VinDiesel

Hello Gentlemen,

I have purchased a bypass filter and mount for my rig, and now I could use a little oil flow info. I don't have a schematic or flow diagram, so my question is- what's that little plug on top of the oil filter mount (the one outboard of where the turbo supply comes off)? Just wondering if that port is pre or post full-flow filter?

I plan to make a clamp (with a threaded boss) that will go around the oil fill tube for my return.

Your recommendations/experience will be appreciated.
Thanks

yomitch

you will find on the left hand side of the engine half way between the head and the oil pan a few or couple of small bolts that run from front to rear tapped into the block that are oil supply "ports" where you can tap into which are 1/8" pipe thread.

Den052

Personally, the bypass filters for diesels were a thing of the 1960's. I would not put one on my truck. I find that changing the oil and filter at the required intervals to be much better. I have been to an &quot;oil seminar&quot; that proved that add on oil filters just don't get it nowdays. This guy that worked for Valvoline oil corp. made over $100,000 a year as an oil expert. If you want excotic protection, then get synthetic oils (they are superior but expensive). I got 250,000 miles on my Chev 4.3 liter v6 gasser just by changing the oil every 4-6000 miles. Not a drop of &quot;slick 50&quot; or other exotic additives other than clean engine oil and filters. I use synthetic oil in my garden tractor, but consider it too expensive for bigger vehicles. I would rather change the oil a little more frequently. Get the dirt out and the contaminates, thats the name of the game.<br>

VinDiesel

Den052,<br><br>I would agree with regular oil change intervals, especially for &quot;standard&quot; petroleum oils, mostly because I think the additive package &quot;wears out&quot; as it does the job of neutralizing and cleaning. <br><br>I plan to continue changing my oil at 6,000 miles. However, the full flow filter is rated at about 10 microns, the bypass filter I plan to install is 2 microns. The replacement spin-on is $6.65 + tax. I figure it's cheap insurance towards longevity. I will probably change it every other time at 12,000 miles, removing it, emptying it, and re-filling with new oil every time (6,000). If I ever decide synthetic is worth the additional cost, then intervals might increase.<br><br>After studying my buddy's factory service manual, it looks like the outboard plug and the inner hole for the turbo supply are on the same passage (post full flow filter) in the filer mount. Can anyone verify this for me?<br><br>Thanks,<br>Vin

timbob

For years, DuPont, the maker of teflon for many of those oil additives, refused to endorse this application in engines. Even their tech service guys said they didn't use it, recommend it or push it. They would always say they recommend changing your motor oil at 3000 mile intervals but not using any form of teflon in the crankcase. That is the same thing guys that ran test engines at oil company labs would say. <br><br>I believe you will find that numerous teflon based additives have been pulled from the market because they have been proven to actually clog oil pickup screens, restrict oil passages and ruin bearings. Apparantly, teflon particles agglomerate, swell and abstruct oil flow. It looks like it was all pure marketing scam and no delivery on claims, in fact worse: potential damage. Keep them out of your engine. <br><br>On the other hand, a bypass oil filter with an effective filter element should actually help keep oil cleaner for longer. There is almost no potential for damage provided the installation is secure and does not jeapardize main oil flow volume and pressure. This might be a good place to use a Mobil One oil filter which in most tests exhibits finer filtration level, higher filtertation capacity and lower unfilterred by-pass than just about any other oil filter. That oil filter is what helps Mobil One synthetic perform for 25,000 miles in a gasser. Unfortunately it is not approved by Dodge and Cummins in the diesel. Don't know why, but I would trust it way beyond Wicks or Fram if your engine is out of warranty.