this fence is about ~5 years old.

it has agricultural 6x6x8 (true 6x6) corner posts, so i could get freaky big with attaching stuff to them.

and 2x6 runners (for strength) and a diagonal brace.

i will get a picture of the back in the day light tomorrow

basically, the wood screws are twisting and turning, and letting the gate sag. will longer screws do better?

I really don't know enough about this stuff. pretty good with rightie tightie leftie loosie, but wood and me don't get along. a carpenter, i ain't

you can see on the right hand side, it has dropped alot, and by the overlap in the center.

 

When dad rebuilt the big fence he also upgraded the big gates too. They're similar to yours. One of the things he did was run a turn buckle and cable on the diagonal to help support the weight. Made a huge difference.

I'm trying to remember the hinge setup on his gates. Soon as I think of it Ill post back.

 

I'm not an expert either, but if it was mine, I would go with the diagonal cable and turnbuckle too. Also I would look at installing a third hinge halfway between the original two, to help carry the load.

I've seen some large chainlink gates that had a little wheel on the bottom of the gate (on the latch end of the gate), so the hinges wouldn't be carrying all the load. Not sure if it would work in your case, especially if the ground under the gate's arc isn't smooth, but I thought I'd throw it out there.

 

if you want to keep the double swing i would keep a similar design except beef up the bracing with a gate kit brackets or as already mentioned the cable/turnbuckle to keep everything square. with the double swing like that you could add the wheels so it can roll when swinging and is always supported - or, you could make a pin system to support the gate when either open or closed.

alternatively you could scrap that swinging design and make a slider gate. you basically attach 2 lengths of pipe to one side of the fence - one near the top, one near the bottom running parallel with each other, and about 2' longer than the gate opening itself. the gate the gets mounted with 2 wheels that match the concave/arc of the pipe. these wheels then support the gate and allow the gate to roll along the pipe all the while staying neat and tidy without the necessity to keep room for the swing. also, along with the rollers for the pipe, the gate would need a wheel at the bottom opening corner to take/support the weight.

 

here check this pic.

this will give you an idea of what i was trying to describe with the rolling gate. on the left hand side you can see two pipes . . . on the opposite side of the gate would be two of the rollers to match the arc of the pipe. you can also see the support wheel on the lower right hand side . ..

 

A turnbuckle and cable will help however your problem relies on the hardware. The hinges your using aren't up to the task. The should be at least 3 hinges. You can see the stress on the hinge in the picture. Also, make sure you use bolts instead of lag screws.

 

Very true indeed, not near enough, and poor quality hinges.

I always weigh the gates, then double the hinges based on the load capacity listed on it. Another thing you can do is put a drop wheel or stand for each gat at the center. That way the hinges are only holing the gate while it is being opened or closed.

Measure each diagonally to check for square, but before you adjust, make sure the gates were not built to fit the opening. Wont do you much good to have good square gates in a not so square opening.

I don't particularly care for the gate hardware kits. I usually make my own out of cable, all-thread and turnbuckles. Snap a chalk line from the top hinge corner, to the bottom strike corner and drill holes right in the middle of the framing. all thread at each corner with a big honkin washer to hold the nut and the turnbuckle wherever it is easy to get to. The gate tensioners I have seen at the big boxes apply to the outside of the gate and will eventually cause it to twist. By putting the supports through the center, it is not guaranteed not to, but less likely.

But it you put a wheel or stand in the center for each gate, there is no need for the tensioning as the gate is at rest. Your hardware will last longer as well.

 

I just had an automated 14' RV gate installed at my place a couple weeks ago.

here is the section of wall they removed


Here are the end posts installed. 5"x5"x1/4" wall 10 foot long posts. burried 4.5 feet in the ground with concrete and the temp panel installed to keep things private until the concrete set up and the main gate installed


Here is the front of the gate. 1 piece and swings inward via an electric actuator, solar panel keeps the battery charged with operator


you can see on the back side, entire frame work of the gate is 2" steel with pretty hefty greasable hinges with the adjustable cable to keep things square.


14 seconds from closed to open and folds right up to the wall (about a foot from the wall).

 

3-4 hinges, thru bolted.

Diagonal brace on gate from bottom hinge corner to top opposite corner. Diagonal brace from bottom hinge post, back to top of fence post both outer sides.

 

Why not use a 5-panel galvanized ranch Panel gate and attach the fence pickets to that? I have one thats been good to go for about 10 years. The panels are available in many lengths, mine is a 10' gate. Simple galvenized fence screws work great for picket attachment. Here is a link for what I'm referring to. The gate itself is extremely lightweight and very strong. http://www.hutchison-inc.com/html/lvst_equ/index.php

 

Silverram03 has a good suggestion.

You could also mount a wheel to the outer edge to carry the weight on the existing set up.

 

I have the wheels, bought them long ago, but could not figure out how to mount them without adding a lot of weight.

i will check on the panels, that would make a lighter/stronger frame than the 2x6 runners and the 2x8 diagonal brace I have on there now.

where would I buy massive hinges?
these we have came from a specialty store, i don't think Lowes had any that big.

i try to stay away from Tractor Supply, that place has more Chinese crap than Wal-mart.


edit:
a buddy built this fence, and he built one for everyone else we knew.
went to a buddy's house to get a burn barrel, it was inside his walk gate, and that gate was tight & crisp with the above hardware on it.

so the hardware is good, i think i just have too much weight, and, from the above comments, should have had a third hinge in the middle. oh well


found some hinges, they are crazy $$
Pintie Size w x h Strap Length SKU Price Qty Unit
1-3/4 x 8 19 x 2-1/2 x 1/4 886000 $167.00
http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinges...ty+Strap+Hinge

 

Hey John!!

we COULD tell the FBI you have something illegal going on back there, BOOM no more worry about paying for hinges.....

no thanks needed.

panel gates are bacically one tube inside a larger tube for a huge hinge.

cheap version is keep what you have drill through and center bolt oh say 1 and half inch pipe to the swing panel and top and bottom 14 inch sections of 1 3/4 pipe to the fixed panels. a L stand is cool for support, pick turn and move if you don't want the wheel. but center support is the key.
heave to!
aye aye master chief

 

i got two dogs back there...one is ~115lbs...there's plenty of "pre laid" landmines back there!!

not cheap so much as lazy, don't to have to re-enja-muh-neer this whole shebang again in a few years, hey, do you guys need a VACATION spot for the winter? I could trade light repairs for 3 hots & a cot!!

i think the pipe & hanger deal is better than $150~200 each for hinges.

keep the ideas coming, somebody on DTR always knows how to fix big boy toys.

 

yup, hear ya on the "oh maaaaannnnnn, I hafta do this but i don't wanna"
(crack on tranny case) and yeah- hubby is so bored from retirement he is driving me nuts.

remember the three hinges/support thing though- key to inja ma neering

whatever way you decide.

should train the big dog to build stuff......lol