Hello all, my email has been flooded with pm messages, I apologize for not getting back to anyone promptly as i have just moved from Texas to Laramie, Wyoming to attend Wyotech for diesel, in doing so i had to get a new computer and havent had time to get on much with classes starting anyways. the holset he351vgt stock on 6.7L cummins in 07.5+ dodge diesels, liquid cooled, electronically controlled, amazing technology simply amazing

the 6.7L exhaust manifold will bolt to a 5.9 head, so i was told, in my case i couldnt afford this manifold, i traded my stock hx35w turbo for the VGT since i was running an hx40 on my truck at the time, the stocker was just going to waste in the back yard... I had a 3 piece manifold bolted up with the hx40 and i didnt want to ruin it and the turbo flange on the vgt is bigger with a single port inlet unlike 89-02 turbos so i ground out the separator between the ports on the stock manifold so i heated the flanges red hot with torch and ran 5 good beads around the turbo/manifold connection and let them cool as one piece, removed the watercooled/ electronic housing (it will hit your shock bolt) bolted right up adapted some aftercooler piping and welded up a downpipe, i made my own center console a while back and i got a boat throttle hooked to the gearing on the vgt (where the little electric motor used to be) and ran the cable under the truck and thru the floor by the shifter...

its on my 97 in my sig... stock everything, pump adjusted only

in neutral revving to 2500ish with the turbo about half closed off it will spool 12-15psi,
if you close it off all the way egt's run about 650ish for fast warm up thats at idle, which on my truck is about 600rpm, with vanes closed off the truck will not rev above 1500 it just starts blowing smoke...
vanes wide open it will not spool the turbo until about 23-2400
about 3/4 is where i keep it driving, truck really takes off right with the torque curve
great all around turbo for these trucks




i will post pics asap though i have bigger things on my mind now, i grenaded my transmission friday night along with clutch driveshaft and diminishing rear end and its starting to snow here so im not sure when ill try to get pics this weekend appreciate yalls patience

 

Thanks for the info. I suspect mine won't be the only reply. Just so I understand, the stock 6.7 exhaust manifold could bolt up, but another solution (aftergrinding the dividers) is to weld the VGT to a stock 12v manifold,,,,,yes?

How does the VGT work as an exhaust brake when in the totally closed position? I'd think 60lb. exhaust springs would be required.

Also, good luck with school and getting the truck back up and running.

RR

 

I was thinking the 60# springs would be required to. All the aftermarket exhaust brakes i've seen seem to require them. I hope to get started on my he351ve swap this weekend, I'll be using an air operated cylinder driven by boost pressure to actuate the valve and a locking throttle cable and some sort of pivoting arm to allow exhaust brake operation, still have some designing to do

 

... the only thing i can hear that would concern valve springs is when you close it all the way off and try to rev it, starts pouring the black moke and clattering like misfiring real loud like when your coasting with exhaust brake on you need to be coasting and not on the gas or im sure somethings gonna go wrong wrong

 

i might sell this setup to someone that wants it, im in the middle of buying an hx50 at the moment, i already have an hx40 had it on my truck for about a month before i got this vgt

 

hello all... srry for the wait ive been very bust lately first time i been on the computer in 2 months... well i have pictures up now...
i know there is a guy on this forum with a first gen with the VGT and he probably did it right with his adaptor to the manifold but im a redneck and i didnt wanna mess with my 3pc so i welded it to a stocker...






im putting a short vid up on youtube ill post the link for that as well...

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCwvo6Mk100

 

you've made alot more progress then I have one this. It's hard to tell from the pics, how much clearance is there around the shock tower and do you have the center section straight up and down. thanks looks good.

 

no the electronics are removed and if you look close a chunk of the housing has been cut and the shock bold has been cut for clearance...

 

Has any found a spring that would let the lever controlling the vanes actuate right? I'd imagine a wastegate would be in order, but could a guy get this to work the way it should (almost) with a spring? As I understand it drive pressure would blow it open if there was nothing attached to where the electronic servo originally did. So if right length and tension spring were on, then it would be about perfect. Where is this spring???

 

I'm running a couple springs I found on the shop floor and they work fine. Did have to experiment with a few different ones. I really like the charger now that I've had some time to dial it all in.

 

Any chance you could post a picture of your springs and how you have them arranged/attached to give the rest of us that are scratching our heads someplace to start? It would really, REAALLLY be appreciated.