Can Somebody Please Describe To Me How To "Slide" The Fuel Plate?
Can Somebody Please Describe To Me How To "Slide" The Fuel Plate?
My friend has a 1996 2500 with dual 5" stacks minus cat & muffler and we were wondering how to make it roll the smoke...I see on here alot about sliding these plates foreward to increse power and smoke levels. Also it tends to over time have a very low idle and not want to run in gear or with the A/C on, would sliding this plate foreward remedy this at all. what are star wheels?
to slide the plate you must remove the afc housing. (one philips one breakoff and two 10mm i think) the you'll see the plate it has two flat head screws losen them and slide the plate all the way twoards the front of the truck. or take it out and grind it into a j of a flat plate.
the starwheel is under a big allen plug pull it and it's underneath. losen it until you get desired low boost smoke
the starwheel is under a big allen plug pull it and it's underneath. losen it until you get desired low boost smoke
Lots of Dumb Questions...
What is an afc housing? how long will this fuel plate slide take and above average mechanic to do? Pros/Cons? and should the star wheel & fuel plate be adjusted at the same time or will either do?
these are not my own words but very good info provided by TxDiesel007:
Read up and enjoy....
THIS is just to get a little more power out of your ram. You can do serveral things, i see you are getting gauges, and you have an air intake on the way. which is good. Now this is an into to the main power source of the ram, Your P7100 Pump, and what you can tweak on it for more power. You can also time it, but thats advanced, well at least for me... use this as an intro more than anything.. I tried my best to explain it.... here goes... and
I meant to say post.... sorry.....
Here is an intro the link to the pic might not work, but u can see it as banks plate in my gallery.....
to get more power out of your truck the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix.
A governers spring kit, Reffered to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow powerband from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governer arm adjustment and your plate positioning. A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100 (PM northslope for wicked work! ) and a zero plate. Piers Diesel Research and Hot Rod Diesels have them for the same price, The fuel plate... here is my explanation....
Torque plates.... ok this is a torque plate right here... https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=500&page=1
More commonly reffered to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flatt plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The one you see there is my banks plate, screwy yes, i know, i dont get it myself. that plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and u loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flatt, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real PITA to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...
Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. If you read my literal "dissertation" of a post hehehehehehe. it tells u the procedure on how to do it. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.
The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown soleniod (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those ull notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move teh shutdown soleniod out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..
When you are in there its simple adjustment, u just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. If you dont have gauges, dont set it full forward, If you do have gauges set it forward for a 30 or so rwhp increase!
Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it.PS having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS...
Which one is right for you.. id say the ten if you are not gonna be that aggressive with it, but the 100 is downright WICKED!! that be the one to go with, the zero is just too much at the low end for me but for dynos and racin, its awesome!.. The zero, PM Northslope AWESOME AWESOME WORK, and ull be helpin out a fellow DTR member, and the zero plate you can grind yourself, well you can do either or, but PM northslope do a search for plate grinding, started by gunracer1.. good instructions..
Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto.....if you are going to play hard, in most cases if you just want a modest power gain, just get a 10 plate, set it a lil bit forward, and a GSK will wake up your truck. In the stock position its easily drivable and fun as well.
Waste gate, if i was good with pictures id put one up for you, but im sure you know what the wastegate looks like, that head looking deal, it is usually hooked to a rubber or similar airline, you want a little more boost? You can get a longer hose or pinch it up, There is a thread, i dont member where tho, where it shows someone improperly blocking the wastgate with a screw.... Well that aint good.. Anyways
Also make sure you get the KDP done on that truck as well... Not hard to do, look in my previous posts, KDP Report Using TST kit, or somethin similar to that......
PS this is cut and paste of other posts, sorry if its redundant....
Best of luck and hope that this helps..
Tx
Read up and enjoy....
THIS is just to get a little more power out of your ram. You can do serveral things, i see you are getting gauges, and you have an air intake on the way. which is good. Now this is an into to the main power source of the ram, Your P7100 Pump, and what you can tweak on it for more power. You can also time it, but thats advanced, well at least for me... use this as an intro more than anything.. I tried my best to explain it.... here goes... and
I meant to say post.... sorry.....
Here is an intro the link to the pic might not work, but u can see it as banks plate in my gallery.....
to get more power out of your truck the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix.
A governers spring kit, Reffered to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow powerband from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governer arm adjustment and your plate positioning. A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100 (PM northslope for wicked work! ) and a zero plate. Piers Diesel Research and Hot Rod Diesels have them for the same price, The fuel plate... here is my explanation....
Torque plates.... ok this is a torque plate right here... https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=500&page=1
More commonly reffered to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flatt plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The one you see there is my banks plate, screwy yes, i know, i dont get it myself. that plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and u loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flatt, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real PITA to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...
Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. If you read my literal "dissertation" of a post hehehehehehe. it tells u the procedure on how to do it. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.
The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown soleniod (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those ull notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move teh shutdown soleniod out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..
When you are in there its simple adjustment, u just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. If you dont have gauges, dont set it full forward, If you do have gauges set it forward for a 30 or so rwhp increase!
Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it.PS having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS...
Which one is right for you.. id say the ten if you are not gonna be that aggressive with it, but the 100 is downright WICKED!! that be the one to go with, the zero is just too much at the low end for me but for dynos and racin, its awesome!.. The zero, PM Northslope AWESOME AWESOME WORK, and ull be helpin out a fellow DTR member, and the zero plate you can grind yourself, well you can do either or, but PM northslope do a search for plate grinding, started by gunracer1.. good instructions..
Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto.....if you are going to play hard, in most cases if you just want a modest power gain, just get a 10 plate, set it a lil bit forward, and a GSK will wake up your truck. In the stock position its easily drivable and fun as well.
Waste gate, if i was good with pictures id put one up for you, but im sure you know what the wastegate looks like, that head looking deal, it is usually hooked to a rubber or similar airline, you want a little more boost? You can get a longer hose or pinch it up, There is a thread, i dont member where tho, where it shows someone improperly blocking the wastgate with a screw.... Well that aint good.. Anyways
Also make sure you get the KDP done on that truck as well... Not hard to do, look in my previous posts, KDP Report Using TST kit, or somethin similar to that......
PS this is cut and paste of other posts, sorry if its redundant....
Best of luck and hope that this helps..
Tx
take the AFC spring out and grind the factory plate flat if you want it to smoke good 
slide the plate and the housing all the way forward. it'll run well and the stock tranny will hold it just fine. just grind it a hair deeper than the deepest point on the stock profile, and you won't fry anything.

