My buddy has a 1996 1500 Ram 2wd. I replaced the pads but one of the rotors needs to be replaced (it's beyond turning). I think I'm gonna have to remove the bearings and what not to slide the rotor off but I just wanna make sure I run it through yall before I start ripping things apart that I don't need to. Thanks for the help yall.

 

Been a while...but sounds about right to me. Anyone correct me if i'm not remembering correcly...tend to forget things easily!

 

Obviously the caliper needs to come off. I dont ahve a 1/2 tonner but typically one of 2 ways it comes apart. #1 remove the caliper nad the rotor will basically just come right off, the lugs hold it in place on the hub. #2 remove the caliper,set out of way on crate or ?? not hanging by brake line. Remove center cap on hub, remove cotter pin,nut,washer while kinda holding the rotor/hub on the spindle then pull it right off the spindle and be prepared for the outer bearing to fall in your lap or the dirt depending on where your working. If this is the case then the studs will have to be pressed out then the rotor/hub will seperate. Get your new rotor and do your selves a favor by having it turned or at least checked. EVERY rotor and drum we have purchased regardless of where it came from was warped or out of round.
After turning reassembly by placing rotor/hub together and pressing the studs back in. Do not use the lug nuts to pull them in, If they dont come all the way a wheel will come loose eventually. Ive driven them in with a BIG punch if nothing else is avaliable but a press is better. Clean/repack the bearings, install a NEW grease seal in back and go to town. Might have to get the tightening specs for the bearing preload. Personally I just set them so there is the slightest of play, maybe 10th max witha a dial indicator is no specs are avaliable.
have fun. BTW that will be $59.95 please

 

On the Dodge, its the #2 way described by Apache. A wire clothes hanger is a real easy way to hang the caliper out of the way, DONT let it hang by the brake lines.......
Also, you may have to gently "beat" teh rotor off the spindle depending on how well its seated. There is a shoulder on teh spindle that the inner seal/bearing rest on that they tend to stick to. Its easier if you have both front wheels on jackstands where you can turn the steering wheel to get behind the rotor.
I was taught to tighten the spindle nut down to just where is made the rotor hard to turn( helps seat the bearings) and then back it off a turn and a half.
Should be almost no vertical play in the rotor . And be sure to use a new cotter pin in teh spindle nut, dont reuse the old one.

 

On the 2wd's the hub and rotor are all one piece. So just remove the caliper, remove the dust cover from the hub,pull the cotter pin, remove the nut keeper,remove the nut, give the rotor a little tug and the outer bearing and thrust washer will fall out in your hand.Now just pull the whole thing off the spindle the inner bearing will stay inside with the rear seal.Put the rotor on a clean flat surface and using a brass or wood punch tap on the rear bearing to drive out the rear seal. Your new rotor should come with the bearing races installed if not you can either get new ones or drive out the old ones with a brass punch.Clean and repack your bearings and reinstall in reverse order. Might as well get a new seal as they are cheap. I usually snug up the nut while turning the rotor andthen back off until rotor turns freely.

 

Just a suggestion that will cost you $$$ replace the calipers at the same time!!

Sorry been there done that!! The calipers are the most likely culprit in rotor warpage! Spend more now and do not do it twice!

Mark my words as you will do it again within a year if you do not!

Rick

 

Thanks for the help guys. The only reason we are replacing it is because he let the pads go to long and it wore the pad to the backing and ground the rotor. Once again, thanks for the help yall.