pickupman96

I am finally sick of the 2 1/2 week rifle season for deer in this area, so i think its time that I learned how to shoot a bow. Now I know nothing about bows. I did figure out how to find my draw length though. Now my question is what is my best bet for a bow to learn on. Thanks for the help.

Nick02Ram

Hey, be happy you get a rifle season, lol. We can only use shotguns, and it lasts a week and a half, although they recently added an extra weekend. But bow goes from now till the end of Jan.

Best thing to do is go into a shop, some place like Bass Pro, or Cabelas. Both of those usually have indoor ranges, and really good guys. Tell em you are a beginner, and they will letya shoot and see what ya like. (It's also a free lesson). I've been shooting a $300 Fred Bear for a few years, and I like it. It's not one of the parellel limb design, but it works. I wouldn't get anything real fancy to start off with, IMO a bow is a bow. It's more in the person than the bow. I bought mine as a kit, comes with an arrow rest, sight, and quiver. I've seen some PSE setups that are pretty nice to start with. Let me warn ya, it's addictive. Not long after I got mine I was adding vibration dampners, new sights, a drop-away rest. And practicing a lot really helps. I shoot all summer long.

pickupman96

I am going to try to get to cabelas. there are not alot of shops around here. I sure hope its addictive. I need something to do with all my free time seeing I dont have any real money for the truck

ShouldBFishin

Nick02Ram's right... it is highly addictive. As far as which bow to get, that's really a personal preference. When I was looking for my first bow, I tried a few at Cabelas, but found a smaller archery shop (Archery Country in St. Cloud, MN) that carried both new and used bows. Must have stopped in there a dozen times, each time I would try a couple different brands but kept going back to the Mathews Drenalin because it just "felt" good in my hands and seemed to be more forgiving than some of the others. I spent more than I was planning (that's probably why I had to go back so many times) but after 3+ years I still have no regrets on the choice.

Now might be a busy time of the year for them, but a good shop will take the time to help you out, measure you for draw length, give you tips (almost like free lessons), answer any questions that you may have and let you try them out on the spot.

I would highly recommend a drop away rest, a decent stabilizer and a good release (try a few of these too) with a buckle rather than velcrow right from the start.

Bottom line - do try a few different bows before you buy. See if you can find an archery shop that carries used bows (my preference would be a Mathews Switchback or Drenalin). Have them agree to paper tune the bow as part of the deal. Then practice, practice practice...

Welcome to your new addiction

Off topic, but did you hear about the 31 point non-typical that was taken in WI? If you haven't you gotta see this monster (http://www.postcrescent.com/article/...534/1003/APC01).

Slice

just wait till you get heavly involved with it. you think your truck toys were expensive.. ha my Matthews DXT cost over 1200... but find a Bow shop they offer the best bang for the buck cabelas not so much... its easier than you think

Fronty Owner

On the release issue, I grew up with the old T handles. they feel better to me than those new fangled wrist strap releases.

On a side related note. A couple things to remember with a bow.
1. NO arrow is faster than a deer.
2. More draw weight always equate to more power.

txarrowhunter

I'm a dedicated bow hunter, but I don't use the same bow every year. I change bows, brands, or just upgrade to newer year each summer. Only thing in my mind when I'm in the field is a good shot whether a hog, varmint or a buck, I also like to believe my arrow is faster than what I'm shooting at as long as it's standing still. I'm shooting the new iceman diamond/bowtech. Great bow but my other choice was a pse madness. If you can get your hands on a Fred bear package that would be a great start, I do recommend 65# or 70#

Fronty Owner

once you try a few modern bows and find one you like go home and practice for a couple weeks. then go back and try a recurve.

Nick02Ram

A guy at work was tellin me about it. He said they seemed a little generous counting points, but I just took a loot at it, and who cares, the thing is enormous

COUNTRYBOY

I like my Bowtech's, I have the Tomkat and the Admiral real close to the Diamond Iceman mentioned above. They don't make the Tomkat anymore, but the Sniper replaced it. The Admiral isn't the fastest bow on the market like the Mathew's "Monster"@ 360+ feet per second "FPS", "BUT" that bow has more wirst Tq than I'd ever want in a bow... Anyway, a few things about bow hunting....

1st. You have to do your homework and know where the animals are coming through.

2nd. You must be patent, my uncle has no patence and he just pushes the animals away, drives me crazy... With the 6X6 elk I got this year I sat for 4 hours with him just 300 yards away buggling, I knew he was going to come by me because I put myself between the wallow and springs and him. I love bow hunting, there's no better rush than when you have a animal come in 40 yards from you and you draw back and release, OMG what a rush.... I rifle hunt too, but thats just because my dad and brother think shooting something with a sharp stick is stupid. Come November my Winchester Model 70 .270 will be locked and loaded, but I never get the rush I get with my bow....

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=35726133

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=35746000