slide the plate and the housing all the way forward. it'll run well and the stock tranny will hold it just fine. just grind it a hair deeper than the deepest point on the stock profile, and you won't fry anything.
Originally Posted by casper_cobra
DO A SEARCH!


here we are trying to help a guy out and people like you have to come and shoot their mouth off
HE'S NEW
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Your idle problem will only be fixed by upping the idle a little bit. This requires one 10mm wrench, and a reach around to the back part of the injector pump. The lock nut you must loosen is on a bolt that point towards the ground at the back of the injector pump. Loosen the nut a turn or so, then grab the throttle with you other hand to open it a little, then back the bolt out just a little with your fingers. It should be at least 500 RPM in gear, with AC on, about 700 RPM in Park. While it can be done with the truck running, I find it easier when it is not. Once you have it at the RPM you want, lock the nut back down and you're done.
Did mine the other night in less than 2 minutes. It now idles OK in gear, at 500 RPM, but is about 900 RPM in park, this is because of the STIFF TC I just installed.
Chris
Did mine the other night in less than 2 minutes. It now idles OK in gear, at 500 RPM, but is about 900 RPM in park, this is because of the STIFF TC I just installed.

Chris
Heres 2 very good sites, with pics, for you answers.
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/adj...d_Gen-Idle.htm
http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=58
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/adj...d_Gen-Idle.htm
http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=58
Originally Posted by cummnz4x4pwr
sounds like somebody needs an attitude adjustment!!!!!!!!!
here we are trying to help a guy out and people like you have to come and shoot their mouth off
HE'S NEW
here we are trying to help a guy out and people like you have to come and shoot their mouth off
HE'S NEW
I agree here,
Casper, please with all due respect...Lighten up man, seriously, we were all new here at some point..
PS Cumminz, thanks for the writeup comments

Rick
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