Lawn Mower Oil
10-30 will probably foam to beat all get out. Use the 30 . These little motors get some hard use. Personally I only use Amsoil, but then again we are way out of the 6 bucks a gallon mark there.
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Last season, I switched to Briggs & Stratton synthetic 5W-30 for my lawn tractor. Compared to generic SAE 30 lawn tractor oil, this stuff stayed extremely clean all season. I will use the synthetic Briggs & Stratton oil again this year.
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...spx?pid=100074
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...spx?pid=100074
The reason a straight 30W is spec'd instead of a multi grade is that a small engine warms up so fast that there almost no such thing as a "cold start". You don't need the multigrade's superior viscosity index.
So, you use a straight 30w because you get more shear stability since there's a LOT of shearing in a small engine and they tend not to get the regular attention they need as far as oil changes.
I've switched to a 15w-40 in all my mowers and such and I like it.
I even tried a 0w-20 M1 once just to see how it went. The mower survived just fine, and started super easy. It vibrated more, though.
So, you use a straight 30w because you get more shear stability since there's a LOT of shearing in a small engine and they tend not to get the regular attention they need as far as oil changes.
I've switched to a 15w-40 in all my mowers and such and I like it.
I even tried a 0w-20 M1 once just to see how it went. The mower survived just fine, and started super easy. It vibrated more, though.
FWIW...I always run Castrol 30w in all my lawn mowers, generator etc. Just changed them all this past weekend........for this season.
But on Motorcycles and ATVS I thought you were supposed to run special oil designed for them by the manufacturers that also protected the transmission etc.
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FWIW...I always run Castrol 30w in all my lawn mowers, generator etc. Just changed them all this past weekend........for this season.
But on Motorcycles and ATVS I thought you were supposed to run special oil designed for them by the manufacturers that also protected the transmission etc.
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But on Motorcycles and ATVS I thought you were supposed to run special oil designed for them by the manufacturers that also protected the transmission etc.
..
We have a 1982 and a 1985 Honda Big Red that's still going strong. Nothing but Rotella in the sump. Also using Rotella in my 1998 Kawasaki Prairie 300 4x4.
MikeyB
Briggs, for one, now recommends synthetic 5W-30 for their motors. This has been my choice for about 10 years on small engines. I have a $99 special with a Tecumseh that just keeps running like new on a lawnmower that sees a lot of abuse (dirt, rocks, etc). I'm finally dumping it for a re-engined commercial Snapper, it'll be a good second or trim mower for someone.
Oil almost never blackens when you use a quality brand, synthetic formula, in the right weight/viscosity, IMO.
More important: Clean air filters.
Oil almost never blackens when you use a quality brand, synthetic formula, in the right weight/viscosity, IMO.
More important: Clean air filters.



I've always just used straight 30w whatever in my mower.
