.

If I am lucky, it may not take more than a few thousands off of the block, too early to tell.

I have ARP newage 625 studs coming for this motor. It is my opinion that clamping force is really the true solution here. However I don't want to drill and tap the block for 14mm based in discussion of the block being too thin.

I don't expect to hit 80psi with the twins, but assuming my guage is correct it hits 60psi periodically. Some days more than others

My goal is to have this engine stay together for a long time running between 450-550 hp.

ctd89-99

Go with o-rings and a 20 over 12 valve marine gasket, there not to hard to modify. You just need a really good PUNCH and DIE SET. Just my .02 cents. Thanks Steve B.

freddy_772

If you don't plan to make over 60psi imo ring the head and use a modded 12 valve marine HG. Stock thickness is .070 so you could go with a .090 12-valve and call it good. The mods to the gasket needed are slight and easy. I'm sure you'll have some more ideas coming.

ScottGregory

Thanks for the quick feedback.
Regarding the marine gasket, I have read that they tend to leak a little coolant. Would the Permatex copper gasket sealer stop this or cause more problems? Or is what I read more spam than truth?

ctd89-99

They don't tend to leak. If they leak there's a reason. Thanks

Mike Holmen

Just make sure the machine shop tell you how much material they cut off the block and head. You might need a custom head gasket to make-up the difference, if you take out to much material. I like o-rings, so I did it, so far I've been happy. First off, make sure you get everything true/flat and smooth for a good bite. Then do lots of head re-torques on the bolts or studs. The head gasket will keep compressing and you need to keep the head tight on the block.

Tate

To me, it seems getting the rings cut into the head would be the better way to go. At least if the rings go bad (botched job), or you decide to go a different route (MLS gasket, back to stock, what have you), you'd only need a head, not a block.

dzlfarmboy

I'd go with the 0.020 over marine gasket and a set of o-rings, but the key to make the o-rings work well and seat is to make sure you do multiple retorques after you get some heat cycles on it so the o-rings can settle in.

olddodgetruck

where do you need to modify the marine gasket to work in a 24v?
sorry for hijacking the post

dodgediesel

Same thoughts here as Dzlfarmboy. I went with o-rings, 12mm APR's and a .0200 over marine gasket from PDR. Holding like a charm...

ctd89-99

Some passage holes need enlarged, best way is lay the 24v gasket on the 12v gasket and go from there. Thanks