Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

Been told the 12v's were the best? easily modifiable etc? info?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Nov 15, 2004 | 05:12 PM
  #16  
Forrest Nearing's Avatar
Banned
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,800
Likes: 0
you should be able to get close to 500hp out of a 160 pump...

the 97-98's had the hydroboost brake assist vs. the vac boost... I like that because they're much smaller and easier to work around under the hood when doing pump tweaks, fuel filter changes, fuel line replacements, etc. etc. etc.

I wouldn't worry about upgrading the injection pump on a 160 truck... just put some 370 injectors in it, some 191 delivery valves, a 4k GSK, and #0 or #100 plate, and slam it all the way forward.

the fuel plate is just a cam plate that the fuel lever arm rides on... the farther forward the fuel arm goes, the more fuel you get.

but realize that 500 horsepower is gonna require a pretty serious turbo... USB, B1, etc.

now, when I was looking for trucks, I looked at how much more power I could get out of a 215 truck vs. a 160-175 truck, and how much it would cost me to get the same power out of the smaller pump'd truck, and it just made more sense to get the big dawg right off the bat... it'd cost the same or less in the long run, just a little more up front. there really isn't a huge price break on earlier vs. later 12v's based purely on age... a '95 with 150k miles on it is going to cost you about the same as an identical '97 would cost... the thing is, the earlier trucks tend to have more miles on them and more little flaws that bring the average price down, but given two identical trucks w/ the only difference being the year, it doesn't make that much difference.

with all that said, if I would have found a good deal on a 94-95, I would have been all over it and wouldn't look back, but I was really looking for/hoping for a 96-98.

I feel that I got pretty lucky...

I got my truck with 208k miles, it had new balljoints, he had just replaced the timing case with the updated version that prevented the KDP from backing out, fresh valve adjustment, timing bumped to 16.5*, 370 injectors, a #6 plate, a 4k GSK, BHAF, 4" downpipe, stacks (that I didn't like and replaced w/ a 5" system, but still), SBC OFE clutch, 5th gear nut fix, autometer boost/pyro gauges, Alpine CD player, etc. for $7k

you should have SEEN some of the busted up, paintless, worn front end having, stock as a rock turds I was looking at in the $4-6k range!!! the time and money I would have had in getting one of them to the point where my truck was would have put me WAY over $7k.

now, it's got a salvage title and is a little rough around the edges, but so am I. I've had it 11 months, and I've put just shy of 30k miles on it. I put an HX40 on it after a month or so that cost me $250 after selling my stock turbo... and other than some minor problems (AC core went out, water pump went out (my fault), and a clutch replacement (my fault) I've been loving every minute of it!!!


as for how much you're going to be throwing at it?

figure $400 for the injectors
$200 for gauges and pod
$1200 for clutch (it hurts, but it'll probably be the last one you ever have to buy for this thing unless you get really crazy with it!!)
$175 for the fuel plate
$125-225 for the GSK (4k is more expensive. comes w/ valve springs)
$300 for a complete 4" exhaust system
$150-1600 for the turbo (from a larger housing on the stock turbo all the way to a full boogie bomber... and there are different points in between obviously. you can have a lot of fun w/ an 18.5 cm housing on the stocker for not a lot of money... a bit laggy, but not too terribly bad. remember, they were stock on the 1st gen trucks!)

so figure $2-4k in extras... but you can spread that out over time obviously... maybe do the gauges, filter, GSK, and plate first, then exhaust, then clutch, then injectors, then turbo, etc.

grinding a plate just changes the fueling curve and the amount of fuel...

if I had a 160-175 pump, I'd just grind the stocker flat... maybe put a little curve at the bottom. then slide it forward when you get the clutch (or slide it forward off the bat if the clutch will hold!
Reply
Old Nov 15, 2004 | 06:13 PM
  #17  
Forrest Nearing's Avatar
Banned
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,800
Likes: 0
FWIW, here's a link to a stock plate vs. an aftermarket plate

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/side05.jpg

and if you click on my photo gallery link under my name, you'll see the pic of my plate that I uploaded... it used to look pretty similar to the aftermarket plate shown in the link above.

Forrest
Reply
Old Nov 16, 2004 | 02:45 PM
  #18  
Journier's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
thanks for the info guys!! you are really helpin me out here!

thanks :")
Reply
Old Nov 24, 2004 | 02:36 AM
  #19  
Ripper406's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area, California
Hey forum,
Im new to Cummins power, could someone explain to me all these numbers mean? 215 pump? Plate? GSK?
Reply
Old Nov 24, 2004 | 03:42 AM
  #20  
Captain's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 904
Likes: 0
From: Bucks county PA
So as I'm speeding down the road in the back of a.... ford explorer I feel compeled to give everyone my 2 cents on this. I bought a 98 12valve truck because I think there the best pump out of all the 2nd gens. The 98.5 though is a 24valve and thusly computer controlled. I wanted all mechanical. So I wanted 12. Anyway the 98 12v pump has big delivery valves too 180 some I think. Big enough for 500hp I would think. 370 injectors go on sale at various reputable places for about 325$. You'll also need a 4 or 5inch exhaust. they run anywhere from 300$ to more money then your truck is worth. Gauges are a must. And a nice turbo. In my truck I was considering one of those piers turbos hx45 or whatever that he has. a #10 fuel plate and 370 injectors. I understand that setup is good for low-mid 400's hp. If you want more get a lower number fuel plate. The reason I went with that was because I dont need to break more stuff then nessasry. That setup shouldnt blow a head gasket. I should break the imput shaft on the transmition or twist up anything else important. You will need a clutch though. Probably a south bend con fe 13" conversion. I think there good too 500-550hp or something. after that I think you have to get a duel disc? either way thats whats stopping me right now. that cluctch is about 1400$ or so. If you get a older pump with less hp I think you just need injectors and some big delivery valves. also a 3k rpm goviner spring kit would be good. I didnt get the 4k because that makes me nervious. its not just the motor spinning that fast its all your accessories like alternator compressor and power steering. I'm sure im forgetting to say alot that I ment to. hope it helps some

chris
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mrbrownmegacab
Off Road / 4x4
17
Mar 29, 2010 07:14 AM
roughstock
12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
5
Aug 10, 2008 11:51 AM
smokeyram
2nd Gen. Dodge Ram - No Drivetrain
3
Feb 27, 2008 09:29 AM
Dodgezilla
Towing and Hauling / RV
11
Dec 12, 2007 01:01 PM
04ctd
3rd Generation Ram - Non Drivetrain - All Years
11
Jan 13, 2007 09:22 AM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:35 PM.