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Lawn Mower Oil

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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 08:40 PM
  #1  
RSOPNCO1's Avatar
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From: Texarkana, TX
Question Lawn Mower Oil

What is the difference between 30 sae and 10-30 and is 10-30 ok to use in lawnmower. Figured it would be b/c it has a 30 on it. $7 a gallon vs $6/qt.
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 08:52 PM
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10-30 will probably foam to beat all get out. Use the 30 . These little motors get some hard use. Personally I only use Amsoil, but then again we are way out of the 6 bucks a gallon mark there.
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 10:25 PM
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I use 10W-30 in all my small motors. I've never had a problem and it does not foam a bit.
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 10:31 PM
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From: Winchester, TN
Ok I'm one of the brainwashed amsoil users around here too but in a lawn mower? I've always just used straight 30w whatever in my mower.
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 02:38 AM
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I'd just use whatever the maker of the mower calls for.

Some call for 30 weight and some call for 10W-30...
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 05:48 AM
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i use 15-40 diesel oil in all of my toys. no problems in 12-15 yrs.
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 07:13 AM
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I use 15w-40 Rotella in all my yard equipment and ATVs. My Honda lawn mower is 19 years old and still going strong.

MikeyB
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 08:37 AM
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If it calls for 30w use it there isn't as much detergents in 30w as 10-30w. 30w helps keep the lifters pumped up
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 09:06 AM
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Last season, I switched to Briggs & Stratton synthetic 5W-30 for my lawn tractor. Compared to generic SAE 30 lawn tractor oil, this stuff stayed extremely clean all season. I will use the synthetic Briggs & Stratton oil again this year.
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...spx?pid=100074
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 10:15 AM
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From: Cummins Technical Center, IN
The reason a straight 30W is spec'd instead of a multi grade is that a small engine warms up so fast that there almost no such thing as a "cold start". You don't need the multigrade's superior viscosity index.

So, you use a straight 30w because you get more shear stability since there's a LOT of shearing in a small engine and they tend not to get the regular attention they need as far as oil changes.

I've switched to a 15w-40 in all my mowers and such and I like it.

I even tried a 0w-20 M1 once just to see how it went. The mower survived just fine, and started super easy. It vibrated more, though.
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 10:49 AM
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From: Delco PA
almost all new lawn mowers use 10-30w
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 01:16 PM
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From: McKinney, TX
Originally Posted by MikeyB
I use 15w-40 Rotella in all my yard equipment and ATVs. My Honda lawn mower is 19 years old and still going strong.

MikeyB


FWIW...I always run Castrol 30w in all my lawn mowers, generator etc. Just changed them all this past weekend........for this season.

But on Motorcycles and ATVS I thought you were supposed to run special oil designed for them by the manufacturers that also protected the transmission etc.

..
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 03:02 PM
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From: Tomball, Texas
Originally Posted by TexasCTD
FWIW...I always run Castrol 30w in all my lawn mowers, generator etc. Just changed them all this past weekend........for this season.

But on Motorcycles and ATVS I thought you were supposed to run special oil designed for them by the manufacturers that also protected the transmission etc.

..
Motorcycle oils are really a gimmick. Nothing more than a HD oil like we use in diesels. Only thing to watch out for is oils containing moly when used with wet clutches.

We have a 1982 and a 1985 Honda Big Red that's still going strong. Nothing but Rotella in the sump. Also using Rotella in my 1998 Kawasaki Prairie 300 4x4.

MikeyB
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 05:35 PM
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Good post from Hohn.

Bottom line, use what the engine maker calls for or take your chances.
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 09:04 PM
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Briggs, for one, now recommends synthetic 5W-30 for their motors. This has been my choice for about 10 years on small engines. I have a $99 special with a Tecumseh that just keeps running like new on a lawnmower that sees a lot of abuse (dirt, rocks, etc). I'm finally dumping it for a re-engined commercial Snapper, it'll be a good second or trim mower for someone.

Oil almost never blackens when you use a quality brand, synthetic formula, in the right weight/viscosity, IMO.

More important: Clean air filters.
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