I am not sure, find a 3rd gen buddy and see if their oil cap works... then the only issue would be clearance...

On the 2nd gen you can use the dual remote w/out the pressure issue.

 

The Frantz takes abouta quart of oil and they say to change it every 3000 miles.

I did mine every 2500 miles though.

Oil is ~$10/gal, so if you drove 20,000 miles/year that would be $20 in makeup oil in 1 year.

That being said, I got tired of changing it. It can be messy and also take a bit of time. I liked it at first, but it got old after a while.

I ended up buying an Amsoil setup. Was a little over $100 for the filter housing and the big filter. I'll have some more $$ tied into hydraulic lines and a few fittings as well, but it's not too bad.

 

I guess it depends on the oil you use, my Amsoil is about $30/gal....

Are you the Idaho Nate?

 

I wasnt suggesting to not use the full flow filter, I was just stating that you didnt have to relocate it as well as install the bypass.

 

I think it depends on what 2nd gen you are talking about. On my 96 I removed the filler pipe from the front of the engine, drilled and taped a hole for a hose barb for the return oil. Has worked well foe about two years.

 

That is the route I am going to take.

 

TX Welder, how is that s300 working out for you, now that you have it all tuned? My 3rd gen turbo setup is sweet! The plumbing of the exhaust has been the biggest pain of the whole project.

How are your cruising egts, boost, etc. This turbo runs a little hotter on the bottom end for sure, takes a little longer to cool off when you pull up to park, but it definitely runs cooler on the topend. Which is counter intuitive it's 9cm!

 

Turbo is running great and the exhaust was the hardest part for me as well because I made my own DP. It does run warmer on the bottom end and boost is pretty much nil until you give it some fuel but it cools awesome. Good for 396/783 with a slipping tranny. Probably have better numbers just cant get them to the ground. I do notice that it is taking forever to break in the exhaust housing because when it gets hot, it stinks to high heaven. I assume its the exhaust housing breaking in?

 

Yup.

$10 a gal was the price of Rotella or the other one in the blue jug (forget the name now)

I am going to run Schaeffers next oil change and that's $17/gal.

 

I finally got my exhaust hooked up and it stinks too! On my truck, it is the new exhaust tubing, not the turbine housing itself.

 

Probaby the same for mine, didnt think about that new piece of tubing I had bent for the DP. It is also pretty close to the firewall and insullation so those higher low boost temps are probably heating it up pretty well.

 

Greeting, I have used Frantz filters for years I didn't change them often 5-7000mi. For some reason I stoped useing them I still have one on my 1950 Chevy moving van. I just got reinterested in them and came looking for threads about them. I have two that I took off cars before I sold them, I plan to put them on my tractor and one of the other vehicles. I'm looking forward to having them on and as before I don't plan to change adding oil only to maintain level and add displaced oil at filter change.

 

Sounds like a good plan. Frantz is the best bypass filter you can get. You can tell when it's time to change it by touching the filter housing when the engine is warm. If it feels warm too then it means oil is still circulating through the toilet paper. If not, it's time to change!

 

That sounds right!